Topics created by arhi

@LB said in stepper precision:

@arhi
As you already pointed out yourself: if you shift the offset on the left to 0 in the middle of the "wave", then you have only +-0.1 which would be not that much for a 1.8° Stepper?

yes, only I'm not sure where these offsets originally come from but I'll redo those analysis as soon as I get out of the pickle with the bread and butter stuff 🙂

This is weird, during the print never happens that "all motors" are sitting still and this is duet2 board so TMC2660 .... this does not follow our observations but since I'm sure dc knows what he's talking about 😄 the obvious solution is that our observation is faulty that lead to the wrong conclusion(s).

What I'd guess now is that our "live" current is too low.

It also now has firmware retraction support that wasn't there before

@dc42 said in 3.2b1 duet2 sbc build?:

@arhi, I have just added the now-tested Duet 2SBC binary to the 3.2beta1 release.

many thanks!

@arhi Ah ok, those are robust no doubt.

It shouldn't in theory be necessary to adjust the DAA settings for speed changes, because the vibration frequencies don't change with speed. However, DAA doesn't currently account for jerk completely, so changing the jerk may well affect DAA. In particular, high jerk settings make DAA ineffective.

I have some 11 year old natural PLA from bitsfrombytes, 3mm dia, that you can't unspool 😄 .. it does not crack as easy as some modern old PLA but is hardened so much you can't uncoil and straighten it .. I did manage to print with it using a heat gun to heat it up while unspooling but is a manual process acceptable for test only, not for actual printing; it's only total of maybe 500g so not really a big deal (when I remember how much I paid for it it hurts) ... but this last issue was with ABS. Not sure why this happens. I seen few times in videos of ppl like Tomas or Joel that they mention "these are old spools of filament that is unprintable" so they too have the issue of - after some time on the shell filament is unusable, but why ?!

Also, what's weird, as I already mentioned, I have pieces printed out of PLA that are 10 years old and still are totally ok, never became brittle?! Why does filament becomes extra brittle and week while printed part does not ?!

@arhi said in Drive 0 value in DWC?:

cool so when I start print from SD it will start from 0 and count till the end of the print. Thx.

I think so too. I believe that's what DWC uses to give the estimated completion time based on filament usage.

@deckingman said in bondtech e-steps weird values:

@arhi I found on my (6) BMGs that the spring doesn't really do much - unlike the Titans for example. I think it's only there to allow you to pull the arm back for fast feeding of filament. The way the teeth of the two gears mesh together means that it is impossible for the hobbed part to bite too deeply. So once there is enough tension on the spring to bite into the filament, further tensioning of the sprint has no effect. You might as well just tighten it as far as possible - no need for shims or short fixed screws.

I have very nasty sounds from it when I tighten the spring completely.
I tested the idea today, used piece of PTFE tube cut to size instead of spring and there's almost zero difference in extrusion rate now between different speeds, BUT, now I have grinding of filament at 100mm/sec .. interesting, will need to investigate further.

Why don't you calibrate the steps per mm the "normal" way by extruding say 100mm of filament at low speed (say 5mm/sec). Then without changing the steps per mm, increase the feed rate in say 1mm/sec increments and note the amount of extruded filament. Repeat as necessary and tabulate the results. Then we can see if there is some sort of linear relationship between extruder speed feed amount, or if there is a step change, or something else.

I plan to do that the moment time allows as this seems to be very important thing that I never had to deal with so need to know what's going on

Ref the clones - https://www.bondtech.se/en/2020/01/31/original-bmg-vs-clone/

Well aware of that page, but, I can't say I agree with it completely. Would not dismiss it right away as my clones are still in a drawer so till I have printed with them I can't judge but from the imagery on that page I can say that

the el-cheapo ungeared clones I purchased match all the "problems" mentioned on that page, but since I purchased those for a completely different reason (I wanted to use them as encoders for the filament passing and as unspooling devices, to pull the filament from heavy spools if necesary to create slack for real extruder to not have to deal with that .. they are attached to DC motors and I'm super happy how they perform)

comparing gears between 2 clones and 2 original BMG extruders I can tell you that there's no way anyone would notice a difference, no difference in color nor weight nor shape, the teeth on these clones are cut straight like original BMG and not with a tap (like on those el-cheapo ungeared ones) and teeth are hardened (tested with a file, the file just slips over teeth, can't bite)

the logo is not there of course, not a functional difference, the case on the other hand on the clones is bit different, clearly not 1/1 copy of the original and clearly tougher than the original, very good professional finish, I don't mind the clone case at all!

"black POM gear" - my originals have same white gear as clones, I cannot differentiate them. dunno what these black ones on BMG site are but mine originals are WHITE and all original BMG's I seen have white gears. Also a local shop told me that they have stripped those white gears on original BMG's on bunch of them inside 6 months testing and that they printed new ones on their SLS machine that behave much better so...

threaded metal pushfit - I don't use bowden so I could not care less but again on my original bmg I don't have this "metal push fit" ... "black thumbscrew" - I would not even comment on this 😞

secondary drive gear - now, VISUALLY they are identical as original ones. I can't say how they perform, have not tried yet!!! so when I do I can say if they generate debris or not, tare trough filament or not.. visually - no difference, hardness - no difference (file test)

clunky and cheap - well, I seen clones that really look cheap an clunky, but I'v seen ones that look awesome and super professional (I won't show pictures as I do not want to market them, neither the nice nor the crappy ones) .. just 'cause they are clones or PRC made does not mean they are bad...

I understand they found probbly the nasty clone to compare with 😄 and for those that need 1 or 2 extruders I'll always push toward original ones.. but.. for experimenting, breaking, melting.. I'm going with clones 😄

the double-drive system is now used by hemera too, is used on 5-6 different extruders these days so .. I'm all for helping the new design and going original (hence my 2 originals) but I need another 4 extruders on the e3d toolchanger, I'm going with 2 bmg clones and 2 original flex3drives, we'll see how will these clones perform, but pricewise I'm pretty sure they will be delightful 😄 ... now the two I linked, the full alu frame.. for 10 years I'm talking about extruder like that, I'm sure e3d guy's can find in the email archive when they pushed water cooled kraken I shot them a message that it would be super cool to have a whole aluminium extruder water cooled with kraken nozzle shoved into it... so similar to these aluminium dual gear extruders from PRC that you can push something similar to kraken heatbreak in only water cooled and not air cooled... note these are available for few years already!! e3d just recently published hemera and it is not fully metal nor water cooled 😞

@omni after the M591 it dumps all the data and wait for new one, so during print (only during SD card print) it will start collecting it... but you need 7mm of print to receive a single pulse so it's slow in your case.. I assume long E (~ 25mm) and I assume the first data you will see there is after 25mm is extruded trough sd card print.

I added to reset it on every layer on my printer

@deckingman yeah, min value would work, that's an awesome idea, will try it out!

I was thinking about the "unmap" and "map to a different one" but was trying to find something less "destructive" 😄 like the min/max, I think that will do exactly what I want :), I just up the min to 80% and my print will survive :). Looking at today's print, how big a difference in surface quality between non-dried PETG and "kept in drybox" PLA, crazy..

@FelixH it's not "change filament" per se. I did not call any change filament macro. The printer pauses print because filament monitor detects "low" (none in this case) movement so pauses the print. From there I manually go to extrusion control, retract the remaining filament, feed in new one through the tubing (one tube from box to the filament monitor, next from filament monitor to the printer) and extrude that new filament, clean the ooze and click resume.. a replace filament macro I never made/tested, I should but..

I mostly use Inventor and Nastran in-CAD.

def. works.. finished few prints with enabled sensor with PA working ..

Pulse-type filament monitor on pin e0stop, enabled, sensitivity 0.124mm/pulse, allowed movement 50% to 200%, check every 3.0mm, measured sensitivity 0.124mm/pulse, measured minimum 74%, maximum 117% over 3091.4mm

so if PA is not reversing everything is ok. the 0% minimum was a hardware failure (fixed :D)

so def makes sense to add a converter to convert quadrature output to the position data to send like those smart sensors

Hm, this is maybe normal behavior @dc42 ?

I have debugging on for few modules (network and web), usb connected .. logging I play in DWC I unplug USB from PC DWC disconnect and don't work I replug the USB to PC DWC immediately start working

I assume 'cause debug is turned on lack of access to serial port makes webserver not working? so this is unrelated to the crash I'm trying to reproduce?

I would think the plastic with the least water content would come out atop ignoring non plastic fillers?

darn thing always return OK no matter if it's supported or not 😞 ...

anyhow tested G10L2 works for offsets but "rotation around Z" is ignored 😞 on smoothie in grbl mode and on grbl and turbogrbl too

@dc42 said in "reported by driver(s) 3" - what driver is this:

so I have considered removing that feature.

I would actually make it more prominent 😄 .. attm if you are not looking at the DWC you don't see it unless you actually click on the console tab as it will popup and self timeout. I started having small extrusion issues day before I noticed the message and I was trying to figure out where it comes from (too much cooling, too low temperature, weird settings...) but I could not find it but it was just a few issues here and there and then it stopped being serious underextrusion issue, I cleaned the nozzle 5 times, spent 2-3 meters of nylon, inspected everything with microscope... and it was doing it again when I noticed a yellow/orange popup going away so I clicked on the console to find whole bunch of warnings about this...

Now I started checking "console" tab every time print ends but I'm not sure if anything will be in the console tab if I start a fresh DWC after print is finished (as I normally start the print and close the tab as I don't enjoy looking at printer printing and monitoring statuses... was interesting 10+ years ago, now I start & forget and expect to find a printed piece after certain time passes & notification is sent 😄 )

@mrehorstdmd said in heated chamber - cooling:

@arhi The last file I linked was the fusion360 design file.

missed that one, great 🙂

I designed the impeller hub to fit the HDD motor I was using so you'll likely

I might use hdd motor as well have enough of them and they are super quiet

A 300A motor might be overkill for this application... but it should make for an interesting series of youtube videos, maybe called "Does it Blow?".

😄 I was thinking about how to test max rpm that 3d printed part can survive but I'm not sure this motor can do too many rpm's as IIRC it was designed to be used with huge propeller so high torque, not too much speed, but will check, need to find it first I remember when I purchased it but have not seen it in many years 😄

I have some smaller ones (purchased same time same store in Budapest 😄 ) that are high rpm low torque, I got the appropriate propellers for them and those are the fairly small ones but still generate loads of trust (iirc 2.5kg but I'm not sure need to find my notes) due to speed, wanted to use them for some super fast gimbal platform but never got around doing it