Posts made by BPisLife

Forgive me if this was already discussed, but playing around with the pwm connectors, the wiring diagram says that pwm_3 is connected to E4 which I think associated to heater 4. In any event PWM3 is controlled by turning off Heater 5 (m307 H5...) and control the pwm 3 by calling heater m280 P5...

This is extremely confusing and not intuitive. The wiring diagram for the servo connector says e4, which is H5 to control pwm3.

The error is that it should at least label Heater 5 along with PWM_3. Heater 6 with pwm_4 etc.

@bpislife Ok, to close this post out. I was able to repair the traces. What I did was short the broken traces out at the very top, so 5 lines were essentially shorted together. I figured this was better then simply breaking the circuit. I did this in the two places where I had damaged the trace. Turns out the washer had been dented when I removed the e3d hotend and it dug into the PCB when I torqued down the nut.

Anyways, the smart effector works like a champ now.

Ok, turns out I damaged the traces on the PCB. Looks like I am going to be ordering a new one. I do plan to attempt to repair the traces, but we all already know how that's going to end.

@veti it did work fine with the e3d hotend but may try swapping it back in just to see.

@dc42 it happens anytime the sensitivity is set below 80 regardless of the hotend state. This problem also seemed to have steadily crept in as the light makes more false triggers then normal. Like I said it worked well enough. Now I am running G32 with the hotend off just to rule out noise or interference from the hotend or fans.

Thinking deeper, what sort of things would effect the sensitivity? Noise I know, but what about bad ground, broken or out of spec part (if so, which ones in particular) etc?

Also what force would you expect needs to be seen for it to trigger at 85? Doesn’t seem that far off from 50 in a scale of 255, but event 6000 federate doesn’t trigger it properly.

Just to add a little more detail. If I change the sensitivity to about 85 it stops the LEDs both when its still and when its moving. The issue is even with a feed rate set to 3000 the nozzle hits the bed and skips. Any ideas?

@bpislife I did change from a 35W to a 50W heater cart. Is there something I need to calibrate out for it to work. The hotend already turns off when it goes to probe but the green light still goes crazy.

I am hoping someone can help me figure out what’s going on with my smart effector. Worked for over a year and nothing changed, EXCEPT I changed over to a mosquito. I noticed the green LED goes bananas even when sitting still. Went to run its first print and at all probe points I received “probe already triggered”.

Did I break something, crush something, etc? Just not sure where to look.

I often check on a print using my iPhone and all to often when I am pinching and zooming around the screen I change the extrusion amounts, speed, etc. on accident. For mobile views (assuming they are separate as they appear separate) can you make those drop downs as the slider is hard to adjust to a desired value but easy to move on accident?

Also forgive me for assuming you don’t know this but I figured I would mention it. Make sure each lead of the pair is plugged into the same same side of the pt100 boards not mixed. I had an issue with my pt100 and I had cross leads and clearly that didn’t work right.

I would check your solder joints where you are tying your pair to a single lead. I would also use a DMM in continuity mode to test that wiring to make sure you didn’t cross a pair somewhere. On the PT100 board make sure jumpers are removed to make it a 4 wire measurement, and then check you config file to make sure you are telling it to use the PT100 board and not the thermistor pins. 4 wire should be fine for that length as the idea is the extra impedance from that long run should be cancelled out. That said there may still be a practical limit. I stress MAY.

The heater cartridge can also have burned out and looking significantly lower resistance then it should. If this is a recent issue have you tried replacing the heater?

I guess my only comment would be to make sure the endstop numbers match the motor controller numbers. It looks like you do, but I figured I would mention it.

Another thing for future duet boards (off topic) is to label the motor controllers in silkscreen not only what their default setting (as it is now, ie y motor, x motor) but by their motor number (MC 0, 1, 2, etc). It sometimes gets confusing when you aren’t wiring all the time (last time was months ago) and having to remember motor numbers aren’t in order of their position on the board.

What is your motor current set to? I had this issue when I accidentally set the motor current way to low.

I had this issue also. In my case I had flashed it with the wrong firmware and not the 7.0i firmware.

@dc42 thanks for incorporating my feedback on the latest PanelDue firmware with both the Stop button taking priority and actually stopping the printer immediately as well as the 2mm/s federate on the extruder.

Really liking the notification system on the latest firmware! Nice work to everyone involved.

One of the best ways I found removing a large QFP chip with thick ground connections is to little rally cut the pins off the package then desolder the remaining pins. This needs to be done carefully as to avoid delaminating the copper from the PCB but this is another method.

@siblues other than deploying the probe twice, does it work properly otherwise? Like I said this has been a very common occurance but it has zero effect on functionality.
@dc42 May have changed something in the latest firmware that undid the fix to keep that from happening but I would say it low priority otherwise.

Which firmware are you using? I know older firmware this was a common and harmless occurance.

@pierre52 i think they have to send you a link to is. Filastruder sent me the form link.

Based on the spot in the forum and description of the heatsink and such I am going to assume the smart effector.

Out of curiosity why are you replacing it?