Maybe your steps/mm on the Y are off and it isn't moving far enough. Try changing your second G1 to Y-400 or more and see what happens. If it works, make sure the steps are correct or the possibility that you have more travel than you think.
One last thing would be to make sure there isn't any binding and you have the current turned up enough in your config.g.
Are you talking about the kit they sell?
https://www.think3dprint3d.com/3D-Printer-Kits/Kossel-XLplus-3dPrinter-Kit
Or are you going to make it yourself?
@3mm I was kind of at a loss too when I purchased my Smart Effector. Never owned a single E3D product. What I purchased that worked for me (from Filastruder) was:
Cartridge Style Upgrade/Parts that includes the Block, Thermistor and sock.
E3D heat-break v6 1.75mm version.
I can't remember if I bought the heater cartridge at the time or not, but I think I just reused my old one. I was at the point of switching from 12V to 24V too.
I already owned some nozzles that I knew would fit, but if you don't think you do, it might be another thing you need to add.
It has been a while since I have seen It discussed, but do you have M82 or M83 in the start of your .gcode.
Dang, what brand did you get? The ones I bought were Qunqi, cheapest I could find.
I think he might have added one too many zeros.
Whatever you used to make the spacers, you would have a little wiggle room, just like you would with T-nuts in an aluminum extrusion. The linear rail would be stiff enough to help align everything vertically if you loosely assembled the spacers first.
Even with the best made extrusions, you are not guaranteed to not have a slight bend/twist in them.
I have been using my IR with hairspray on my glass bed for almost a year now without any issues.
Can't figure out how to edit my posts, but needing to move the carriages closer will really depend on how your setup is now.
If I was on my other computer I could draw you a better picture, but hopefully you get the idea.
Make sure you read the release notes between 1.18 and whatever you are using now. Might need to reverse the direction of the motors in config.g. One big thing that caught a lot of people is the need to remove the deploy and retract probe folders if not using a retracting probe.
@totalitarian What kind of printer do you have? I think an endstop switch located on the opposite end of your homing area could activate a relay to turn on a fan. Add a move to hit the endstop in your end script. Should work for everything but a delta.
I could see some spacers made from acrylic and a laser cutter. Would you have the room to move the carriages ~15mm closer to the bed?
Why not just put the "move out of the way" commands in your end script?
What kind of connectors are you using for the power wires at the Duet? Do you have a voltmeter to confirm that the voltages the Duet is reporting is correct?
Post what size and wattage your bed heater is and we could recommend a PSU.
My first thought is a power supply issue.
If you have nothing better to do, you could try twisting the belt a half turn so the smooth side of the belt rides on the smoothness of the idler pulley. Might have to re-tension afterwards.
You'll need to copy and paste the code to get it to repeat.
