My Leadscrew based 3D printer
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@supraguy said in My Leadscrew based 3D printer:
Also, the way that the Y end stop is mounted (On the moving platform, because it allowed me just enough more travel before it gets triggered) [...]
Oohhh, I like this idea!
I might have to copy this for my printer. 
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Well, there has been a bit of error to my trial and error. I ended up redesigning the gantry pieces to be more secure and give a bit more room for the screw motors. As it was, the hot end couldn't go all the way to the bed. (Didn't expect that problem!)
Then during testing for the piezo sensors, the hot end got dragged over the bed a couple of times, and then the PSU crapped the bed. Some rather alarming noises, then a blown fuse on the AC power line. I don't think the Duet was damaged, when powered by USB, it seems okay, but now I need to wait for a new supply to finish testing.
I intend to reverse the board when I mount a 120mm fan which will cool the back side of the board. I will use a step-down dc supply to provide 12V for that fan. The fan cooling the E3D V6 is currently a 24V fan, but I'll probably change it to 12V if/when it dies, since 12V fans are much easier/cheaper to buy. -
Work continues. I've just been informed that the power supply that was supposed to arrive last night was delivered this afternoon, so hopefully I can get back to tuning and tweaking, maybe even get a test print off soon.In this picture, the two wires hanging loose are the heat bed wires. You can just see the connector at the right edge of the frame.
I put pin headers on some experimenter board that I had lying around to extend the pins for the Y axis parts. There are 2 sets of 3 pin headers (Y axis endstop, Z probe) on one side, and a set of 2 pin and 4 pin headers on the other (Bed thermistor, Y axis motor) which spaces them nicely. I'd have rather not had the extra connectors, but this does solve the problem of the wires not being quite long enough to get there, and allows them to be disconnected and changed in a location that I can get to.
I need to fasten down the wiring a little better in a few places, set up the signal wires so that they cross the power wires at more of a right angle, but I ran out of zip ties, of all things. once that's done, then I'll be able to do the final trim on the heat bed wires and make it all nice and neat.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlCJIydoAzY
It's almost there. I'm still having some tuning issues with the piezo sensors, and I think that I need to make some adjustments to things to make the base of the frame a little more rigid. I had originally planned on reinforcing the frame with angle aluminum, but then I neglected to put the provisions in place. (Not that it's difficult to drill a couple extra holes) I think that the frame reinforcements will help with the piezos, too.
In the video, you can hear that the Z motors whine a little at probing speed. I'm running the Z motors pretty fast, because of their fine pitch, but I found that at lower speeds, the piezos didn't trigger as well. I'll try to slow them down again when after I stiffen the frame.
I really do like the acryllic's aesthetics (Though I might have wished for a different colour) but it does require some thought to make things rigid enough.
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Is your X axis not perpendicular to the Y axis?
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I'm pretty sure that it's perpendicular to within about an eighth of a millimeter over the length of the rods. It would be difficult for it to be out by more than that unless the laser cutter on which the parts were made is somehow out of square. (The holes for the screws that mount the X towers are about 0.125mm larger than the screws that go through them, so there is a possibility that the towers are not perfectly centered over those holes.) This gives a +/- of about 0.019 degrees off of square. I think that I can live with that.
The home routine moves both X and Y to the endstops first, then probes Z at the centre of the bed, then moves the nozzle back to the corner.
Lead screw driven printer, powered by Duet 2 Wifi
MPCNC powered by Duet 2 Wifi
CoreXY printer driven by Duet 3 6HC
LowRider CNC powered by Duet 2 Wifi -
Looking good. I like the red.
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@supraguy said in My Leadscrew based 3D printer:
I'm pretty sure that it's perpendicular to within about an eighth of a millimeter over the length of the rods. It would be difficult for it to be out by more than that unless the laser cutter on which the parts were made is somehow out of square. (The holes for the screws that mount the X towers are about 0.125mm larger than the screws that go through them, so there is a possibility that the towers are not perfectly centered over those holes.) This gives a +/- of about 0.019 degrees off of square. I think that I can live with that.
The home routine moves both X and Y to the endstops first, then probes Z at the centre of the bed, then moves the nozzle back to the corner.
Must just be the angle of the camera or X axis isn't level? They look pretty far off in that video.
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@tjb1 said in My Leadscrew based 3D printer:
Must just be the angle of the camera or X axis isn't level? They look pretty far off in that video.
Could be the gantry not being level. I thought that I took that after leveling the gantry, but it may have been before. The gantry is about as level as it can be NOW -- at least to within whatever accuracy I'm getting from the piezo sensors. I had a bunch of complaints that it was outside of the 1mm adjustment range that the adjustment will make automatically, so I had to do a lot of the levelling manually. (I might instead just choose to increase the avaialable adjustment if I have to fix this again.)
Looking at the video timestamp, I can see that it was immediately after replacing the power supply, so the gantry was definitely not level. That's since been fixed.
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Okay, that looks a lot better. (In that it's at least mostly a plane, and doesn't look like I'm trying to print on wet corrugated cardboard, not that this is a great result!) I have a little compliance in the front right of the bed when probing, so that corner shows a little lower than it should, the rest pretty much is a sloped plain, slightly lower to the front. I had plans to figure out how I was going to make adjustments, it seems that it's time to put those into action. The map looks terrible in that scale though.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8WD4v3DnZ8
You can't really see the compliance in the first couple of probes (Weird, I'd have thought that any would be on the other side, since that is further from the sensors there.) Apparently the autofocus hadn't quite figured it out yet.tghere. This video the axes should look straighter, since I know that I had leveled the screws at this point.
