[not yet solved] Tevo Little Monster DuetWifi errors
-
@phaedrux the file I have checked have no Z Moves at all in fact the only Z character is at the start to zero the extruder no wonder everything is printed on top of each other it is as if the layer height has been set to 0
-
I was looking at the stab.gcode.
-
@phaedrux said in [help] Tevo Little Monster + DuetWiFi + DuetTouch7" errors:
I was looking at the stab.gcode.
Ah...ok
So what do you would insert as start script? -
@dougal1957 said in [help] Tevo Little Monster + DuetWiFi + DuetTouch7" errors:
@phaedrux the file I have checked have no Z Moves at all in fact the only Z character is at the start to zero the extruder no wonder everything is printed on top of each other it is as if the layer height has been set to 0
Ok im facing with all my ignorance...so do you mean the same as Phaedrux?
-
@giostark at the minimum just g28
Can you post some screen shots of your slicer configuration?
-
I'll look at that next mine was the tevo_lm one
-
the first one I looked at was cura the stab was S3d
-
@phaedrux said in [help] Tevo Little Monster + DuetWiFi + DuetTouch7" errors:
@giostark at the minimum just g28
Can you post some screen shots of your slicer configuration?
Sure...
Those files come from the web...are not mine.The tab not reported are not configured (all unchecked)
About the start and end script:
Start: empty...i dont know is appropriate for the duetwifi
end:
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
G91 ;relative positioning
M83 ; RELATIVE EXTRUSION
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 ;move to endstops
M84 ;steppers off
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ; RESTORE ABSOLUTE EXTRUSION
-
OK if you downloaded the Code files from the web then I would discount them totally and work with raw STL files and slice them and see what you get
-
Maybe start with a simple cube printed in vase mode or such you will soon see whats happening without wasting to much filament/time
-
0_1537814313478_stab.stl
0_1537814322221_Tevo_LM_Duet_Adapter_v1.stlThanks really ,
What I should insert as "start script" ?
The Z negative make sense if it stay always on the same layer...(the 1st lower) -
From what I have studied the code whoever did it has a large negative offset which could account for it looking that way but it does seem to increment by 0.2 each layer but if you start at - 0.5 wish then it is doomed to failure if you need to start at 0.1 say I think you need to forget downloading other peoples gcode and start from your own
-
So the fact that the print dont rise on the Z axis depend on the slicer?
Those settings work before with the original mobo. With this duetWifi not.
Probably because are completely different hardware and software.
In any case if someone can suggest the starting script or something for avoid the negative Z should be really useful
I found the cube... I'll try some test...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38108/files -
@giostark Delta's aren't really my thing so maybe @Dougal1957 can tell you more specifically what to put in your start script but at the very least you need to home the printer. The slicer will handle the temperatures.
-
Nothing to do. Nor the cube , nor the stab.
The same mess. I tried to print from S3d via usb and I have seen Z negative all the time and positive just when retracting.... -
Hi there...i was close to give up. But ! I tried Matter control and it seems to make rise the head as it should be (via usb). It use the Matter Slice slicer embedded in it. I could try also with the cura engine and SD variant and report if it work.
The phenomenon that now happen is strange (but probably common for you "expert") , the printer print the fist few layer(in real i dont understand well when the material is posed) than it seems that the extruder block it self and consume the filament in the same place. Is like the extrusion and retraction didnt work regularly.
Of course if i try the extruder by it self it work well. Also the retraction work well.
Im printing ABS with nozzle at 250 and glass bed at 110. (are working settings with the past configuration). Fan 0%.Just in case . Can you suggest a good extruder for my tevo? Any hardware upgrade is well accepted. The link on the guide is broken. It seems that is no more available the extruder suggested. https://www.bondtech.se/en/product-category/extruders/
Maybe the nozzle? A titan original one?
If you need more info just ask thanks
At the end of this I'll make a summary that can be useful for other ...
-
Progress , I'll update with all the necessary info and Ill' open a new 3ds.
I calibrated the extruder (steps for mm and multiplier) . The MatterControl seems to work for rising the Z axis.
Also , I still continue to have trouble with consumed filament . I suppose is because a wrong setting in retraction but i have to still figure it out if is retraction or something else.
Just because i followed this howto and the settings should be fine, the culprit can be in the fist layer too close the bed....
Im looking for this howto that explain the cause of this "bite" on the filament:
https://airwolf3d.com/3d-printing-tips/mouse-bite/0_1538080498366_20180927_195753.jpg
https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/retraction-just-say-no-to-oozing
-
@giostark There are a few reasons it could be grinding into the filament like that.
- e steps not calibrated properly and it's trying to over extrude too much and it can't push the filament out fast enough
- trying to extrude at too low a temperature perhaps because the thermistor is reading too low
- extruder tensioner arm is too tight or too loose
- Nozzle too close to the surface to extrude properly
-
Hi there!
I need some improvement before I write how I make this conversion to work properly(with my setup).
Yep was the 4th. I supposed that because no material was released on the glass. (of course now the z-axis offset must me related to the layer height(0.1 - 0.2 - 0.4 ecc).
Now I'm facing with the settings for have a decent print with ABS.
I have some pads but im trying directly on glass so:1)Do you suggest to try those pads for have a better adhesion or try some esoteric solution directly on glass again ?
2)About printing : nozzle 250 , bed directly on glass 115/120 (cleaned with alcool 99,9%)
I have some trouble with the shape it self. I tried with 30% fan close the nozzle and 0%.
And I noticed that on tiny part at 0.1 layer I had to use the fan a 30% (near) for avoid melting. But on bigger part I need to power off the fan for avoid detachment from the bed.
But hell I printed 6 part and all have the same problem (despite different settings , layers height ecc)
It seems that the geometric shape come deformed in 2 point. (the left of the shorter sides). All those 6 parts have the same problem. The quality of the long side is interesting but the shorter ones really are wrong.
-
@giostark For best results with ABS and glass, clean with 99% alcohol and then put a coat of PVA glue stick on it and use a high bed temp 90c-100c with a slow first layer. Make sure the fan is off. ABS will warp and crack with even a small amount of fan, or if the room is cold and draughty.
It's hard to tell from your photo if it's a matter of the perimeters being too fast and pulling the filament away from where it should be, or if it's a problem with your delta calibration.
If you print a simple XYZ cube how does it look?
Do you have PLA to use for the tuning process? ABS has it's own challenges that can complicate matters.
