Topics created by jaydevdave

There is some more information at https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Tuning_the_heater_temperature_control#Section_Setting_the_model_parameters_manually.

@jaydevdave said in Driver on Board Shorts, how to ignore this error:

Error: Short-to-ground on drivers 0 1 2 3 4
Error: Over temperature shutdown on drivers 0 1 2 3 4

I am using Drivers 5, 6, 7, 8

That message indicates that the SPI bus to the on-board drivers isn't working properly. Did you make any modifications to the Duet?

Recent firmware versions allow you to send M569 Pnnn R-1 to disable monitoring of driver nnn.

Yes, it sounds like your PT100 wires are unshielded and running close to the extruder stepper motor wires.

The breakout board gives a differential output of about +/- 3.5V which is standard when using 5V line drivers. It's also possible to wire up the outputs a different way to get 5V single ended drive.

How are you driving the servo amplifier from the Duet: are you using the external stepper driver breakout board?

Fitting a silicone sock to my heatblock stopped similar small variations I noticed, it's probably worth trying one (or kapton tape layers) to rule out stray drafts etc that can make temps wobble.

And remember that PID is a feedback system; so it will wobble slightly in response to changing demands (say moving from a big area of constant rate wall/top printing to suddenly printing a lot of support with more travel than print moves), or moving from the cold side of the heatbed to the side out of the drafts, etc.

Each time the load on the heatblock changes you will see a small fluctuation before the controller brings it back to stable, and tuning PID's is a compromise between getting the fastest possible response, but without overshooting and possible oscillating around the set temperature without stabilizing.

That display should be electrically compatible with the PanelDue controller if you order it with the resistive touch screen; however the pinout of the 40-pin connector is different, so it is complicated to wire up.

Yes, if the DuetWifi is accessible from the 'outside', which could be a simple port-forwarding from your router (not recommended) or via a VPN from B to A…

Are they stepstick-type drivers, or large external driver modules with opto isolated inputs? If the latter, then given that those are usually intended for 5V drive and they only get 3.3V if you drive them directly from the expansion connector, it's quite likely that when you drive 2 of them form a single set of pins, the drive voltage drops too much. In which case, do as Tony says. Your interpretation of what he meant is correct.

HIWIN Servo drive Model number D2-0123-S-A0-G

I suggest you use a multimeter to check the voltage between ENA+ and ENA- on your external drivers. It should be 0 when you start the Duet, changing to almost 3.3V when you first command the X motor to move.

Similarly, measure the voltage between DIR+ and DIR-. It should switch between 0V and 3.3V depending on which way you try to move the X motor. For example, if you send G91 first, then G1 S2 X10 will set it one way and G1 S2 X-10 will set it the other way.

If those are both working, then although most external drivers work OK with the 3.3V signals provided by the Duet, it's possible that your drivers need a full 5V.

Did you mean with the external stepper driver interface board? If so, yes, if the servo system also has step/dir/en inputs compatible with that board (5VDC signals). But the answer can be very complicated because servos can have specific configuration requirements.

@jaydevdave:

Can we set motor current to 3A in config ?

Have you read the documentation?

https://www.duet3d.com/wiki/Choosing_stepper_motors

Thank you

If it's a standard hot end with a cartridge heater, you can just replace the 12V cartridge heater by a 24V one.

If not, then here are 3 options:

1. Power the whole printer from 12V instead of 24V.

2. Power the rest of the printer from 24V, but as a 12V power supply for the hot end heater and anything else that needs 12V.

3. Buy a 12V buck converter to generate a 12V supply from 24V.

For #2 and #3, connect your hot end heater between +12V and the E0- pin of the E0 heater terminal block.

What voltage does your bed heater need? If it is 12V only then you will need a 12V power supply to run it. Bed heaters need a lot of current, so using a buck converter to generate 12V for a bed heater doesn't make sense.

Just connect a 1N400x (where x = any digit 1 to 7) in parallel with the brake. Important: the cathode of the diode (the end with the stripe) must be connected to the positive connection of the brake solenoid (the end that goes to the fan connector pin marked V_FAN).

Here is a sample schematic. The mosfet in this diagram corresponds to the fan driver mosfet on the Duet, the "12V" label in that diagram corresponds to the V_FAN pin on the fan connector, and the "Drain" label corresponds to the FAN- pin on the fan connector.

Please check the documentation:

https://www.duet3d.com/wiki/Connecting_PT100_temperature_sensors

I'm sorry, I don't understand what you mean by "its expansion board". Please explain.

Have you read the instructions at https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/paneldue/ ?