Topics created by Dad003

well i think i got my layout all done now , had to go with some smaller cable tray for the top since i was a bit space restricted but it should be enough . fun part to come is to wire everything which is gonna be interesting lol , main duet will be on the right and expansion board on the left . both will have a 120mm fan to cool off the mobo . on top of the 3x120 sucking air for the radiator .

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@mrehorstdmd

The noise is not a concern To me , the z axis belt driven is what my actual printer run and it doesn't need any brake , the bed doesn't move even when there no power but then the pulley are 20>60,20>60,20 . Just to move it down by hand you have to considerably put a lot of weight.

All heater will be run on a fast switching SSR. https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=860

Bed will either be 24 or 48v , but the main mobo will be 48v for sure

Well i received the new nema 17 today and installed then , very close of achieving the speed i want , i did double my acceleration from 9-10k to 19k . only things stopping me right now i think is the duet 3 version i have that only support 32V , if i had the newer version that support 48V i would have achieve my goal here . i j ust need to tweak my printer a bit more and this build will be done. than after i guess the next build for high speed lol

@Dad003 yes, one of the favorite books I have is "Measure Twice, Cut Once" by Jim Tolpin.

@Dad003 said in Next iteration of gantry.:

Any thing him missing or should be aware of ?

My CoreXY is also supported by a carbon tube. I'm pretty happy with it. Make sure you pick a decent diameter tube and let one side float.
I did that by designing two different carriers, one side clamps the rod, the other is wider to take a 1mm thick PTFE tube, so the rod can slide to compensate thermal expansion.

@Dad003 I have been using a belt lifted z axis for a few years. My printer has a 30:1 worm gear drive motor to lift the bed. The worm gear drive is extremely high quality and the 60 tooth drive pulleys yield an even 20 um/full step, which makes for nice round number full step layer thickness multiples. The bed does not move at all when power is cut. This is the Z axis drive unit in my printer.
I run the motor at just over 1/2 its rated current and it has no trouble at all lifting the 3.5 kg bed assembly and an additional 4kg of print mass. The Duet2 controller drives the motor directly- no external driver is needed.

Mostly done wiring only a few fan left and switch , did my first print as well , seem like I got rid of many of the pass issue printer running a lot quieter at faster speed from 12v to 29 , just need to tweak things double filament to y guide seem to work well as well
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Let us know how it turns out.

I think the question you shpuld answer is: why are you having a jam/clog.

Reading your post THAT is your problem, not what extruder you are using.

I have been using a dual geared extruder, 2 extruders on my printhead, for about 3 years, printing materials like peek (420 degrees celsius) for 80 continues hours, and I have never, reallly NEVER a jam or clog .

So you problem is not the extruder and probably something else is causing the jam/clog.

I have an orbiter 2 on 1 of my printer. Really nice tight design. But I can argue many of the tech declarations on their website: so far I have not been able to reach the extrusion rates that I can get with my double geared bondtech clone extruder, because of the motor. I have a real extrusion rate of 67 mm3/s and on orbiter I never reached more than 30mm3/s and that is less than half.
there are another small design details like the peek parts on the orbiter that may be is not the place to discuss. Orbiter 2 is GREAT, but I have better extrusion rates and that is mainly because of the extruder motor of course.

So, I would focus no answering the question instead of just replacing the extruder.

@pjl from the maker of this petg they recommand 200-230C for print , i did had cooling fan on a bit too .

If you intend to push a high flow through the 0.8mm nozzle it would likely be worth going to 40w 24v. You can also look at tuning heater flow rate feed forward as well.

https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Reference/Gcodes#m309-set-or-report-heater-feedforward

@dad003 This is absolutely amazing can't wait to start mine soon. I am looking for a good 3d printer.

@giostark it was on a aluminum heatsink , it was never hot either has well when i checked it , it was just a cheap bad quality ssr

after converting the number it seem to be more accurate now

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@o_lampe

no , like i say my printer started as a cartesian so when i switched to core xy , i didnt touch the config for the limit switch since they were working like they should .

i ended up to draw a few things not fully sure about the belt tensioner. the reworked Y axis do look good on the other hand , belt need to be tightened from the back plate. any suggestion on that ?

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@dad003, if that message occurs immediately after updating firmware on the expansion board, or if you have used M999 B1 to reset the expansion board, ignore it. If it occurs at other times, send M122 B1 and post the report here.