Tevo Little Monster - mesh grid results
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Oh, and the mesh bed compensation values should be loaded by adding this to the slicer's start gcode section:
G29 S1 ;load and apply mesh bed calibration values -
Hello guys,
i have spent the last days to get rid of my issues with this little monster, but it seems that nothing works...
i have installed the E3D V6 instead of the volcano. i have tried 8-factor and 9-factor with mesh grid values loaded and without.
The extruder steps/mm are exact calibrated.
Always i ran the auto delta calibration with 9-factor the lenght of my rods changes between 397mm and 404mm.
The heightmap also looks always different anytime i ran the mesh compansation.i thought about to purchase the full kit of the smart effector + magballs rods with 360mm length, but i dont know if this going to help.
The first layer always looks different. My settings in Simplify are with 30% ouline overlap but in the picture it seems like i have to change to 100% overlap to reach the outline in the right part.
I am doing something heavily wrong and i dont know what it is...
Should i get the smart effector?
Should i get rid of the tilt in my heatbed?
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What type of Z probe does the TLM use? For delta printers, a nozzle contact Z probe is recommended. Any type of Z probe that is offset from the nozzle Neill be sensitive to varying effector tilt, which his hard to eliminate completely on a delta printer.
Eliminating the bed tilt is a good idea, if you can do it easily e.g. by putting shims under the bed supports.
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hello dc42,
the TLM uses the BLTouch as Z probe and the Y offset to the Nozzle is approximately 19mm.
The Heatbet is glued with silicone...
I am going to try in the next step to remove it carefully to get the heatbed as leveled as possible.I have just started the same print twice and i noticed that the second print slightly shifted in X direction.
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@malkem
I originally had a microswitch based z probe sensor
The microswitch was inaccurate mainly because it deformed the bed on contact quite a bit.Then I changed to an inductive sensor, which was even more inaccurate because of the effector tilt.
Then changed to smart effector:
The smart effector -according to my experience- is very precise, and needs a wey small tap to activate, it does not deform the bed in any meaningful way.BTW, I have/had the same disconnected wall problem with cura 3.2.1 Increased the flow rate to 105% and set one more wall on every second layer, which seem to solve the problem for me.
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No matter what i do, i got always the same gaps if printing from the left to the right side. left side looks perfect while printing to the right side i got gaps between the printed lines.
it seems like i have a mechanical issue, but i cant figure out what it is. maybe one of the stepper motor loosing steps?
I cant believe this is just because of the z probe.My heated bed are now flat and not tilted anymore.
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@malkem said in Tevo Little Monster - mesh grid results:
No matter what i do, i got always the same gaps if printing from the left to the right side. left side looks perfect while printing to the right side i got gaps between the printed lines.
it seems like i have a mechanical issue, but i cant figure out what it is. maybe one of the stepper motor loosing steps?
I cant believe this is just because of the z probe.That's probably due to varying effector tilt. See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer. Mounting a bulls eye spirit level on the effector is a good way to detect effector tilt.
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I am going to place a order for the smart effector and the magball arms and just give it a try.
Anyone knows if 360mm arms enough for the tevo little monster? i cant find 400mm arms in the duet3d shop
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If you need 400mm arms you can order them directly from Haydn Huntley.
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Now its done. i have ordered the smart effector and the 400 mm arms by Haydn Huntley. i hope the delivery doesnt take too much time and hopefully its gonna improve my prints.
thanks so far for your help! i will keep you guys updated.
