I ordered this when I just replaced mine. Worth it.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/0451320610/WM16121-ND/6208008

Mouser also has a higher end one:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/245132-0610?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsB9HsreUc%252biT1kJrdVkr5yWzvQ3Oh8lVY%3D

And both of them sell just the connectors if you want one. Microfit Molex 3.0 6 circuit

@paboman TBH I dunno that this is best way to do it but I basically took off the jumpers(required to remove for 4 wires) and just made a 4 wire connector to those pins on the daughter board. As for the wires otherwise, do you have a Smart Effector?

@klcjr89 Do you still wire the same? Need a diode for it?

@klcjr89 Nice, may grab one of those and use the other pump on one of my lesser used printers.

The digikey are perfect, the cable quality itself is really nice for the fast/constant movements of the delta effector so I'm really loving it, looks nice too. I just had way too much issue crimping the cat6 double wire and getting it to fit even though I have a good crimper. I've never really had that problem before. Also the cable fits a lot better(clips in and out with no pressure)

Mines 225- but when I look around the bed(which is set to build volume 450x450y and 225 origin offset I can move the piece around to like x300? I would think I would want to max out at 225? Guess that's a S3d bug I've never noticed.

Would this be valid?

G02 X220Y0 I0J-220.0

@blt3dp said in Nozzle wipe?:

I couldn't get G2/G3 to work.

Let's start with what a Delta thinks is clockwise vs counter clockwise.
What does it, consider what lets say when looking down at the print bed from the top

We know 0,0 is in the center
-X is to the left, +X is to the right
-Y is to the front, +Y is to the back

My assumption is that for clockwise, it would go: back right quadrant, front right quadrant, front left quadrant, back left quadrant.

But I couldn't get a movement with G2 for clockwise, G2 for counter-clockwise did move from right to left along the front of the bed.

But I kept getting that the movement was out of the printers print area

Running on a Delta with a 284 mm printable area.

So in a CAD drawing, I drew a circle smaller than the printable diameter of my bed. I drew a line from center to the circumference of the circle. I mirrored it and then measured their distances from the origin in X and Y.

Moved to the first position,
G1 X-15 Y-139.79 F1800

Tried to move to the opposite side along an arc,
G3 X15 Y-139.79 I0 J-140.59248 F1800
It kept giving missing I or J parameter

I tried G3 X15 Y-139.79 R140.59248 F1800 and got missing
It kept giving missing I or J parameter

Then I tried
G3 X15 Y-139.79 I0 J140.59248 R140.59248 F1800
It moved, but didn't appear to complete the arc, position in X was something like 1.6

So I'm a little lost how it works, if you do G2 X15 Y15 should your head start at x15y15?

@themelle said in Nozzle wipe?:

@sethipus A curved wipe which is following the circular bed outline will of course require less build plate space than a straight line, which may cut off a relatively large portion of the circular bed.

Right - I know it's pretty insignificant I was mostly curious.(Also the fact that I don't have any code for a wipe on a delta anyway)

Does anyone happen to have a Nozzle wipe for deltas? I have a 17" bed and I'm a little unsure what exactly needs to happen for a curved wipe or if I should just simply go for a straight one?

@dc42 said in Weird issue with fan:

Check that the magnetic rods are installed with alternate N and S poles around the effector. That reduces the stray magnetic field.

Wow, flipping one single rod fixed it. That's crazy.

So only effects the fan LED. Yeah I did run it away and it ran, so you're saying I need to move the fan further? or is there a way to shield it?

Went back after a while and still starts to move then doesn't. So strange. Here is the fan I bought, the tach is not connected.

I did notice this the other day, what's it's role?

Tried both, no luck

Running Duet Wifi + Smart Effector. Was using berd air and swapped to a fan. I bought 5 brushless fans from digikey(24v). Put one on hot end cooling, worked, put one on the print cooling, didn't work, troubleshooting for a bit and thought the effecor was messed up, but tried another fan just as a test, that worked(left it on for a few mins too). Great, put the other fan on. Went to test again and it started to turn on, then didn't. Any ideas? It's getting 24V when I turn it on fully.(the pins on reverse side of connector)

Oh so I'm currently running my 12v fan at 24v? I have no buck converters connected and am using a 24v psu. Guess I'll do the first method since I do have a buck.