BLT function

droftarts

@Bridge-Of-Don xCenter and yCenter are defined by these two lines:

var xCenter = move.compensation.probeGrid.mins[0] + (move.compensation.probeGrid.maxs[0] - move.compensation.probeGrid.mins[0]) / 2 - sensors.probes[0].offsets[0]
var yCenter = move.compensation.probeGrid.mins[1] + (move.compensation.probeGrid.maxs[1] - move.compensation.probeGrid.mins[1]) / 2 - sensors.probes[0].offsets[1]

It uses the bed mesh grid set by M557, so if you don't have this set, the numbers will be 0.

We cannot get the 'Home' functions to work unless I send M564 S0 H0, we don't have any MACROS

05/06/2024, 09:30:21 G28 X
Error: in file macro line 8: G1: insufficient axes homed

You do have macros; you have the homing macros in /sys folder, homex.g, homey.g, homez.g, homeall.g. I expect in the homex.g macro (and maybe the others) you have this move:

; increase Z
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 Z5 ; move Z relative to current position to avoid dragging nozzle over the bed
G90 ; absolute positioning

If the Z axis is not homed, you will get an error, because G1 Z5 is a 'normal' move. It should be G1 H2 Z5. The H2 makes it a move that ignores the machine limits. See https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Reference/Gcodes#g0g1-h-and-s-parameter

Also I seem to have an issue with the bed temperature

There's an error in your config.g. You're using the same temperature sensor (T1, the one for the nozzle) for both bed and nozzle:

; Heaters
M950 H0 C"e0heat" T1 ; create heater #0
...
M950 H1 C"e1heat" T1 ; create heater #1

Change the M950 H0 entry to T0.

For the actual sensor configuration:

M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" A"Heated Bed" T130000 B4725 C7.06e-8 ; configure sensor #0
M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" A"Nozzle" T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 ; configure sensor #1

I know these are the defaults for thermistor values in the config tool, but they are unlikely to be correct. Do you know what thermistors are being used? Your bed is likely to use a standard thermistor. Your hot end looks like an E3D V6. So you are likely to get more accurate temperature reporting if you use the following:

M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" A"Heated Bed" T100000 B3950     ; configure sensor #0
M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" A"Nozzle" T100000 B4388 C7.06e-8 ; configure sensor #1

Ian

Bridge Of Don

@droftarts
Ian, magic those are the pointers we need.
I'll stick with the X150 Y150 as it does no real harm?

I didn't think that the 'Home, X, Y, Z & ALL were 'macros'

Yes the Home X, Y, Z macros onlyhave G1 Z5, again from the 'default' config created by RepRap

The Home ALL is subtley different, so I'll just add the H2 to the three others to avoid issues

No idea what thermistors or heaters are fitted, although both the thermistors are sitting at around 130000 Ohm when at room temp so happy to change to your suggestion.

easy to swap the M950 H0 T1 to T0, I was looking at the wrong part of the code ie the sensors M308

I'd assumed that the Heaters was the connections for the power out, not measuring the result ?

Ref the text "e1heat", should this read "bed"? just for clarity going forward? we plan to leave it plugged into the 'Bed Thermistor' input now proved that it works.

I think we are now getting to a stage where we need to tidy the wiring by removing the random bits of cable and connectors (lots of the wires at extruder have 3" extensions & plugs on each end) no idea why.....

then possibly can report back next time a functioning unit ?

droftarts

@Bridge-Of-Don said in BLT function:

I'll stick with the X150 Y150 as it does no real harm?

That's fine!

I didn't think that the 'Home, X, Y, Z & ALL were 'macros'

Anything that's a bit of code that can be called is effectively a macro, so all gcode in /sys is effectively a macro, just isn't in the /macros folder!

Yes the Home X, Y, Z macros only have G1 Z5, again from the 'default' config created by RepRap

Thanks, this appears to be a bug in the config tool, I have alerted @chrishamm. Change them to G1 H2 Z5.

both the thermistors are sitting at around 130000 Ohm when at room temp

That probably means room temperature is about 20C. The T value is the resistance at 25C.

Ref the text "e1heat", should this read "bed"? just for clarity going forward?

I guess the output is controlling a Solid State Relay (SSR), which turns the bed on and off? If so, you can use either, as the SSR shouldn't draw very much current. If you do change it to 'bed', you'll need to move the wires to the SSR to the heated bed output.

Ian

Bridge Of Don

@droftarts said in BLT function:

both the thermistors are sitting at around 130000 Ohm when at room temp

That probably means room temperature is about 20C. The T value is the resistance at 25C.

Ref the text "e1heat", should this read "bed"? just for clarity going forward?

I guess the output is controlling a Solid State Relay (SSR), which turns the bed on and off? If so, you can use either, as the SSR shouldn't draw very much current. If you do change it to 'bed', you'll need to move the wires to the SSR to the heated bed output.

Ian

Ian
Aye the heated bed has a stonking big SSR to control it and it is wired into the Bed output, so it will have to be on/off rather than anything fancy like PWM?

although it switches the 'negative' supply?!

I think I'd be happier changing this to the bed output connection as per image? as then it makes life simpler for anybody trying to follow what we have fixed/corrected, rather than fudged?

@droftarts said in BLT function:

M950 H1 C"e1heat" T1 ; create heater #1

I assume the text should be

M950 H1 C"bedheat" T1 ; create heater #1

so that this controls the correct output for the bed if using the 'High Current Heated Bed'?

This is an example of the wiring that needs 'tidied'

PS I'm glad that it wasn't just my wrong doing about the 'default config'
Thanks again

Alan

Bridge Of Don

Progress

ALL the X, Y & ALL homing work, I had to add H2 to a few places at the end of each routine, maybe not 'elegant' but fixed error messages

; decrease Z again
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 H2 Z-5 F6000 ; move Z relative to current position
G90 ; absolute positioning

Still to fix the wiring for nozzle thermistor but at least the sensors are correct and the temperature reading moves with the sensor (if I swap them), so maybe a blessing that one wire was broken?

Alan

droftarts

@Bridge-Of-Don said in BLT function:

I had to add H2 to a few places at the end of each routine

That's correct, as again Z may not be homed, so you would get an error message when it tried to move back to the original Z height. Again, I've alerted @chrishamm to this, so he can update the config tool to fix this. Thanks!

I think I'd be happier changing this to the bed output connection as per image? as then it makes life simpler for anybody trying to follow what we have fixed/corrected, rather than fudged?

Using an SSR to control the heated bed isn't a fudge. Unless you know how much current the bed draws (you can measure the current to get an idea), I'd leave it in place. The Duet 2 bed heater output can support a bed that draws up to 15A, but it's possible that the replacement bed draws significantly more than that. For example, a 300x300mm bed that draws 15A would have an output of 360W at 24V, and a resistance of 1.6ohms, and should be able to get to 100C.

You can use PWM control, rather than bang-bang, on an SSR, but you might have to slow down the switching frequency. Check the manufacturer's datasheet for the SSR.

Also worth checking if the heated bed runs off the same PSU as the Duet, or a different one which could be wired to the SSR. What PSU(s) is/are fitted? Output voltage and current or wattage capacity would be good to know.

Ian

Bridge Of Don

@droftarts
Ian, by 'fudge' I meant connecting the heated bed to a different 'output' it already has wiring from the 'BED HEATER' to the SSR and so I'd rather leave that as it is, saves (over)loading the Duet board and simpler to swap a SSR than a Duet

I can check the SSR specs as well to see how fast it can be switched, especially if using PWM will give a more consistent temperature across the bed....

Not sure about the power supply's spec (and away from the shed now for a few weeks) but I assume that if it was working previously then I'll leave alone?

If not enough supply amps then I'm sure i have some Switched mode supplies 'lurking' in garage.

We greatly appreciate the help given so far!!!

Alan

droftarts

@Bridge-Of-Don said in BLT function:

it already has wiring from the 'BED HEATER' to the SSR

If that's the way it was wired already, then yes, the config.g is still a bit wrong. The bed heater 'traditionally' uses sensor 0 and heater 0, and the first hot end as sensor 1 and heater 1 (slightly confusing because this becomes 'Tool 0').

I think there's another error; from your picture in this post https://forum.duet3d.com/post/339699 it looks like the hot end heater is connected to e0heat (two white wires that go through the back panel), not e1heat:

The hot end thermistor is, I guess, the yellow and white cables connected to e0temp. I'm not sure why it's reading -273C, when I think you said you measured 130000 ohms. Perhaps you changed something else? I think the thermistors and heaters should be set as:

; Sensors
M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" A"Heated Bed" T100000 B3950     ; configure sensor #0
M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" A"Nozzle" T100000 B4388 C7.06e-8 ; configure sensor #1

; Heaters
M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0 ; create heater #0
...
M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1 ; create heater #1

I also notice you have the two Z motors connected to the Z axis motor connector. That's fine, because they will be synchronised and work together, but you could connect one of the motor to the spare E1 motor output. This would allow you to level the bed, at least across the X axis, using the BLTouch. This is how I have my TronXY set up currently (at least until I change it for three motors and a kinematic bed). See https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Z_probe_auto_levelling
But maybe one step at a time...!

Ian

Bridge Of Don

@droftarts said in BLT function:

@Bridge-Of-Don said in BLT function:

it already has wiring from the 'BED HEATER' to the SSR

If that's the way it was wired already, then yes, the config.g is still a bit wrong. The bed heater 'traditionally' uses sensor 0 and heater 0, and the first hot end as sensor 1 and heater 1 (slightly confusing because this becomes 'Tool 0').

I think there's another error; from your picture in this post https://forum.duet3d.com/post/339699 it looks like the hot end heater is connected to e0heat (two white wires that go through the back panel), not e1heat:

The hot end thermistor is, I guess, the yellow and white cables connected to e0temp. I'm not sure why it's reading -273C, when I think you said you measured 130000 ohms. Perhaps you changed something else? I think the thermistors and heaters should be set as:
; Sensors
M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" A"Heated Bed" T100000 B3950     ; configure sensor #0
M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" A"Nozzle" T100000 B4388 C7.06e-8 ; configure sensor #1

; Heaters
M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0 ; create heater #0
...
M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1 ; create heater #1
I also notice you have the two Z motors connected to the Z axis motor connector. That's fine, because they will be synchronised and work together, but you could connect one of the motor to the spare E1 motor output. This would allow you to level the bed, at least across the X axis, using the BLTouch. This is how I have my TronXY set up currently (at least until I change it for three motors and a kinematic bed). See https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Z_probe_auto_levelling
But maybe one step at a time...!

Ian

I'll change the config to match this latest from yourself,

I reckon that it is better to stick with the 'traditional' wiring arrangement

the multi plug (yellow/white) is in e0temp, and are broken off up at extruder hence the 'open circuit'....maybe not a great previous photo?
this is a 'square-on' view to show plugged into E0 Temp & E0 Heater

the two thicker white wires do eventually appear at the extruder, in different colour(s)

As for fancy bed levelling I'm happy to stick with the two Z motors in synch and if needed it is a simple matter of using a test block at each side to 're-level' if they get out of synch, so aye 'one step at a time'

Alan

Bridge Of Don

@Bridge-Of-Don
I am happy to report that we have today successfully manged to print off a small 'cube'.
We still need to fine tune the heaters both on control (to prevent overshoot) and actual temperature but at least it functions.
We used the 'AstroPrint' web based slicing option and downloaded the G-codes to the PC then 'uploaded' them to DWC, maybe not the most elegant of solutions but it works.
We like the ability to 'fine tune' the slicing within the 'AstroPrint' as hopefully we will learn as we go-along.

I'm away again for a week, then home then away, so will have nowt to report for a little while.