Posts made by Notepad

@bernardomattiucci

Interesting that you are saying your filament gets stuck. What type of filament are you using. I find Matte and Silk materials tend to be the most likely to clog over time.
Would it be also possible for you to show your Config.g so I can see what motor current you have your hemera set to? It could be the amperage is too high and its heating up the motor enough to soften the filament in the cold side.

@bernardomattiucci As Jay has said you would want to remove the checkbox in your slicer.

For reference (as the firmware retraction values are quite low) the Hemera retraction speeds should be between 40-70mm/s and a 0.8-1.2mm distance.
The faster your printers travel moves, the less retraction distance you need as there is less opportunity for the material to ooze

@Ce72 "Fail Deadly" is simply just the opposite of "Fail Safe". A failsafe relay would open the circuit stopping power from transferring. These SSR style relays all tend to faildeadly if they get too hot. Normally these relays run quite cold, but if its getting towards the EOL, there is a chance its accidently keeping the power on for too long causing heat based pulsing, similar to BangBang z banding. This would explain your PID tuning inaccuracies.
Its very unlikely as these relays are pretty robust, But I have had 2 personally die on me even when they are joined with the officially recommended W70 Passive Heatsink.

@Ce72 There is a possibility it could be the relay controlling the heater bed. If its an AC relay, they do tend to fail deadly if they get to hot

You might be happy to know you can up the mesh points to 900. I use a 30x30 grid (specifically because I use the Duet Scanning Probe) with no issues.

@Ce72 Some things come to mind seeing this. Because the slicer seems to have an impact on the visual artefact. it could be related to extrusion multiplier on a material basis. whilst the print settings might be the same, there might be small differences in the material settings for each slicer.

Its weird that the woodgrain test appears to be normal and and then your next two prints have this weird artefact.
One noticeable difference between the woodgrain vs the two gray prints, is it looks like the grey prints are larger in XandY.
This does mean we cannot exclude the Z axis from this behaviour, as it could be a byproduct of the bed mesh compensation (though the chance of this is unlikely)

Unfortunately I couldn't tell from the photos of the grey prints if the angle of the banding changes when the model becomes slightly thinner. that would be a strong indication that the problem is extruder related instead of the motion system.

@Triet Which firmware version are you using. The new 3.6.beta4 firmware (findable in the beta firmware forum category) is absolutely fantastic as it has a new input shaping methodology, You may find this helps your issues.

@brian Yup, Orca works natively with Duet systems.
If you want to see how our start and end G-code works. look for Construct 1 or Construct 3D printers in the Orca printer menu and then you can copy across the code you need to get yours working

@Ce72 That is VERY interesting, I use HemeraXS's on multiple machines and have never seen that behaviour before. Just to double check, as your are using the HevORT printer, are you using the wobbleX decouplers?
I'm seeing two artefacts, one if the diagonal lines, the other looks like a repeated Z band patten.

@droftarts This might not be helpful, but some times back in beta2, I did notice if a Z-seam was placed on a corner which was filleted with a small radius, the chance for under extrusion directly after the seam was greatly increased. At the time I only assumed it was because my PA value and extruder settings was too aggressive, but it may be linked.

@droftarts unfortunately so. My only solution was to half the de-retraction amount knowing it would double itself

It might be just coincidence, but I remember having a similar issues all the way back in 3.5.0 and never found a fix for it
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/35544/resume-g-activating-twice-with-fw3-5

@DaveA Quick question, did you remember to update your PanelDue firmware? I remember there was a possible change where the PanelDue could stop connection to DWC.

@T3P3Tony Testing all done (sorry about the delay)
Works completely fine on Duet2 and Duet3mini. no issues with the bed at all

@Alva Looks like it might be because your jerk value on your Z axis might be too low. If you have a bed mesh, what can happen is because the bed cant keep up with the required move, it'll slow the whole machine down to keep up with the Z axis.
Currently its

M566 Z12

You may want to try something like

M556 Z160

Your accelerations also seem quite low
You may want to try

M201 Z200

@T3P3Tony Your right, I forgot my bias! I tend to lean towards customer interactions when replacing the wires instead of hobbyist/makers. Soldering XT30s is certainly harder than crimping.
If the tiny JST ZHs are replaced with something bigger then it would already be a huge improvement. Crimping such small crimps is both a pain.

How easy would it be to have both a XT30(2+2) header on the distribution board as well as JSTs? Something similar to the 6HC where it has the RJ11 port and the AUX_CAN JST right next to it? It might give a bit of flexibility to which approach a user wants to use.

@T3P3Tony Yup. most of the cables I buy tend to be double ended. plus the cable being double ended reduces the risk (albeit very very small risk) of accidently wiring the cable wrong. I wouldn't say its a big improvement, and I could possibly argue its not an improvement at all. but having a single premade cable would look neater and be easier to just plug and play than 4 individual wires exiting a one sided XT30(2+2)
That and twisting the data pairs of individual wires by hand is an absolute ball ache.

The multi tool projects I am currently working on
Tool changer with 2 heads
Filament changer with 4, 6 and 12 bays
MISO 2,3,4 & 6 input 1 output = #x extruder motors on one extruder carriage

What would be nice would be if the distro board could take the same XT30 2+2 so I don't need to splice power separately into the cable, or depending on the cable having to cut the other end off (if it has XT30 2+2 on both sides).

It might be nice to have the distro board being modular, so you can stack the boards if you need to add more ports without the mess of manually daisy chaining multiple together.

@T3P3Tony I will test these first opportunity I can. Current eta is Monday

+1 here, Those encoders are VERY nice. and support would be sweet. Not sure what complications there might be however if there are firmware limitations