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@dc42 Thanks a lot. I'm going to order today

@Phaedrux Thanks a lot. After reading a bit and looking at the board, it seem to be 32V DC mini blade fuse like these right?

Now I can get spare fuses. Interestingly, a small 1A fuse is not available to buy on Digikey. Could get from somewhere else anyway

@Phaedrux It's a bed cooling fan.

I've read them now but still not sure because I've no background in engineering.

Also, after hours of research. I've found another high efficient alternative which is rated 1.49A. It's NMB 12038VA-24R-GA-00

So, I think 2A fuse is acceptable because other fans are smaller .. but a lot cheaper anyway. Anyway, this fuse size is the Ampere of all running fans in the system and which I could buy typical car fuse and replace it right?

Hello,

Thinking about another simple solution within 1A limit, the fan pressure become half of that high power one. The current for this fan is 1A with maximum 1.5A

This fan will run about 5-10 minutes at a time. Will it be too stretch for 1A fuse?
https://www.delta-fan.com/Download/Spec/FFB1224EHE.pdf

@Veti Thanks. Now it became brushless motor powered by heater output and have no idea how to control the fan with command..

@mrehorstdmd haha, just overlook. Thanks.

@Veti Thanks. Then any idea what I need to do to make it works?

Hello,

I'm getting a high power fan to be used with Duet 2 Wifi. The model is Delta PFB1224UHE 24V 2.4A 12cm. Is this fan supposed to work with this board? Any caution since I never installed this much power fan before.

Also, I've read the wiki that there's brushed and brushless motor. Any idea which one is this fan?

Here's the PDF spec of this fan on official website

Thanks,
Cookie

How-to Print Queue and Automated Print Cycle

Machine: Prusa-Style machines with heat bed, using Duet Controller is convenient e.g. Prusa MK3, Cetus MK3, MakerGear M2
Bed Surface: Clean Glass using Isopropyl alcohol (I use Ikea LOTS mirror because of the quality and availability)
Filament: Tested working with typical PLA, PETG but should works with any materials which can be print on the glass surface and removed easily.
Model Size: Base 10x10cm (Width x Length) or bigger, Height: 2-3cm shorter than the maximum height of the machine.

The important aspect for the removal process is to lift the model up vertically instead of pushing horizontally. There's some strong force, that I feel like the vacuum, which prevented the model to move if push from the sides even if it was once removed. From my tests, I can only remove small models if push horizontally which also stress the gantry a bit.

Instruction:

• Leveling the bed Manually level the bed or using manual/auto mesh bed compensation and make sure you get a good first layer adhesion, while it is not too squished or too high.

• Add sprue Add 1mm cylinder in the model to an area that can be cleanly cut or easily broken off when the print finished. It can be added within your slicer software without modifying the original model. The sprue height should be 10-20mm higher so the model doesn't touch the heat block when ejecting. The tip of sprue is the area where the nozzle will be stopped.

• Test print We will simulate some ejection steps first. The test model should be around the same footprint of your target model, with at least 1-3 mm thick so it is not flexible. e.g. 15cm x 15cm x 3mm rectangular plate. Test printing your model using the right temperature for heat bed, which doesn't warp your model or make it too sticky to the glass, then wait for the model to cool down after finished printing. Try pulling the model up vertically from the sprue, which should take only a little hand force to do if the first layer height is correct. Pay attention to the waiting time and the temperature that the model can be removed successfully because this is the value that you will be used in your ending script of the print. e.g. printing PLA at 60c heated bed, and the model can be successfully removed when the heat bed go down to 32c (which takes 5 minutes from 40c ... Duet's M190 command monitor the bed only when it is over 40c ).

• Create End.g Macro This is the end script which will be called at the end of your model gcode, the essential steps are:

; ###Cool down###
; Wait 120 Seconds for nozzle to cool down to under the Glass Temperature of material e.g. My PLA is 60 Celsius
G4 S120
; Wait for Heated Bed to Cool down to 40 celsius
M190 R40
; Wait 600 Seconds for the heat bed to cool down to 32 celsius e.g. My PLA can be removed easily from the heat bed when it reach 32 celsius
G4 S600
;###Lift up###
;Set relative positioning
G91
;Move Z up 20mm, the nozzle will pull up the model effortlessly
G1 Z+20 F1000
###Drop the model###
;Move X,Y to edge of print bed, choose the suitable X,Y values for your printer
G1 Y-999 X999 F1000
;Heat the extruder to 200 celsius, so the PLA at the nozzle tip melts and the model drops from it around the corner of the heat bed. The model should fall to the table by gravity if placed the sprue at the other corner (Adjusted the location to suited your machine)
M109 S200
;Extruder heater off
M104 S0
###Push the model outside printing area###
; Slowly push the model out of printing area, this should be carefully planned if the model has an irregular shape. It can be easier if you have a mechanical push part on X/Y and set up the printing area to facilitate the ejection process.
G1 Y900 F1000
;Home X/Y/Z
G28 X999 Y999 Z999

• Test End.g Macro Test your macro and refined it before use is a good idea. You will actually see how thing works at this time.

• Create trigger2.g Go to System directory using System editor in your Duet Web Control and create trigger2.g (2-9 will do) and add this:

; Switch off trigger2.g
M581 Z S-1 T2 C
;Wait for current moves to finish
M400
;Wait 10 Seconds (can be omitted or changes)
G4 S10
; Print a.gcode, this is your xxx.gcode in your SD card to be printed
M32 "0:/gcodes/a.gcode"

• Create CallTrigger2.g Macro

; Set up trigger2.g
M581 Z S0 T2 C0
; Execute trigger2.g
M582 T2

• Test CallTrigger2.g Macro Test run your macro, it should start printing a.gcode now.

• Putting them together Go to your slicer, loaded your model, add sprue, finish settings and put End.g and CallTrigger2.g in the ending script by adding this 2 lines:

; Run end.g macro
M98 P"/macros/End.g"
; Run CallTrigger2.g macro
M98 P"/macros/CallTrigger2.g"

• Save the file The file name should be the same as one in CallTrigger2.g, in this example is a.gcode

• Print them Congratulation! Now your printer should print a.gcode repeatedly without manual removal process .. with glass-like finishing at the bottom side

You can continuously print only one or many sets of model by using more triggerX.g files e.g. a.gcode call trigger2.g which print b.gcode, b.gcode call trigger3.g which print c.gcode and so on. Named the folder and copy that trigger set to /sys when you want to print them. This way, you could have many print sets with a limited number of triggerX.g.

Also, triggerX.g can be changed, modified without stop printing until the filament run out. You can print set A two times, then set B four times and so on with some planning, a webcam and come back a few times to delete, copy/paste trigger sets in Duet Web Control.

Notes:

1. The process was simplified, to make it easier to understand.
2. Now you get the idea, So, you should customize/modify and test your processes e.g. nozzle priming, heat bed temperature, removal, ejection that suitable for your machine before you begin your production run.
3. I think the process is not restricted to Duet only. With some more researches and knowledges, other controllers and firmwares should be able to do it too.
4. I'll add more videos, photos and details later on..
5. I'm curious what is the biggest footprint area that this method works because I don't have big printer. Please post it, if you tried it succesfully with big prints.

Credits:
Sanjay Mortimer, RepRap Auto Printing - Ejection of print and starting of new print.
P&U, 3d printer: auto removing of printed object

@dc42 said in Print Queue and Automated Print Cycle:

BTW I think there may be an indirect way to have one print file start a different print at the end. Instead of using M32 directly, you would use M581 to set up a dummy trigger and M582 to check and execute it immediately. Then put the M32 command in the trigger file.

Thanks, seem like it's works! Now, I've tested that I could do recursive call between a.gcode and b.gcode by:

1.) Create trigger2.g and trigger3.g in "sys" folder.

1.1) Trigger2.g

; Switch off trigger2.g

M581 Z S-1 T2 C0

; Print a.gcode

M32 "0:/gcodes/a.gcode"

M400 ;Wait for current moves to finish

G4 S2 ;Wait 2 Seconds

; Call trigger3.g

M581 Z S0 T3 C0

M582 T3

1.2) Trigger3.g

; Switch off Trigger3.g

M581 Z S-1 T3 C0

; Print b.gcode

M32 "0:/gcodes/b.gcode"

M400 ;Wait for current moves to finish

G4 S2 ;Wait 2 Seconds

; Call Trigger2.g

M581 Z S0 T2 C0

M582 T2

2.) Create a Recursive.g in "macros" folder which called Trigger2.g

M581 Z S0 T2 C0

M582 T2

3.) Run the macro and the machine go in an infinite loop of a.gcode and b.gcode

Now, seem like I can chain many triggers into this loop. I'm testing more to see if it really works with actual printing files or not

Updated: It's really working nicely .. by just call a trigger, which there's a M32 command in it, at the end of gcode. The nice thing is you can change the macro or trigger any time without stop printing.

Finally, I'm really happy that this project to becomes fruitful. It takes me more than a year in gathering info, research, learning, pick the right products and putting everything together.

Of course, Duet is the most important part which realized it!

I will wrap up and update the process after finished testing with PETG.

This is a very interesting topic. It would open a lot of possibilities for production printing. For now, I got to learn and find workarounds until Duet 3.

Thanks a lot !

Just learned that I can't call M32, to select and print another file, at the ending script of a gcode

Using multiple M98 or M32 commands in a macro

@phaedrux seem like that I have to do that at the moment. It is quite a messy way and error-prone way to do it.

I may have up to a hundred of different print queues, 4-5 files for each. Is there any good way to check gcode validity after concanated them before printing?

@dc42 I have developed a lift and push technique, which I've tested is possible to eject 4"x 4" footprint for PLA (possible a lot bigger) using any Prusa style machine with glass heated bed. This is a very important step because it could apply to many inexpensive machines. I will post the details after I thoroughly tested it

Any idea how could I start other gcode files after I cleared my print bed with my custom end.g macro?

E.g. I have a set of files to print, 1.gcode, 2.gcode, 3.gcode, ... and so on.

After finished 1.gcode .. Is there any way I could continue print 2.gcode, then 3.gcode and so on until the end of the list in the folder?

Hello,
@dc42 Thanks for very clear instruction, I've got it working

Now the next step, I want the heated bed to cool down to 32 Celcius before beginning auto eject macro which I've written for small PLA prints. However, I noticed that M190 is not working under 40 Celcius .. bummer .. not sure why. So how should it be done?

Cookie

@dc42 said in Controlling a Cetus3D with Duet3D 0.8.5:

It's better to remove the G92 command completely. Set the M208 upper Z limit to the height at which the endstop switch triggers.

Thanks, I've replaced G92 with M208 in both homeall.g and homez.g already.

I've tried a bit with manual mesh bed compensation using G29.
However, the height is about 18 cm. so I'm not sure I should set the machine Z maximum to 17.5cm or 18.5 cm prior doing mesh bed compensation .. the hot end try to dig the bed if I do 18.5 cm .. So should I set the height a bit shorter to 17.5cm?

Would there be any effect if I set the height quite short and compensate like 4-5mm for all point? @dc42 any suggestion about how to do it correctly?

@fotomas I've successfully tested the Cetus by heating up hot end to 240c and heated bed to 90c to 2 hours .. and it seems stable now.

Now it's time to level the bed and test printing. However, I found that the end stop for Cetus is at the top, so Z = 0 cm is at the highest level and Z = 18+ cm is at the bed level.

So, how did you config the Duet with Cetus flipping Z?

Update 1:
I have changed endstop location to "At High End" and flip z motor direction and the machine can home successfully .. then when I try to move in -Z nothing happened but when I try +Z it keep going up against the end stop! But after that stuttering I can move in -Z about 2.5cm and that's it.

Update 2:
I've found the solution by editing "homez.g" in setting:
;G92 Z0 ; set Z position to axis minimum (you may want to adjust this)
to
G92 Z180 ; set Z position to axis maximum

Thanks,
Cookie

@chrishamm I already found that the problem occurs only when I loaded an existing configuration, which was previously saved with heated bed 'unchecked'.

Also, I've noticed that the Semitec 104-GT2 value is confusing. The preconfigured in RFF is β: 4388 K while the Wiki stated it is 4725 K here.

Thanks,
Cookie

Hello,

It seems like I can't continue after adding heated bed in Reprap configurator, both happened in Chrome and Firefox latest version. It works when I unchecked heated bed.

Possible bug? or I did something quite not right here? @chrishamm

Thanks,
Cookie

@dc42 Thanks. Yes, seem like at least thermistor wires are smaller. Also, like Calvinx said .. the head seem to be too thick to work with small wires. Then, this set are for other jobs .. mostly.

So, I’m going to order another one for small wires because this tool should last very long and worth buying, but HT-225D aren’t available in my region. There aren’t so many options with good reviews I could get. So, I’ve narrow down to these two:

1.) Iwiss SN-01BM $21.5 (my region) got a very good review from buyers.

2.) Iwiss 2820M $24 (my region), as suggested in comments above that could works.

Any idea Which one seem to provide better result or easier (I’m quite new to wiring) ?

Thanks, Cookie

Hello,

I’ve ordered this crimping tools, the set come with 11 head, for my JST needed: http://s.aliexpress.com/3eu6rY3E

Is this kind of tool also works with Duet’s Molex kk or I’ve to get specific one?

Thanks,
Cookie