Best posts made by BPisLife

I often check on a print using my iPhone and all to often when I am pinching and zooming around the screen I change the extrusion amounts, speed, etc. on accident. For mobile views (assuming they are separate as they appear separate) can you make those drop downs as the slider is hard to adjust to a desired value but easy to move on accident?

@kskiff7034 Using the same method, check across the cable. So one side at the connector at the bltouch (or the connector right before that to be able to disconnect it, and the other side the through the connector. do this to make sure you have continuity down the entire cable.

You set z to 2.5 after it hits the end stop with the G92. This means the bed will be able to travel "2.5" beyond where the endstop is that could lead to colliding of the bed and nozzle. Have you tried printing with the G92 Z2.5 commented out with ";" in front?

The key is to set it such that Z = 0 when the nozzle touches the bed as simplify 3D will usually move the bed -.01 per .1mm by default, so .18z for a .2mm layer height. If the nozzle touches at 2.5, then the bed will move 2.32mm at the start of each print to get to the z = .18.

I had this problem when I first started out. In simplify3D you can also set the first layer height.

@zov I have that nozzle and to be honest I have better luck with my hardened steel tip from e3d. Print tons of cf parts and none have issues. Yes the nozzle works on the smart effector (that’s where I used it) but not any more. The issue is eventually the nozzle gets dirty and despite cleaning it carefully I notice I would get an uneven filament flow rather then a smooth line. Never figured out what caused it, I just know that after using my hardened steel nozzle for twice the time I have yet to encounter the problem.

I can confirm that fixed it. Thanks!

@coreyz I think I see what you are trying to do, unless I am missing something. The issue is that you would want to tell it its really at -2.5mm. The reason is that if you open the gcode file you will see that z is set to "0.18" for example. That means the printer sees that it is at 2.5mm and moves the bed closer to the nozzle to get it to 0.18". at -2.5mm it will move the bed down 2.5mm+.18 to get to position. I personally find it better level the bed to .1mm at z-0 and then let the slicer do the rest.

@bpislife Ok, to close this post out. I was able to repair the traces. What I did was short the broken traces out at the very top, so 5 lines were essentially shorted together. I figured this was better then simply breaking the circuit. I did this in the two places where I had damaged the trace. Turns out the washer had been dented when I removed the e3d hotend and it dug into the PCB when I torqued down the nut.

Anyways, the smart effector works like a champ now.

So an update in case others face this issue. It turns out that when I was changing the top pulley wheel of the front right tower that it didn't feel smooth when i turned it. I put the belt on it and moved it (disconnected from everything else) and I could feel as if the pulley developed a flat spot, always had it, well whatever it was there. Definitely seems like the culprit. I didn't notice before since I didn't have a new pulley to compare it to. It is subtle but you can feel it. Since I never just do a simple repair, I am upgrading the pulleys on all towers to the 16 tooth version, replacing the linear rails, new carriage, belts, 16 tooth gear on the stepper motors, and since I am essentially rebuilding the entire printer, I am also upgrading the motors to 0.9 degree motors.

So yea I definitely think it was just the pulley, but since I already ordered all the parts I am upgrading everything else.

Once I am done replacing everything and re configuring the printer I will re-run the test and post the progress.

Success!! After adjusting the pulley on the motor on the X tower I adjusted the pulley on the right tower as well. There were two set screws and I had both torqued down. There was a lot of play between the pulley and the rod without both, but it turns out using both set screws offset the pulley so that its oblong when secured to the motor shaft. After only using 1 set screw on the flat portion on both motors, the major bands are gone. This is the first time I ever printed this tall without those thick bands.

Now the next thing I need to do is clean up the smaller bands on the printer.

Finally, I get to close out this post!

The thin banding in previous pictures went away with the frame rebuild. The thick banding went away when I tightened the bed's feet up against it so there was no chance of movement.

The result, a perfect print with no banding.

@3mm The smart effector was designed with magballs in mind which is why I asked my question. They have a superior backlash performance since there is no slop in the fish-eye to ball....I know I know the terminology is wrong, but you should still be able to understand what I am saying.

https://www.duet3d.com/DeltaSmartEffector