Best posts made by airscapes

@Phaedrux Return initiated and shipping shortly!!
This has been one of the best trouble shooting and return process I have ever had. Top notch and thanks you very much!

@deckingman My apologies, that was exactly what I needed, but took a bit more searching and test print to figure out how to implement it
In the S3D post processing box
{REPLACE "; layer 29" "M226/n; layer 29"}
Caveat is that the layer number must specify the layer to stop before it prints.. i.e. to stop after Layer 28 you have to enter 29..
Print head move to park as if you hit pause on the gui and once you are ready, hit resume. .. for those who come later looking for the same thing
Thanks!
Doug

I always print PETG at 230-235 any hotter and we get water pops unless the roll was just dried.. New rolls will sometimes need to be dried.. good luck finding the root cause

@Phaedrux Connection dropped once after replacement.. does not look like that fixed it.. Workaround using usb to disable/enable networking did work. I give up!
Will just live with it unless it starts happening much more frequently. Can't trouble shoot if it can not be reproduced on demand..

@phaedrux Thanks all is well!

@Phaedrux No it is not, so I went ahead and bent the arm of the switch moving the nozzle to the left a couple of mm which now produces a center build area on the plate. Sorry for wasting your time, I did not think that this would be the way to fix the problem but I guess since it seems to work, it is!

@Phaedrux I have installed the new Network Module. This second board has only failed 3 times that I know of making it very hard to diagnose. I did take photos of the solder joints of the header to board on both the old and new module as well as the top and bottom of the main board. I also looked a the surface mounted components on the module .. none of the joints look like they were cold or had large amounts of inclusions.. The photos are here.
Photos of Solder joints magnified
Now the waiting ..

@phaedrux I will have the board in a printed enclosure with active cooling fan like the Rambo. The enclosure has a small heater but is undersized on it's own but when the bed is set to 110C it keeps it at 100F with thermostatic control.

@jay_s_uk Thanks, Yes, I just positioned the machine to one of those points and I now I get it! I will update my macros to only include what the probe can reach, or at least make a note to myself to ignore those next time..

@Phaedrux
Hey, just removed a part from the bed, without moving it, just a smack with a wooden handle, came back to desk and duet disconnected.. really thought I had figured this out but bed movement is not what is doing it.. would explain why I can not reproduce it on demand by moving the bed..

@fcwilt said in Power Supply wiring question:

@airscapes

Yes - just double, no triple check your work before applying power. It's really hard to get the "magic smoke" back in.

Frederick

As an auto mechanic from a former career, I learned that lesson early on..

@oliof Thanks, all seems to work as it and apparently been that way for a long time, just was curious why. I am almost complete, just have to get the macros copied over, set the bltouch up, run a grid and test a print job. Thanks again!

@Exerqtor Ah.. all the way at the end.. I knew it was simple and just an upload but has been a while.. just figured that would be at the top of the doc or pinned someplace Hopefully I will remember next year!!!
Thanks for the quick response to a simple question.. I did know it would be simple and was reluctant to ask
Have a great holiday and a happy new year!
Doug

@EasyTarget That is what I have been doing and yes it works fine but one needs to baby sit the layer to stop. I will revisit this at a later time when I have more time to experiment. I did try the M226 but the other code must have messed things up as it did not work as expected.. think I probably need to use M226 with some way to wait x number of second before doing the code to resume.. Clicking the button to resume after M226 does not work as it did in Octoprint years ago. If I remember from what I had read and tired to understand.. M25 and M226 do the same thing but one is for data coming from the SD card gcode and the other the Gui?? Anyway, thanks everyone for the ideas and insight into your own experiences!
Also I found that coating the top of the washer with glue stick and heating it as was suggested worked best. I was using TPU so probably the easiest to get to stick...

@jay_s_uk said in Which Crimpers for Duet 2:

@airscapes I also use a PA-09 for pretty much everything except duet 3 motor connections. I've even crimped the tiny toolboard CAN-FD connections with the PA-09 with 100% success rate

Ok, sounds good, I really don't plan to do much after this one upgrade, but I am a tool guy (used to be an auto mechanic before getting into Unix admin work 25 years ago) I will probably need to be buried in shipping container with all this stuff nobody in the family will want! Just incase I have to work in the afterlife!
An probably not the fat fingers as much at the Old eyes and no magnifier where I am working! PA0-09 ordered.. others going back!

@Phaedrux Excellent explanations and exactly what I was not grasping, that make perfect sense now!! As you could tell I was fixated on the bed changing height since I had to deal with that compensation manually without the probe. probe to nozzle offset does not change other than the heat of the nozzle vs cold.
It is little details like that that those main instructions are missing. They are more quick reference to get you going but not detailed on "how it works" which I do understand since there are lots of different probes and printers.
Thanks again, I have to find some time to get back to the printer and spend a few hours to get it finished.

I believe I have found root cause of this issue am and maybe another with pause not working correctly form the M226 usage. One of the Y stepper motor wires was pushed up out of the connector and not making good contact. Whit Y homed and motor locked, wiggling the wire caused the motor to stop and start. Once pushed into the connector shell and locked the issues seems to be corrected... hopefully!

Replaced the stop switch and have not been able to reproduce the problem on demand as of yet.. Finished the current project without issues. Started the printer today and homed Y .. slowed half way to the switch but after that, could not reproduce it again. Will see what happens. I do not believe I have found root cause but will be a while until I use it again, so If you want to close this, that is fine, will just post any updates if the issue returns.
Thanks