Best posts made by 3DPrintingWorld

I just updated to RRF 3.2 and now I can not find the endstop status screen on DWC. Previously the status was shown under the settings menu in the "Machines-specific" screen but it is not longer shown since I updated firmware. Did it get moved somewhere?

@gloomyandy That's good advice, I'll take it.

Glad you can check status with the M119 but I'm confused as to why the visual status has been removed as it was a nice feature.

It works perfectly, and is very slick looking while in action!

Here is my homey.g if anyone else is doing something similar. You can also find the entire configuration on my github, if it helps anyone out. Just give me some time to get it updated.

Up next, giving ends topless homing another try. But first, some multi-material prints as now my nozzles will now stay perfectly aligned.

Thanks for the help but I'll be back....

; homey.g

G91 ; relative positioning
G1 H2 Z5 F6000 ; lift Z relative to current position
G1 H1 X475 U-475 F1800 ;Rough home X and U axis
G1 H1 X475 ; home X axis
G1 H1 U-475 ; home U axis
G1 X-15 U15 F6000 ; go back a few mm
G1 H1 Y500 F1800 ; move quickly to Y axis endstop and stop there (first pass)
G1 Y-5 F6000 ; go back a few mm
M584 Y1 ; Y-axis right side
M574 Y2 S1 P"ystop" ; Y-axis right side endstop Active
G1 H1 Y15 F360 ; move slowly to Y axis endstop once more (second pass)
M584 Y2 ; Y-axis Left side
M574 Y2 S1 P"e1stop" ; Y-axis left side endstop Active
G1 H1 Y15 F360 ; move slowly to Y axis endstop once more (second pass)
M584 Y1:2 ; Combine Y-Axis
M574 Y2 S1 P"ystop+e1stop" ; Y Double max active high endstop switch
G1 Y-5 F6000 ; go back a few mm
G1 H2 Z-5 F6000 ; lower Z again
G90 ; absolute positioning

@Phaedrux neverminded, I found fallback procedure 3.

@martin7404 That is great news Martin!

@fcwilt At one point I tried that but I went back to having everything in the homeall because it really does save some time, epically considering that this printer has an additional U axis. It is really nice and clean though, maybe I'll revisit it once I get this mess figured out.

@Phaedrux I plan on moving to a new thread and only cover one topic, I just wanted to try a couple things before I do but I have not had the chance.

@fcwilt Sorry, I should have said low current.

@dc42 said in Duex5 Endstop Issue:

It's not bad practice

Ok, good to know! I would consider this problem solved since I am not seeing any issues since updating to 3.2.2

@fcwilt Yep, you were there.

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/21833/independently-leveled-z-axis-issue/11?_=1614653001596

@fcwilt Ok, I'll look into it.

@fcwilt & @Phaedrux, sorry I forgot that I already tried this but it did not work. Here was the explication from DC.

"On a CoreXY printer, if either the X or the Y endstop switch triggers, all motors must be stopped. Your printer isn't CoreXY, but it has a matrix for which some motors affect more than one axis. If I remember correctly, on MarkForged kinematics, movement of the Y motor causes X (and U) movement too. So when one Y endstop switch triggers, if the other Y motor were to continue moving, it's not clear whether the X and U motors should continue to move if the firmware moves just the other one. That's why the firmware stops all motors when an endstop switch is triggered."

@fcwilt Logically, you would think that it would be possible but when I ask DC this was the response.

"It's undefined whether the X and/or U motors should also be moved when moving just one of the Y motors.
The code that decides whether to stop all motors or just one in this instance is the same code that decides whether to stop all motors or just one when you are homing several axes simultaneously. If you were to home e.g. X, U and Y all at the same time, it would still be necessary to stop all motors when any endstop switch is triggered."

I you would like to see the entire thread, you can find it here.
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/17408/dual-y-axis-endstop-homing/20?_=1614738863955

I also have a (dual) Markforged printer and to weigh in a little on the racking issue. I agree with @fcwilt, two Y-axis belts is a good idea or you have to have a very ridged bearing setup like on the Mark one.

Notice the solid one piece gantry with two bearing on each end spaced apart to keep it from skewing. This allows them to get away with just one Y-axis drive. Personally I think its better to add another belt to keep it square considering it does not add any moving weight like additional bearings and a heavy gantry. If you want a IDEX though, it makes more sense to double up on the markforged, which will also equal out the racking forces.

I think its a good thought, but I'm not sure I understand the purpose of locking the carriages to save a stepper. You would just be adding more moving weight, as the second motor on a dual markforged is parked on the frame.

You are welcome to check out my project, it might give you some ideas at the very least. https://github.com/3dprintingworld/MULDEX

Thanks @fcwilt, think you finally helped me realize my issue. Only four points makes the map much easier to understand.

When I first ran the mesh the left back corner was really low. I have a glass plate on top of a sheet magnet. I am only using glass because I wanted to verify the bed was flat.

I'm clipping down the bed in the back center left and front center right. I moved both clips to center right and reran the mesh and the low corner goes away!

Upon further inspection of the magnetic sheet shows small cracks where it starts to turn blue in the first map. I think these crack are causing the issue. I'll remove the magnet an put the glass directly on the bed tomorrow and give it a try.

@fcwilt said in Independently leveled Z axis Issue:

Why the G29 S3? The G29 S0 creates the height map and loads it.

Sorry I should have deleted that, I was making edits to mine before I posted it.

@fcwilt said in Independently leveled Z axis Issue:

@martin7404 your 4 point height map suggests your bed is quite level.

Martin is just bragging!

I think my issue might be the magnetic sheet cracking causing a ridge making it not flat in the back left corner. I'm going to take off the magnet tonight and give it a go with just glass on on aluminum. I just cant be down too long because I'm behind on parts.... I need to build more printers.

My bed has ever been as flat as I would have liked it. I may take a skim cut off the top. Has anyone had good luck attaching a silicon heater back on after its been removed?

@Phaedrux I get it, video or it didn't happen. I should have started the extruders in the middle of the bed for effect.

https://youtu.be/LK6dmPArw2k

Thanks for the help! It turns out changing M201 worked perfectly fine from the start. I expected to see a larger amount of ringing between accelerations but I was printing fast enough as I forgot to turn up perimeter under speed.