[not yet solved] Tevo Little Monster DuetWifi errors
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I'll look at that next mine was the tevo_lm one
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the first one I looked at was cura the stab was S3d
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@phaedrux said in [help] Tevo Little Monster + DuetWiFi + DuetTouch7" errors:
@giostark at the minimum just g28
Can you post some screen shots of your slicer configuration?
Sure...
Those files come from the web...are not mine.The tab not reported are not configured (all unchecked)
About the start and end script:
Start: empty...i dont know is appropriate for the duetwifi
end:
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
G91 ;relative positioning
M83 ; RELATIVE EXTRUSION
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 ;move to endstops
M84 ;steppers off
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ; RESTORE ABSOLUTE EXTRUSION
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OK if you downloaded the Code files from the web then I would discount them totally and work with raw STL files and slice them and see what you get
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Maybe start with a simple cube printed in vase mode or such you will soon see whats happening without wasting to much filament/time
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0_1537814313478_stab.stl
0_1537814322221_Tevo_LM_Duet_Adapter_v1.stlThanks really ,
What I should insert as "start script" ?
The Z negative make sense if it stay always on the same layer...(the 1st lower) -
From what I have studied the code whoever did it has a large negative offset which could account for it looking that way but it does seem to increment by 0.2 each layer but if you start at - 0.5 wish then it is doomed to failure if you need to start at 0.1 say I think you need to forget downloading other peoples gcode and start from your own
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So the fact that the print dont rise on the Z axis depend on the slicer?
Those settings work before with the original mobo. With this duetWifi not.
Probably because are completely different hardware and software.
In any case if someone can suggest the starting script or something for avoid the negative Z should be really useful
I found the cube... I'll try some test...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38108/files -
@giostark Delta's aren't really my thing so maybe @Dougal1957 can tell you more specifically what to put in your start script but at the very least you need to home the printer. The slicer will handle the temperatures.
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Nothing to do. Nor the cube , nor the stab.
The same mess. I tried to print from S3d via usb and I have seen Z negative all the time and positive just when retracting.... -
Hi there...i was close to give up. But ! I tried Matter control and it seems to make rise the head as it should be (via usb). It use the Matter Slice slicer embedded in it. I could try also with the cura engine and SD variant and report if it work.
The phenomenon that now happen is strange (but probably common for you "expert") , the printer print the fist few layer(in real i dont understand well when the material is posed) than it seems that the extruder block it self and consume the filament in the same place. Is like the extrusion and retraction didnt work regularly.
Of course if i try the extruder by it self it work well. Also the retraction work well.
Im printing ABS with nozzle at 250 and glass bed at 110. (are working settings with the past configuration). Fan 0%.Just in case . Can you suggest a good extruder for my tevo? Any hardware upgrade is well accepted. The link on the guide is broken. It seems that is no more available the extruder suggested. https://www.bondtech.se/en/product-category/extruders/
Maybe the nozzle? A titan original one?
If you need more info just ask thanks
At the end of this I'll make a summary that can be useful for other ...
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Progress , I'll update with all the necessary info and Ill' open a new 3ds.
I calibrated the extruder (steps for mm and multiplier) . The MatterControl seems to work for rising the Z axis.
Also , I still continue to have trouble with consumed filament . I suppose is because a wrong setting in retraction but i have to still figure it out if is retraction or something else.
Just because i followed this howto and the settings should be fine, the culprit can be in the fist layer too close the bed....
Im looking for this howto that explain the cause of this "bite" on the filament:
https://airwolf3d.com/3d-printing-tips/mouse-bite/0_1538080498366_20180927_195753.jpg
https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/retraction-just-say-no-to-oozing
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@giostark There are a few reasons it could be grinding into the filament like that.
- e steps not calibrated properly and it's trying to over extrude too much and it can't push the filament out fast enough
- trying to extrude at too low a temperature perhaps because the thermistor is reading too low
- extruder tensioner arm is too tight or too loose
- Nozzle too close to the surface to extrude properly
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Hi there!
I need some improvement before I write how I make this conversion to work properly(with my setup).
Yep was the 4th. I supposed that because no material was released on the glass. (of course now the z-axis offset must me related to the layer height(0.1 - 0.2 - 0.4 ecc).
Now I'm facing with the settings for have a decent print with ABS.
I have some pads but im trying directly on glass so:1)Do you suggest to try those pads for have a better adhesion or try some esoteric solution directly on glass again ?
2)About printing : nozzle 250 , bed directly on glass 115/120 (cleaned with alcool 99,9%)
I have some trouble with the shape it self. I tried with 30% fan close the nozzle and 0%.
And I noticed that on tiny part at 0.1 layer I had to use the fan a 30% (near) for avoid melting. But on bigger part I need to power off the fan for avoid detachment from the bed.
But hell I printed 6 part and all have the same problem (despite different settings , layers height ecc)
It seems that the geometric shape come deformed in 2 point. (the left of the shorter sides). All those 6 parts have the same problem. The quality of the long side is interesting but the shorter ones really are wrong.
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@giostark For best results with ABS and glass, clean with 99% alcohol and then put a coat of PVA glue stick on it and use a high bed temp 90c-100c with a slow first layer. Make sure the fan is off. ABS will warp and crack with even a small amount of fan, or if the room is cold and draughty.
It's hard to tell from your photo if it's a matter of the perimeters being too fast and pulling the filament away from where it should be, or if it's a problem with your delta calibration.
If you print a simple XYZ cube how does it look?
Do you have PLA to use for the tuning process? ABS has it's own challenges that can complicate matters.
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Ok I lowered the temp of the glass to your suggestions. I build the enclosure proper for avoid the cold issue.
My speed is settles to 45mm/s and the first layer to the 30% of that speed.
Im supposing could be a Z -lift trouble...the head rise and when come down hit the glass...I'll try to set 0 as default (now is 2mm).The cube is pretty good damn. Seems as from a fusion (the thickness is near 0.5) :
Could be the time for upgrade also the BL-touch with some more accurate.
About this have you idea for one good sensor ?
Next month I'll take for sure the Nema 17 ( 0.9 degree) for all axis and also for the extruder.edit:
I tried but seems that there is something wrong BEFORE the process start.
Look at the picture (I had to put the memory close because the reflection, the phone have not manual focus) is wrong even the first layer!
The long strait lines are convergent and not parallels. Mmmm....
Is like are sent wrong coordinates.
I'll try also the other engines for slice the part
edit2: I tried also the cura engine and it present always the issue of NOT rising the Z-axis more this convergent one. So the cura engine is not work properly with this printer or with this firmware (1,2x+) ?
The bottom short layer is wrong as well.
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That cube looks great. Now if you measure the size of it, is it 20mm all around?
Every Z probe type has some pros and cons. There is no perfect sensor. The BLTouch has the advantage of working on all bed surfaces and you can even switch surfaces without having to make any configuration changes. But it has the disadvantage of having a nozzle offset which can be more of an issue for a delta in cases where the effector may tilt slightly at different parts of the bed.
There are also varying quality of BLTouch probes out there. The only BLTouch I would currently recommend anyone use is the latest genuine BLTouch-Smart V2. I've had very good results with it and it looks like any design issues with the older style probe have now been resolved.
For a delta, the Smart Effector may be the best choice, but it has its own requirements. It has the benefit of using the nozzle tip as the probe, so no offset. It also has some very nice connectivity features for the delta built right into it. You may need to make some changes to get it mounted though.
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Thanks for all the suggestions , I'll investigate !
Have a look at above post...I edited it with pictures
The cube is near to be regular. The digital caliper report near 24.80 for both sides (should be 25 i guess). But is so thin that if I press with the caliper for take the misure it deform. -
Late to this thread: Here's a link to the contents of my sys folder, since we have similar machines / you ref'd the guide I'd made.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1G31JnKJED3diQKI7Ett58GNsw1T73qRD
Note that I'm using .9 deg steppers, not the stock 1.8 ones.
@dc42 : The "Upload file" button on the forum here doesn't work, it only lets me upload images (and there's an upload image button next to it).Also, here is the FFF file I use that goes with those settings. Note that I'm using a 1.2 mm volcano nozzle with petg, but it may give you something to start with.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DU0TlTwxl11pbpXNqD7qz9wD5uk7tnS1
You'll see that I moved all my 'start / end' scripts into custom macros in the above zip.I'm also using the bondtech BMG extruder with a E3D pancake stepper on it, and I swapped out the hotend to be genuine E3D parts.
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Thanks also to you Eric!
Im facing all the mess of the configuration. Im trying lots of different settings. And I have seen that if I dont use the Z-lift in retraction the plastic became a mess.
Today I'll order the better motors! (following the link of your guide)
And the bondtech BMG seems not still available on the bondtech site. (your link is dead) Could you suggest an alternative or something similar?edit:
Did you set stepper drive backword for? The polarity of the new motor is reversed?
