@Phaedrux Return initiated and shipping shortly!!
This has been one of the best trouble shooting and return process I have ever had. Top notch and thanks you very much!

@deckingman My apologies, that was exactly what I needed, but took a bit more searching and test print to figure out how to implement it
In the S3D post processing box
{REPLACE "; layer 29" "M226/n; layer 29"}
Caveat is that the layer number must specify the layer to stop before it prints.. i.e. to stop after Layer 28 you have to enter 29..
Print head move to park as if you hit pause on the gui and once you are ready, hit resume. .. for those who come later looking for the same thing
Thanks!
Doug

I always print PETG at 230-235 any hotter and we get water pops unless the roll was just dried.. New rolls will sometimes need to be dried.. good luck finding the root cause

@Phaedrux Connection dropped once after replacement.. does not look like that fixed it.. Workaround using usb to disable/enable networking did work. I give up!
Will just live with it unless it starts happening much more frequently. Can't trouble shoot if it can not be reproduced on demand..

@phaedrux Thanks all is well!

@Phaedrux No it is not, so I went ahead and bent the arm of the switch moving the nozzle to the left a couple of mm which now produces a center build area on the plate. Sorry for wasting your time, I did not think that this would be the way to fix the problem but I guess since it seems to work, it is!

@Phaedrux I have installed the new Network Module. This second board has only failed 3 times that I know of making it very hard to diagnose. I did take photos of the solder joints of the header to board on both the old and new module as well as the top and bottom of the main board. I also looked a the surface mounted components on the module .. none of the joints look like they were cold or had large amounts of inclusions.. The photos are here.
Photos of Solder joints magnified
Now the waiting ..

@phaedrux I will have the board in a printed enclosure with active cooling fan like the Rambo. The enclosure has a small heater but is undersized on it's own but when the bed is set to 110C it keeps it at 100F with thermostatic control.

@jay_s_uk Thanks, Yes, I just positioned the machine to one of those points and I now I get it! I will update my macros to only include what the probe can reach, or at least make a note to myself to ignore those next time..

@Phaedrux
Hey, just removed a part from the bed, without moving it, just a smack with a wooden handle, came back to desk and duet disconnected.. really thought I had figured this out but bed movement is not what is doing it.. would explain why I can not reproduce it on demand by moving the bed..

Replaced the stop switch and have not been able to reproduce the problem on demand as of yet.. Finished the current project without issues. Started the printer today and homed Y .. slowed half way to the switch but after that, could not reproduce it again. Will see what happens. I do not believe I have found root cause but will be a while until I use it again, so If you want to close this, that is fine, will just post any updates if the issue returns.
Thanks

@airscapes Spoke too soon,, still doing it.. stopping halfway to the switch as if it were tripped.. about out of ideas.. already ordered oem switches so change to NC not in the card and is not a problem on the other M2 with DUET2 board.. so must be something else going on..

I believe I have found root cause of this issue am and maybe another with pause not working correctly form the M226 usage. One of the Y stepper motor wires was pushed up out of the connector and not making good contact. Whit Y homed and motor locked, wiggling the wire caused the motor to stop and start. Once pushed into the connector shell and locked the issues seems to be corrected... hopefully!

@jay_s_uk I thought there were pull down resistors on the inputs to prevent this? I have no such issue with the Duet2 board, same printer. I will try moving the wiring around to see if I can get anything to change.

Makergear M2, duet3 mini was 3.5.1 updated to 3.5.2 no change
Homing of Y works so this is not a Macro issue.
Y like the rest of the axis are Mechanical NO end stop switches. If I move the bed near the end of travel like to Y240 or greater,max travel is Y254, then when I Home Y, the bed will run at the normal fast speed for about 75mm or so then sort of stop and drop to the low speed for the rest of the travel, if it makes to the switch. Sometimes it stop and the GUI read -2 which is what it would read once the switch is triggered, but the bed is still no where near the switch. If I click home again, it will proceed at fast speed, hit switch, back up and little and go slow like it should.
The failure come when a print finishes fine and parks the bed at Y254 for part removal and then I click print again.. Y does not always make it home proper and the job starts. Work around is to home manually and make sure Y ends up at the switch. I have ordered a new switch but being it is NO and nothing is touching it, not sure how the board it getting a signal.. I have reset the connection but have not redone the connector.. again NO so I do not understand how a bad connection would do this
The Duet2 has LEDs to tell you when the switch is close, but not the Duet3 mini. I thought I read about a plugin for the gui that would tell you the status of the end stops? If there is such a thing can you point me to it and how to install it? This might shed some light on what is happening if it works in real time.. Any ideas as to what to look for next would be most appreciated. The wiring for Y end stop is wired tied to the frame so nothing is moving or flexing
Thanks! Doug

Axis and end stop cold

;##########################################################################################
; Axis Limits
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1                            ; set axis minimum
M208 X210 Y255 Z215.00 S0 	                ; set axis maximum

;##########################################################################################
; Endstops
M574 X1 S1 P"!io0.in"                        ; configure switch-type (e.g. microswitch) endstop for low end on X via pin io0.in
M574 Y1 S1 P"!io1.in"                        ; configure switch-type (e.g. microswitch) endstop for low end on Y via pin io1.in
M574 Z2 S1 P"!io2.in"                        ; configure switch-type (e.g. microswitch) endstop for low end on Y via pin io2.in

; homey.g
; called to home the Y axis
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.3.10 on Sun Nov 28 2021 16:12:33 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time)
G91               ; relative positioning
;G1 H2 Z5 F6000    ; lift Z relative to current position
G1 H1 Y-250 F1800 ; move quickly to Y axis endstop and stop there (first pass)
G1 H2 Y5 F6000    ; go back a few mm
G1 H1 Y-250 F360  ; move slowly to Y axis endstop once more (second pass)
;G1 H2 Z-5 F6000   ; lower Z again
G90               ; absolute positioning

G91 				; relative positioning
G1 H1 Z215 F3600	; move quickly to z axis endstop and stop there (first pass)
G1 H2 Z-5 F3600  	;go back a few mm
G1 H1 Z215 F360 	; move slowly to X axis endstop once more (second pass)
G90					; absolute positioning

;Y
G91               ; relative positioning
G1 H1 Y-250 F3600	;move quickly to Y axis endstop and stop there (first pass)
G1 H2 Y5 F3600 		; go back a few mm
G1 H1 Y-250 F360  	; move slowly to Y axis endstop once more (second pass)
G90               	; absolute positioning

;X
G91               ; relative positioning
G1 H1 X-215 F3600 ;move quickly to X axis endstop and stop there (first pass)
G1 H2 X5 F3600 	  ; go back a few mm
G1 H1 X-215 F360  ; move slowly to X axis endstop once more (second pass)
G90               ; absolute positioning

;G29 S2 ; unload any map
;G28    Home all  
;G1 F1000 X100 Y125 Z10 ; Center 10mm away 
;G30                    ; probe bed

@droftarts Thanks! There is also some weirdness with Y homing when loading a Hight map, so maybe the upgrade will take care of that as well.
Here are the 2 macros.. The pause and resume using the GUI works as expected and if I add the M226 at the start of the layer is is also working correctly for the most part.

; pause.g
; called when a print from SD card is paused
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.3.10 on Sun Nov 28 2021 16:12:33 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time)
M83            ; relative extruder moves
G1 E-10 F3600  ; retract 10mm of filament
G91            ; relative positioning
G1 Z5 F360     ; lift Z by 5mm
G90            ; absolute positioning
G1 X0 Y250 F6000 ; go to X=0 Y=250

Resume

; resume.g
; called before a print from SD card is resumed
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.3.10 on Sun Nov 28 2021 16:12:33 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time)
G1 R1 X0 Y0 Z5 F6000 ; go to 5mm above position of the last print move
G1 R1 X0 Y0 Z0       ; go back to the last print move
M83                  ; relative extruder moves
G1 E10 F3600         ; extrude 10mm of filament

Hi, trying to put an M226 within my Gcode to stop a print to insert a washer. This works hit or miss. If I place it at the start of a layer, it will work. If I take too long to put the washer in, once resume is hit, it will move back, sit there and present an error that it took too long. When I tried to add this in a different area (before infill) it will return to the stopping spot
and home z and just be unresponsive. I did a search and have seen post about similar behavior in older FW versions but nothing resent.

I would like this pause in the infilll rather than the perimeter if it will work that way but I have a feeling you are going to tell me that is why it is not working
; infill
G1 X104.847 Y60.348 F18000
;CUSTOM_GCODE
;PAUSE
M117 Insert washer
M226
;END PAUSE
G92 E0
G1 X105.014 Y60.515 E0.0193 F840

@EasyTarget That is what I have been doing and yes it works fine but one needs to baby sit the layer to stop. I will revisit this at a later time when I have more time to experiment. I did try the M226 but the other code must have messed things up as it did not work as expected.. think I probably need to use M226 with some way to wait x number of second before doing the code to resume.. Clicking the button to resume after M226 does not work as it did in Octoprint years ago. If I remember from what I had read and tired to understand.. M25 and M226 do the same thing but one is for data coming from the SD card gcode and the other the Gui?? Anyway, thanks everyone for the ideas and insight into your own experiences!
Also I found that coating the top of the washer with glue stick and heating it as was suggested worked best. I was using TPU so probably the easiest to get to stick...

Sorry if this is not the proper place to put this. I am still using antient S3D (the devil I know). I have the need to stop a print at layer 11 to insert a fender washer and goggle is not helping me. I have found the code to insert from years ago which worked with antique Marlin but I can not find what I need for the current Duet firmware.
I am fine inserting it directly into the gcode at the start of the layer just need the proper code of a link to the "How To" document I have yet to find. Yes most of the current slicers have this option .. not looking to move to a new slicer yet.
Gee.. just had a novel idea.. just paste in the code from the pause button script.. testing now.. NOPE..

@chrishamm Yes, as I said in previous post, the current 64bit OS was dog slow on this old pi, so reinstalled an older 32bit version and all works as it does on windows.