Best posts made by jens55

@T3P3Tony, Thank you for keeping the forum. Discord has it's place but loosing the forum would be very bad IMHO. I agree with your two reasons to resist a move to Discord. I do utilize Discord but it is another tool and another approach at a community but should never be considered as a replacement.
Thank you for all your hard work!!!

Hope you are all having a very happy Christmas (or whatever else you celebrate). Stay safe !!

A special THANK YOU to everybody at the DUET team for your incredible service both in the design and especially the support !!

Steppers are current based devices. Although general specs usually list a voltage, it is irrelevant for your purposes. When a stepper driver switches on a phase, it measures the current that is drawn by the motor and limits that current.
Since the phases of a stepper motors are coils of wire, they have inductance (which is also listed in the spec's). When you switch on current to an inductor, the current flowing will not go to full current flow but rather the current increases at a given rate based on inductance and voltage. In order to increase speed, you need to be able to bring the current up to the rated current as fast as possible. Higher supply voltage will do that for you. A 12V power supply will supply the same rated current but will not do it as quickly.
Since a stepper motor works by switching on (and off) current in two windings, a higher voltage can substantially increase your speed.
If you ever look at the speed vs torque curve on a stepper, you will see that torque decreases very quickly as the motor speed goes up. This is simply because the drivers can not supply instant current and it takes longer for the current to reach the rated current if the voltage is lower. So, if you happen to trip over a graph plotting torque vs rpm at different supply voltages, you will see that a higher voltage power supply keeps the motor torque higher at a higher motor speed (because rated current is reached quicker).
A side note - the maximum torque a motor can develop is based on it's construction and current handling capability but there is a given maximum. Torque will basically remain at that maximum until the on/of/on switching of phases gets too fast (net current through the coils is reduced because it takes a finite time to go from no torque to full torque). A higher voltage power supply can force the current to rated current faster than a lower voltage power supply.

Not everything in that rambling reply might be correct but the overall gist is correct.

I just finished a test print with 100% success. Thanks for the suggestions.
I think the major problem was that I never removed the gap from when I was printing both the model and support with pla. I had completely forgotten about this.
I also printed slower although I don't actually know which of the many speeds is used - I suspect it was 26 mm/sec for petg and pla at 40 mm/sec.
The petg and pla stuck together to a limited degree ... enough to hold everything together yet not so much as to make support removal difficult.

I only have two words ...... Woooooo Hoooooo !

@alankilian, I REALLY appreciate any and all help and I apologize if you felt in any way slighted whatsoever. It was most certainly not my intent !!!
I got confused by the sentence "The point of continue is to skip an iteration."
DanS79 cleared it up and confirmed my interpretation by saying "To be clear it doesn't skip an iteration, it skips everything after the continue statement in the current iteration." IE it doesn't skip an iteration but goes back to the beginning of the loop.
Your example (thanks) did however clarify another point on the continue command that I was not aware of and hence my earlier confusion about sequential 'if' statements. The iteration happens over the 'while' loop and not as I had assumed over the 'if' loop. A very important bit of learning for me!
So to repeat, I apologize profusely and hope we are back on the same wavelength !

Moderators .... could we please lock this thread and stop with the negativity please ?

Wow, what a ride ..... I am happy (more like ecstatic) to report that after correcting my config.g (thanks again @gloomyandy ) the printer completed both a pressure advance test and a temperature tower without any complications whatsoever !
I did an M122 Bnn and nothing seemed out of the ordinary ... but then the prints came out just fine so there shouldn't have been anything odd to report.

If your offset values are zero, you are probing points that the Duet doesn't know about and you are then taking those probing points to adjust the mesh height. You are creating a bad height map and then applying it.
I don't understand how you can possibly expect any results but crap. You might as well work without any height map.
It's odd that you get stripes but before anyone can give you any suggestions about what is wrong, you MUST set things up properly !!!

I am happy to report that the issue seems fixed. The printer has been going for a bit over an hour and nothing untoward has happened (knock on wood). Hopefully it's because I replaced the connector rather than just having moved things a bit and re-establishing a good connection.
I can't believe that the first connector I replaced was the dud one - I fully expected to replace each and every connector with the last one being the problem ....

It amazes me how quickly things went from a bit of a jumpy temperature graph to a single heater fault to 8 or so faults on my last print.

BTW, for a 215C set point, the temperature fluctuates between roughly 214 to 216 with the vast majority being between 214.8 and 215.4.

Another method that is often used with CNC mills is to allow the switch to be bypassed. Instead of the carriage directly activating the end switch, the switch is mounted to the side and a lever is used to activate it. The carriage approaches the lever and depresses it which activates the end stop switch but there is no hard stop so if it takes a mm for the carriage to stop, nothing is harmed.
You could use a micro switch with a lever with a roller on the end and have a protrusion on the carriage that activates the lever without running into a stop.
Hard to explain but very simple and effective.

Maybe this can save somebody else a few hours of frustration ....
I have been printing with PETG on a particular printer and was having all kinds of print quality issues. The print was overall ok but the detail was terrible with lots of cleanup required. More cleanup than the usual PETG issues. Holes and voids were the biggest problems with the inside dimension being too small. Stringing seemed to be more than usual as well.
I tweaked all kinds of settings without success. In frustration, I finally took the filament spool off the printer and installed it on another printer and ran the same print - it came out beautiful.
I had eliminated the filament and most settings as being the culprit.
I decided to look at the nozzle in some detail thinking that maybe it had worn oversized or maybe there were other issues. When I unscrewed the nozzle, there was no initial 'break' as the nozzle started to turn which to me indicated that it wasn't totally tight. I cleaned out the nozzle (propane torch treatment) and re-installed. A new print resulted in the problem printer printing as clean as it did on the previous test printer!
The moral of the story - an imperceptible wiggling of the nozzle caused me a LOT of grief! While it is also possible that the nozzle had some sort of partial internal obstruction that was cleared out in the torch treatment, I believe that all my problems were related to the lack of proper tightening of the nozzle.
An important detail - I run a Dragon hot end on this printer. In the Dragon, the nozzle does not seat against the heat break like it does on most regular hot ends. A regular hot end also generally uses an aluminum heat block which expands when heated, this would cause all kinds of oozing of filament out the top and bottom of the heat block and the problem would be immediately obvious. A regular hot end must be hot-tightened because of that.
The Dragon uses a copper the block which does not expand anywhere close to an aluminum block and hot tightening is not required.
Anyway, I thought I would share the lesson I have learned over way too many hours!

@infiniteloop, agreed!. The two things that sold me on Duet was the fact that it was open source and, more importantly, because of the support of this forum. The level of support is way beyond any normal commercial product. While the community does a lot of support, the core team does an incredible job in the support department and product development is ongoing.

I have specifically avoided any clone merchandise based on the Duet design even though the clones can be had for less. I am more than happy to support the originator and want to do my part of keeping the business viable. I want to see the software and hardware advance!

On a related note, I supported another open source project that was a battery charging system. It was an excellent product but the originator either sold or partnered with somebody that was not interested in open source. The project went closed source, the hardware cost increased by a substantial amount and as far as I recall, support went down the tube. I dropped it like a hot potatoe.
My biggest worry when using an open source project ... will it be around in a year down the road. On the other hand, there is no guarantee that a closed source project will be around a month from now either.

This aught to be interesting: ) I got the popcorn, a glass of cool liquid and am ready for the entertainment

My biggest issue was using (and forgetting about it) gradual infill. For every gradual infill step, the infill percentage is halved and the vast majority of my lack of infill was because of that. I had very small infill steps at 1 mm so that most of the model was at very low percentage of infill.
I have also found that infill shape has a bit of influence over how things end up being sliced.
I am not sure that I found all the issues but I am good with what I have discovered.

To sum it up: Operator problem .... nothing to see here .... move along now ....

Once I replaced my extruder with something with more umph those end bits never bothered me again. They just get pulled through.
Mind you the end bit in your picture looks more than just a slight kink which is all I ever encountered.

@Co3get, here is my heater section of config.g:

; Heaters

M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4200 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp
M308 S3 P"e2temp" Y"thermistor" A"bed sense 2" T100000 B4200 ; configure alternate or second bed heat sensor
M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0 ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0
M140 H0 ; set bed heater to heater zero
M143 H0 S120 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M307 H0 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for the nozzle heater and set PWM limit
M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4200 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin e0temp
M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 1
M143 H1 S280 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C
M307 H1 B0 S0.6 ; disable bang-bang mode for the nozzle heater and set PWM limit
M308 S2 P"e1temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4200 ; configure sensor 2 as thermistor on pin e0temp
M950 H2 C"e1heat" T2 ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 2
M143 H2 S280 ; set temperature limit for heater 2 to 280C
M307 H2 B0 S0.6 ; disable bang-bang mode for the nozzle heater and set PWM limit

It's been a while since I set that up so am not too sure what all was done.
I do know that in order to display the second bed temperature on the graph in DWC, you need to go into the 'Extra' bit of the 'tools and extra' pane and flip the 'show in graph' thingy.

Hope that helps.

Yes, middle of bed for the sensor, offset a bit to not be directly where the bed wires go into the heat pad. I don't think it makes much difference exactly where it is located as long as it is somewhere in the middle-ish.

It is highly unlikely that the SSR has failed since it is not stuck in the 'on' position. It is way more likely that there is a wiring error.
Are you aware that the positive line will always be high no matter if the heater is on or off?
Simply wiring the negative to ground will cause all these issues.
Verify the ruting of the two control lines.

Another update - I have now printed three cover plates, the first one had some issues but the next two were perfect - I am very optimistic about the speed change.

Temperature was brought up as a potential issue for PETG. I dug out the details - Nozzle: 200 - 240 C, bed 75 - 85 C .... so I am right where I should be.

Thanks again to all that offered their input! To be honest, I could have stared at the settings til the cows come home and not seen that I had set it for higher than the recommended speed. I had been printing at that speed for quite some time. It's great to be able to bounce these kinds of things off the people in this forum because although it might stick out like a sore thumb to everybody else, sometimes it's difficult for the one staring at the problem to see the trees for the forest!