Resin prints not sticking to build plate
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Hey guys, new to to 3D printing here.
Just bought the mars pro 3 and attempted to print off the test rook that is included on the usb.
First print worked fine but since then I cannot get anything to connect to the build plate at all. I have tried about 6/7 times now, each time emptying the resin from the vat back into the bottle and giving the build plate and fep a thorough clean. I have leveled the build plate plenty of times and seem to be following tutorials and what I did to begin with exactly but all I seem to get now is two circles stuck to the fep after every print.
Does anyone have any idea what I am doing wrong? -
@carlile76 First of all, it's not necesarry to empty the VAT every time.
I don't know about Mars FW, but my Photon M3 has a 'detection'-menu point where you can expose the whole screen (or selected parts of it ) with UV light. That way you can remove failed prints easily.
You can use an old piece of support structure (or one of the test-rooks) to remove the thin layer of the detection procedure: Just place the support structure at the corner of the exposed screen-part and push it down while exposing. Wait a few seconds and then you can peel the layer off by pulling on the support piece.Re: prints don't stick to the workplate.
Dialing in the bottom layer exposure time and the amount of transition layers is the most important. Is there an exposure-calibration-file on your USB-stick? (called R_E_R_F on my photon-stick)
Print that and find out the right exposure time (usually around 1.5 - 3sec). Multiply the time by 10 to have a starting point for bottom exposure time.I slice the part with very slow lift speed during the first few layers. Later I manually raise the speed from the touchscreen menue.
PS: I highly recommend using Lychee slicer and UVtools (github link)
Lychee comes with a huge library of printer and resin profiles.
UVtools is good for postprocessing the sliced files. You can also check and modify the timings used in the rook-file. -
@o_lampe Thanks for your response
do I not need to empty the VAT even if I have a failed print that is stuck to the FEP? I have used the clean tank function which does allow to peel away a sheet of cured resin so I am pretty sure it is clean.I cannot see any setting on the printer from the usb no? The thing is I have already printed an initial test print of the rooks using this same file so am not sure why now it would suddenly stop working?
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@carlile76 Maybe there is a mechanical reason for the fails? Leveling the printplate is the only thing you can do and it's usually very simple.
Check the spindle for play, maybe there are loose grub screws?On my printer the anti-backlash nut was mounted wrong, after I turned it around I had much less failed prints. Now the spring and gravity work in the same direction.
