Posts made by kenblu24

@bearer I was worried about it activating too quickly, as it would be more sensitive in a smaller range of height. However, I've gone ahead and followed the other instructions in dozuki and everything else functions as expected.

@Phaedrux Yes, similar results.

The wordpress blog makes it sound like the sensor should be a little less sensitive, but the LED and probe readout both show that the IR sensor is really sensitive. When the LED is off, probe readout is zero. Move it down .01mm and the LED is flickering, and probe readout jumps around in the low 200s. Move it down another .01 and the LED is almost solid and the probe readout jumps between 970 and 1000. Is this expected behavior?

Duet WiFi 1.0, Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet 3.0 (2020-01-03b3), purchased an IR sensor from Filastruder a few days ago.

Bed is 3mm PEI from Amazon with matte black spray paint on the back.

So, did anything come of it? Do we now have a way to set a specific tool to off?

Nevermind, didn't refresh before posting this.

I'm aware that T0 will cause tool 0 to be active and heat to the set temp, and T-1 will set all tools to standby temp. In old versions of RRF-dc42, G10 P0 S-273.15 R-273.15 would not change the active/standby temperatures, but would turn tool 0 and its heaters off. I'm sure you can see the use in this, as I can turn off the heaters without changing the set temperatures. This behavior seems to be gone now, and running any negative temperatures in a G10 command just sets the active or standby temp to zero. This means a lot of tap-tap-tapping on the paneldue to set the active temp to 240.

Is there a new way to turn a tool off without setting the active/standby temperatures to zero? Or is there some safety/UX risk that I can't see?

Scenario 1 solved: Tool 0 was not activated before the G10 command, so nothing happened.

As for Scenario 2, I've been using the macro workaround to solve that and I've updated to a new RRF with different G10 temperature behavior. So, I'm going to try it again now.

M116 tells RRF to wait until the previously set temperature is reached. M116 commands do not take the temperature as a parameter.

The behavior I expect in Scenario 1 is: G10 P0 S240 sets tool 0 to 240C active temp. M116 P0 tells the machine to wait until tool 0 reaches the 240C active temp.

This works if I run the commands in the console, but not in a print file. It's as if the M116 command isn't even there.

Scenario 1: I upload a file with this at the beginning. The M116 command doesn't make the printer stop and wait for the temperature to be reached.

G90
M82
M106 S0
M140 S55
M116 H0 S3
G10 P0 S240
M116 P0
T-1
T0	;Select tool 0

Scenario 2: At the end of a print, this gets run.

;set all heaters to standby
;M104 S0	;extruder heater off
M140 S-300	;heated bed heater off THIS ALSO DOESN'T WORK
G91	;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F600	;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 F600	;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G1 Z+0.5 X-20 Y20 F1200	;move the head out of the way a bit
G90	;absolute positioning
T0
G10 P0 R-300 S-300 ; THIS DOESN'T WORK
T-1	;De-select all tools
M98 P"heatersoff" ; THIS WORKS FOR SOME REASON
G1 F6000

heatersoff:

G10 P0 R-300 S-300
M140 S-300
M99

For some reason, using the console/macros for the M116 wait and G10 "off" commands works, but not if it's in a print file.

@resam darn #2 would have been awesome to have. Sorry, haven't been keeping up with the updates.

1 & 2, 6, 8, 3

Yes, you're almost certainly right, I suspected a loose terminal screw caused this. I re-tightened the screws after the first prints, no electrical issues for 4 months of use, then I stopped using it. Possible that after 6 months of disuse, the screws loosened on their own? This happened last week after I turned the machine on for the first time since March and set the bed and hotend to heat.

Either way, would you be comfortable with this soldering job? Or should I find/make a better wire mounting solution?

I've decided to solder on the power input wires after it burnt out.

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/6yz1z1/f_it_im_soldering_this_shit/

Now that is seriously weird… I haven't touched my printer in ages. Fired it up today, all seemed fine, then when I fired up the bed heater and hotend at the same time, the whole system turned off. I power-cycled everything, tried to turn on the bed heater (okay so far...) then the hotend, same result. Except this time, the duet wifi wouldn't turn on again and my externally powered fan kept running. The terminal block for power in just melted on the negative terminal. Duet owners, tighten your terminal blocks, even if your printer worked fine previously. I guess the terminals can loosen over time?

I don't know how I'm supposed to change nozzles or clear clogs. If I touch a metal wrench to the heaterblock, or take the hotend out and clamp it in a vice, the thermal protection trips. How do I temporarily turn off all heater thermal runaway stuff?

I'd rather not ask questions that have already been answered, so I try to search for it. Not so easy when I have to wait 30 seconds between searches.

No… I'm thinking of jury rigging a micro-usb 3.0 female header to the paneldue connector, not the micro-usb header that's already on the board. The 4 pins for the paneldue-to-duet would go with the normal usb 2 pins, and the SD card connection could be wired through the additional 5 pins that USB 3 adds. On the Duet side, I would do the same.

BTW, you can buy a cheap buck converter off of amazon or something and run it at 5v or whatever voltage you need. The cheap ones can run a few fans. This would also allow you to slightly overvolt the noctua if necessary (be careful).

Stupid idea… The paneldue connector uses 4 pins to connect to the duet wifi. 2 power, 2 data. Hey, that sounds like USB! I'm sure using a USB cable for the paneldue connection would work, but I'm curious - What would happen if I connected the paneldue to the USB on my computer, assuming the pins are wired to their correct USB counterparts?

Also, I noticed that the SD card connector has 5 pins. USB 3.0 has an additional 5 pins. I could have a single micro USB connector from the paneldue to the duet...

Noctua doesn't offer any 24v fans. All of the 24v "quiet" fans that I could see on Amazon in the US are super chunky, and I'm not too confident in picking from digi-key's catalogue.

I have the duet wifi, powered by a single 24v power supply. I'm running stuff like an IP cam and some LEDs off of a buck converter which lowers the voltage, but what about PWM outputs? How do I drive 12v fans (I can't find 24v variants of the fans I use) from the PWM outputs on the board?