Unable to get a quality print with the Duet2wifi yet.
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@chriskimbr
Ref the temperature. What I meant was, are you sure that what the temperature reads is correct? If you have the wrong values for the particular themistor then it could be reading high so what you think is 215 might be a lot less.I'm not normally a betting man but from what I've seen of your videos and from what you've said, I'd put a great deal of money on the fact that the problem lies with a partial blockage of your hot end - despite the fact that you say otherwise.
Is it an all metal V6 clone or a lite version V6 clone? i.e does it have a PTFE liner going all the way through the heat break? How much retraction are you using or have you been using? The most common cause of problems such as yours with E3D V6s and clones thereof is either heat creep or too much retraction causing semi molten filament to be drawn up into and beyond the heat break where it swells and solidifies, causing a restriction.
If the hot end is an all metal clone, consider buying a genuine E3D Lite heat sink - they aren't too expensive. These are much less prone to the sort of problem I have outlined because the PTFE liner runs all the way through the heat break. The down side is that you'll be limited to using no more than about 260 deg C.
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The temperature is obviously incorrect on the duet wifi
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You can use a calculator such as this one to calculate a new beta value for your thermistor since you already have a multimeter w/ thermocouple. Just take the first measurement at 25C and the second at your normal print temp and you'll have the values you need to use the beta value therm model. This process will probably get you more accurate results than component info from gearbest.
Since you were running at '230' (actually higher due to non-calibrated temp readings) there's a chance the ptfe liner is damaged as well as it starts to degrade above 240.
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@nhof I changed the m305 line to have this instead, now it reads temp correctly.
M305 P1 T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 R4700 S"Hot End Heater" ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1My C"" value was wrong, from someone else.
The new thermistor i got with my genuine v6 assembly rocks, its a cylendar instead of a cheap wire thermistor.
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@chriskimbr said in Unable to get a quality print with the Duet2wifi yet.:
The new thermistor i got with my genuine v6 assembly rocks, its a cylendar instead of a cheap wire thermistor.
Sorry but I can't keep up with all the various threads you keep starting. In this one you mention a clone V6, then I learn from another thread that you've bought a genuine V6. I see you also have yet another thread asking about calibrating the extruder. People don't have the time or inclination to keep dodging between all these various threads to find out what hardware you are currently using and what changes you've made regarding calibrations and configurations. I suggest you keep to a single thread or if you start a new one, mark the others as solved.
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@deckingman Sorry, will do. I've been troubleshooting trying to figure out the problems and solutions.
I'll try to do better at what you described.
I appreciate your guys' help. -
why dont you contact a freelance printer installation technician
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@mercytrigris said in Unable to get a quality print with the Duet2wifi yet.:
why dont you contact a freelance printer installation technician
Most likely because he would have to pay for the service. Whereas asking questions on these forums will elicit free advice from other users.
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@chriskimbr Do you know the maximum current of the motors?
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@obeliks Tried looking it up for Tronxy X5sa couldn't find what the max current is for steppers.
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Do you have something written on the motor?
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@obeliks I'll look and get back to you
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Extrusion issue:
Print starts fine, first layer, next layers, looking good.
Then the fillament isn't extruding. I hit pause, i extrude manually, doesn't extrude for a second then it comes out. unpause and it is extruding ok, but will repeatedly stop extruding after a little bit.Did this on my other extruder, have a new one now, does the same thing.
Using Genuine V6 hotend e3d
weird. -
M305 P1 T100000 B3950 C7.060000e-8 R4700
that is neither correct for a genuine nor a clone.
so you are prob printing at the wrong temperature -
Assuming the temperatures are reasonable it's usually going to be one of the following
- Trying to extrude too much volume - V6 tops out around 8-10mm^3/s. Overworking the extruder can cause grinding and plastic buildup in hobs.
- Too much tension on the filament feed - tangled filament, long feed distance, etc.
- Very quick retractions tearing the filament out and filling hob teeth
- Incorrect tension on extruder hobs. Too tight would result in grinding and overworking the motor, Too loose would result in slipping.
- Thermal issue such as a broken fan causing heat creep up the heatbreak - this causes jams.
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@veti im printing with this updated line;
M305 P1 T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 R4700 S"Hot End Heater" ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1 -
so the config you posted isnt the one you are using for printing?
also your M350 X32 Y32 Z32 E32 I1 does not work with interpolation. I1 only works at 16x.
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have you tried cura or slicerpe? in case you have misconfigured something in simplify3d like your filament diameter
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@veti Per someones reccomendation, i changed the C7.060000e-8 since its incorrect.
That fixed my problem with reporting wrong temps...also your M350 X32 Y32 Z32 E32 I1 does not work with interpolation. I1 only works at 16x.
What do you reccomend i change this line to? -
x16 microstepping with interpolation is usually the ideal way to go, since it's quite and smooth and doesn't pose undue load on the CPU. The exception to this would be the extruder, where it can be best to increase the microstepping to the point where your extruder steps per mm are in the range of 400-800.
