Posts made by hayseed_byte

I just want to say I love everything about this thread.

@nicolo17

You might check this thread:
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/28498/phase-a-and-b-may-be-disconnected

I believe you're trying to make the motors go too fast for your supply voltage.

@brs

Yah. With the paneldue the M300 commands produce a tone that's only audible if you're standing right next to the printer. Which makes it kinda pointless.

I've written up my experiences adding physical buttons to the Duet2Wifi here and here.

@rjenkinsgb

@rjenkinsgb said in Which Crimpers for Duet 2:

Soldering is technically better, for small wires:-
https://www.osti.gov/servlets/purl/1288669

That conference in your link seems to be talking about crimp connectors that were faulty because they were made out of the wrong material.

The connector representing the 2005 (good) lot showed
excellent bonding along the pin-crimp sleeve interface.

It does mention that soldering to solder lugs is better than crimping a pin improperly. It doesn't mention soldering a crimped connection.

I'm just trying to learn. I'm not an engineer. I don't work in aerospace or nuclear security so I'm not invited to conferences like you linked there. I have a mere fifteen years experience in industrial maintenance, nothing like your fifty years. But what I've seen is trying to solder a crimped connection leads to solder wicking up the wire making it stiff and causing to it break. It also damages the insulation and I think the bottom set of "wings" of the Molex KK pins are meant to hold the insulation to provide some strain relief. But I could be wrong.

@rjenkinsgb said in Which Crimpers for Duet 2:

That is of course your right.
I'm just working from near 50 years of designing and repairing industrial control systems, and seeing a significant number of poor connections and long-term failures with that general type of small crimp.
The fact is that if you can ever pull a wire out after crimping without it ripping strands, it's not truly crimped and can fail eventually.
https://smcontact.eu/good-crimp-connection/
Anyway, each to their own it's only information!

You're telling me that you repair industrial control systems in the field by using the wrong crimpers and adding a dab of solder to a crimped connection?

@rjenkinsgb said in Which Crimpers for Duet 2:

you must also solder the wire if you want long term reliability.

I'm going to have to go ahead and disagree with that completely.

Nice machine! Makes me want to start planning my next build.

@Chriss said in JST Crimp pliers?:

That may sounds a bit over the top but I love good tools and I'm sure that it makes sense to support good engineering. I think that this is the case with duet, isn't it?

A man after my own heart.

@dc42 said in JST Crimp pliers?:

Duet 3 uses both KK254 and VH396 connectors. The VH396 connectors can be crimped by Engineer PA21 crimp pliers.

Not that I plan to move to Duet3's any time soon (currently running 10 printers each with a Duet2Wifi+Paneldue) but do you mean that the PA21 will crimp VH396 pins or that it is actually designed to crimp them? I've tried the cheap ratcheting crimpers and the PA09 for KK254 and while they kinda work, the Molex 63811-8200 crimpers were totally worth the investment.

I think I had installed five Duets with the cheap ones when I finally talked myself into buying the Molex crimpers and the next five Duets went much faster.

I did a small write up on external triggers. https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Using_M581_-_External_Triggers_and_Building_a_Control_Panel

I think at the time, the duet asked for confirmation on estop so triggering it externally wasn't doable but I think they've fixed that so it should work now.

@Kweakui said in Pretty much at my wit's end:

@Phaedrux I'm using the official creality glass bed, it has some coating on it that's supposed to help prints stick when hot and release when cool, but it still has issues some times, I'll try a cleaning before each print and see if that helps any. In the beginning, I don't remember having to clean the bed every time and it was sticking great.

I've tried those Creality glass beds on a couple of my Ender 3's and they work great for a little while but after 20 prints or so things don't want to stick. I just applied a sheet of PEI to the opposite side and print on that. Glass+PEI is the print surface on nine of my ten printers. The tenth one is the printer I built myself and it has Mic-6 aluminum with a sheet of PEI.

TLDR: Get a sheet of PEI for your glass and forget about adhesion problems.

@Phaedrux That's perfect. Thanks! Don't know how I haven't come across that.

Just wanted to add that I have seven Duet 2 Wifi's in operation at the moment on printers that run almost 24/7 and have never had connectivity issues. All worked fine even when I was using the crappy router from my ISP and they all work fine with the Ubiquity set up I have now.

Very cool project!

Is there a way to do something similar but display the status of multiple printers on a computer monitor? Maybe with the use of a raspberry pi? I have nine printers that I'd like to monitor from another room but I don't want to buy nine of those.

@CJ-BRAVO I was never able to get an emergency stop button to work. The Duets ask for confirmation for emergency stop which sort of defeats the purpose. If I understand you correctly, your 2nd reset might have something to do with switch bounce so you might look into delay/debounce settings.

Awesome. Was just about to buy a third Paneldue. You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar.

I wrote a bit about M581 that you might find helpful. There's an article on my website but since I'm not very good at managing a website and it often goes down, I added it to the wiki.

That would be cool. Maybe a buzzer....

@zapta Yeah. The cost of a panel due was hard to justify. However, as an industrial maintenance technician, I can whip up a control panel out of recycled parts in no time.