Posts made by FrankNPrinter

THanks @Phaedrux ! I couldn't wait so finished upgrade about 130 this AM LOL that worked like a charm even if it read like mudd. someone might want to update the install for 1.21 vs 1.19 as that was the instruction i used. Still have panel due to go but everything else is 1.21 now. dont suppose there is a way to flash duo from duet wifi? Else wise i will have to pull apart my case un mount and disconnect it so i can carry it to the computer room and plug in usb. Shocked and amazed i have not heard from @dc42 yet. I seem to recall Dave sending me answers before i could finish the question back in the day. LOL Bet you are even more insanely busy but keep up the outstanding work! I can see so many improvements and advances since i went down this road before, it really is awesome the way you take everyone's crazy ideas and turn it into a new release.. epic stuff there that every company on the planet should be doing as a business model!
Now to tackle the bltouch issue again... later... much appreciated!

i have been a component level engineer for over 30 years. I have dozens of diffrent crimpers... i luv having the exact right the tool for the job and all but to date best crimping results i have gotten was with a 99 cent pair or tiny needle nose. If you have the patience for it. still a good way to go IMHO

thanks much @Phaedrux , i will give that a try this weekend!

Hi Dave been a while.. I see things have really progressed since i pestered you last. LOL I am getting ready to upgrade so i can get wifi working again. Great to see the evolution and addition of ssid and pw btw! I see i have some firmware updates to do as well but it is all a little confusing. i was wondering if someone can give me a cliff notes version of what to do 1st.
Duet wifi running ver 1.18.1 with panel due v 1.15c PC and printer are in opposite ends of house so ideally do this via sd card? What do i do 1st? Also confused about which are the latest versions and where to get them. I am hoping to get my ducks in a row for this weekend . BTW, loved the tidbit from E3D on how great the duet is. I have another printer now, running mks 1.4 board and wow, it is a real dinosaur by comparison. I had no idea how lucky i was with my 1st system. I am currently building a system with 1540 mm X, and 1500 mm Y \ Z so looking forward to the Duet2 as well

on my 1st system i went 12 volt and being a pc gamer went with a high end atx power supply for the board and 120 AC for the 300 x 300 mm 750 watt bed. heatsup in about a minute if i dont throttle it lol so more then enough power. weather AC or DC, getting the load off the main board is HUGE! My 2nd machine is a tevo tornado and 24 v. i was pleasantly surprised by performance of fairly cheap 8 bit board and components running at 24 v again huge performance advantages here. I wish someone made a 24v gaming rated power supply, that would be an epic place to start with powering any machine. As we have seen with stepper smoother and the like, good CLEAN power can't be beat!

I am wondering if it is possible to build a large format machine along the lines of x = 4ft y = 4 ft and z = 2 ft I have a duet wifi now that i love in my FT5 chassis. I am wondering if it is capable of driving the 2 print heads to work on the same part together? If so, any limits to # of concurrent print heads +- expansion boards is my guess.
just saw this and wow but no idea what hardware or software they are running. did notice they are using encoders on the motors too… question is, can the duet wifi run something like this on a smaller scale?
https://www.youtube.com/embed/TkEOMQ6rQ6s

yup you only want 2 wires for 12 volts.(12+vdc and return). PC power supplies often have multiple rails so you can share the load across different supply lines not that it matters since you only need one 12v source correct? Some rails have more amps than others BTW so not all 12v lines are the same. Check manufactures site for details if PS is not clearly labeled. i run ssr and 110 v 750 watt 300 x 300 mm bed heats up to 65c in about a minute so just maybe overkill depending on bed size. LOL recommend in line fuse to limit amps based on what you need and not what is available. you probably should not need anywhere near 40 or even 25 amps to run it. With that kind of potential, highly recommend massive chassis ground especially for the bed. Can't remember if it is 5vdc or 3.3vdc but if pc power supply, you can add that to the duet wifi too. hope this helps…

check the forum, several have documented all the little quirks of the bl touch models and how to get around them. Whitewolf and CAlvinX are pretty much subject matter experts as far as i am concerned…

side note, on my FT5 the left side lead screw moves very easily. When I turn off the power, i can see it drop up to 10mm on the left side. My work around for now is to eyeball level the bed before power on. This gets it close enough for mesh leveling to work. I am thinking of setting a box under the bed after i power off to make it fall level instead of just 1 side. I am still waiting on parts to convert to single z motor. I have decent 2 amp motors so doubt power will be an issue. I am pretty much convinced the z motors in series is not a good idea. IMHO they do not always move equally. I have matched motors so resistance and voltage drop should be the same but i suspect there is something adding a bit of a voltage drop or delay on 2nd port. no idea why…If the Z mod goes well, I might try to make Y a single motor too. I am an old fart so always look for a hardware solution over a software fix. 6 one way or half dozen the other or am i missing something?

btw, i have my fan set not to come on till layer 3 . Not sure you need all that extra arduino stuff as duet can do that for ya i think

got a pic? parts fan should not be blowing on extruder but below it so i am wondering how it is causing a temp drop?

Newbie disclaimer but If i understand it correctly, short answer is Yes. you get higher accuracy with smaller steps but give up torque. Also makes the cpu work harder with more steps and may be bad idea for extruder Is that what you are building? sounds cool

go·ni·om·e·ter
an instrument for the precise measurement of angles, especially one used to measure the angles between the faces of crystals.

no problem, in truth, i think i enjoyed the building phase more myself LOL I would be curious to see what it looks like when you get it done so plz post a pic some time.

tied = all z azis move together in direct drive. more motors on separate ports give you more power but with more than 1, can get out of sync. As it was explained to be by the Man here (props to dc42!) "when powered u,p steppers move to the closest full step. it is entirely possible for 1 motor to go up and the other down". Bigger the bed, more likely it can be tilted by this even just on power on \ off)… hence the dual z end stop solution or IMHO direct drive for all z axis (single belt to all lead screws is my plan BTW) currently running dual z motors in serial and not crazy about performance issues as mentioned above.

you can use the 2 z serial ports but there is an issue with them coming out of sync during power on \ off so your bed can get crooked. recommend you tie the z gears together or only use 1 z motor or as mentioned above, dont use serial port for 2nd z motor so you will be able to use dual sensor homing. tons of stuff in the forum on that

Newbie disclaimer, probably not the right way but worked for me…after running the calculator, my z movements were still way to low. I basically used the same method as extruder calibration and kept changing moment values until bed moved the same amount as i was telling it to. took a few tries but it appears to have resolved my issue. I started with small movements about 20mm once i got that right, bumped up to 200mm z+ and z- and again at 300mm bigger movement should multiply any inaccuracy so i think it did a good job of getting movement dialed in.

I had mine set at 1300 and was getting under extrudes at speed. Didn't even know i had this issues till i checked. Thanks dc42, you got a 2 for 1 on this solution

yup, me too I used a 1 pin and 2 pin connector. I believe it was the single pin connector that was causing me so much grief. 8 pin with only 3 wires seems to be more reliable. I suspect the crimp also had something to do with it. I have a crimp tool but much prefer a decent pair of needle nose. i seem to get better results that way. surprising considering i have built thousands of cables over the years and am very familiar with crimp tools etc. maybe mine is just a cheap1?

any messages on the console?

might try adding mac address to you host table and or a dns entry, mac wont change (unless you flash the firmware apparently) and should give you translation no matter the dhcp address assigned. access via netname and let dns do the work. hope that helps

Dave, i saw the thread about firmware changing the mac a few days ago, do all the duet boards have the same mac by default? this would be unusual as i understand networking but might be unique to this application. If so, my recommendation won't work unless you assign unique macs for each board.