Topics created by irondesk40

@irondesk40 said in reprapfirmware congig tool:

Has been some time since i have been able to work on this. have been working in Dominican Republic to relocate some of our equipment, but now back at starting on this. I took a look at the config tool page and it did not show a option for setting up a x,y,z axis type machine with a extruder . Which option should you choose, or is it considered a custom setup? Thanks

Unless your machine is one of the few models listed, choose Custom.

The manual for that device states "Minimum on state input current" as 16mA. This is a lot by modern standards, and more than the Duet can provide on the Step outputs. So you would need to connect a buffer between one of the Step outputs on the Duet expansion connector and the input of that device. Also you would need to use the M569 command to extend the step pulse width on that output to 3us.

Thanks to everyone. I realized on the drive home after getting off work that i was wrong in my previous post.
Spoke before i fully thought. As soon as i got in the car i realized that dummy, the two connectors on the board as SupraGuy said are wired in series to a single driver and then realized as DC42 said, just remap both to be a Z, which is why i chose the Duet over others in first place. Not that great with the G code but hope to get a lot better .
Thanks to everyone, learned to read and think about it a little longer before rushing to ask.
Have a great weekend.

@bot said in Crimping Tool:

@calvinx said in Crimping Tool:

@bot said in Crimping Tool:

The reason that ratcheting crimp tools are specified for aerospace use is because they are the only handheld method of getting a reliable crimp. A manual, non-ratcheting crimp tool does not provide a consistent, reliable pressure.

Use a manual, non-ratcheting crimp tool at your own peril.

So that means that those with no skill can use the ratcheting type then......

And conversely if you are handy with non ratcheting type crimper's and have skills no peril is involved...

I disagree. The fact that every time you crimp with the manual tool, you have a different result (because the amount you squeeze will not be the same each time) leads me to understand why the manual tools are completely written-off in aerospace work.

Sure, if you don't mind every once in a while having a bad crimp, or questioning whether or not you have a good crimp, go ahead and use a bench vise for all I care!

I'm simply suggesting that there is no time or money to be saved by using a manual, non-ratcheting crimp tool.

Also, in regards to the notion that a ratcheting-type tool is more difficult to use -- I do not understand this either. IMO, it's EASIER to use the ratcheting tool, although, not faster.

Of course, you need to test the tool to see if it makes good crimps with specific crimp pins. Once you determine that the crimps are sufficient, it will produce that same good crimp every time, no matter how lightly or hard you squeeze the handles.

With a manual tool, you're guessing each time if you applied enough, or too much pressure to the crimp. This, especially, comes into play with the insulation side of the crimp pin -- the manual type have no index to prevent over-pressure, and over-crimping this part is a pretty bad mistake.

So yes, it's at the user's own peril that they use a manual tool -- whereas with a ratcheting tool that has been verified to produce good crimps, there is not much peril at all.

I revert back to my earlier assertion, with time and experience my findings are what i am going to go with, if you think i am wrong that's fine, i really don't give two hoots what you think and I am not looking for your permission to do things the way I feel is best for me.

Just as an addendum to what @dc42 was saying:

The reason that most switches are configured normally closed is for safety. A normally closed (The signal pin sees ground all the time except when triggered) switch has to be present and connected to allow movement. If something goes wrong, and the switch is disconnected, a wire gets pulled from a connector, or cut by the printer's motion, the printer will see this as the endstop being triggered, which will result in an error condition, and it will stop, instead of grinding away trying to move past its limits.

A normally open switch configuration is the same untriggered as it is disconnected, in a home motion, for example, the printer motors can attempt to move the printer much further than it is physically capable of moving. This can put a lot of strain on belts, motors, mechanical mountings and bearings.

For the physical connection, the board has an internal resistor that will allow current to flow to the signal pin, so that it sees "high" voltage whenever the switch itself is open (not connecting), but when the switch closes between ground and signal, the voltage at the signal pin will be "low". So you are actually looking for high (~3.3V) at the signal pin to show that the endstop has been triggered. The firmware can be reversed so that it reads the other way around instead, but this is the better method.

Yes,I tried the see all notifications button and that works fine as long as you have not opened any to read. Is there a way to see all the notifications that you have posted in? I ususally try to print them out and save for future reference.
Thanks

3D Printing has a strong community heritage of being very, uh... "inexpensive"... Ok, CHEAP. Microswitches are dirt cheap and work very, very, very well.

Also consider: The homing switches really don't need to be that accurate on a 3D printer. Unlike CNC, where there may be fixtures, or a rough cut followed by a tool change and a finish cut, etc, etc. 3D printers generally print well away from their limits, and mostly do not re-calibrate.

There are some exceptions: Delta Printers, depending on how Z-Probing is used, may need quite a bit of repeatability in homing switches. Occasionaly, prints are re-started, etc. So don't take any of that as absolute... but... mostly... homing switches just don't really matter that much.

Summary: Micro-Switches are cheap, reliable, and more than up to the task.

Having said that, if you have a box full of sensors and could wire one in your sleep... go for it, man!

@stefancvij said in two z axis motors:

I'm going to upgrade a Cube Pro printer that has dual y-axis motors. Should i connect the 2 motors to use with 1 driver on the board, or is it better to use separate drivers?

it depends. if you have spare drivers on the board you intend to use then using two allows you to individually tram the two Y axis motors

I read that the board features 2 Z motor outputs, so could i use these ports and switch z with y in the config?

yes you can change the drivers to use any axis in the config.

Thanks to everyone. Just ordered the ethernet board, 5 inch display and the breakout board.

Compared to the smoothie community, two things are easy to observe:

the primary developer of duet is VERY active, VERY responsive, and very humble.

The community, right here on this board, is the same...

For a (possible) budget option, use an old phone's web browser. 🙂 😛

Thanks for replys. if you do not connect a Z probe is there a way to tell it the max travel. If i remember correctly i read somewhere that you manually would turn on the Z motor and move it to the maximun distance and then enter that value. Is this correct?

@irondesk40 said in Duet and external Stepper Motor controller:

M569 set motor configurations
M584 set drive mapping.

That's correct. M569 to extend the step pulse timing for the external drivers (T parameter) and if necessary invert the enable signal (R parameter). M584 to remap the axes to the external drivers. Example:

M569 P5 T2 ; increase driver 5 timing to 2us
M569 P6 T2 ; increase driver 6 timing to 2us
M569 P7 T2 ; increase driver 7 timing to 2us
M584 X5 Y6 Z7 ; remap XYZ axes to external drivers 567

The online configuration tool does not yet support axis remapping; so after generating files using the configurator and uploading them to the Duet, go to the System Editor page of Duet web Control and edit the config.g file there.