Mounting a radial fan on the Smart Effector
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That looks perfect. What model number is that fan, if you don't mind me asking, I've not seen a tiny blower fan like that on general sale?
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Here is a couple of pics showing how I have mounted a 40x10 blower fan.
http://preview.ibb.co/ftRzAm/fan.jpg
http://preview.ibb.co/d2BzAm/IMG_20171023_162724.jpgLooks good, is there any parts to 3d print to make this work? Also whats the noise like compared to a standard 40mm fan.
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12 volt fans.
Edit: The listing for the 12 volt fans on ebay has been discontinued. Search for 40x10 blower fan and you'll find both 12V and 24V.
24 volt fans.
I did have to print some small pieces to attach to the effector and for the nozzle end. Then I just hot glued the fan to both pieces. Away from that computer with the files, but will try to remember to get them up.
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Also whats the noise like compared to a standard 40mm fan.
Missed this earlier. I can't hear it over the 30mm hotend fan.
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https://1drv.ms/f/s!Aubeh9qhGMnugRJP1NWykcZDVWFM
Let me know if this works for getting the files.
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Thanks! I have issues with one sided air flow, so I will try and make a mount for the other side to give it another fan.
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I have tried. Just not enough room. But, I am trying to keep both fans vertical and inside the effector.
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I used 2 4010 radials and no nozzles. I positioned them while running, and found they actually had a very focused, but far off axis flow of air. Due to this I had to have them pretty off axis to get the air in the right spot without going below the nozzle. I have one blowing just across the front side of the nozzle, and one blowing just off the back in the opposite direction, and it has a nice swirling flow of air right at the tip, with no warm spot under the extended side of the heater block. They stick out from the effector slightly. I could get them inside of the effector with 3010's and a nozzle, but I am finding that it doesn't matter, and the fans sticking out don't get in the way.
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They look really off, but the air flow is pointed directly in front of and behind the nozzle.
I might give an aquarium air pump a try if I can find one that will flow enough air to keep the entire area under the block cool.
I have seen people plumb a hose into bent copper rings right around the nozzle fed by a pump. I don't remember the name of the design, but it is well known. I don't think I will like that, as I really like the extra air flow that cools the entire area…but I might try it sometime.
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Berd Air is the one with the copper tubing.
My old effector had two of these fans on opposite sides of the hot end. With the same type of nozzle I have on now, it did just that. Created a swirl pattern around the tip.
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I just realized that I had uploaded the wrong fan to effector mount that was in the previous link a few posts up. It has now been changed.
I also included a mount for the hot end fan (30mm) that drops the fan down and away 10mm.
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12 volt fans.
Edit: The listing for the 12 volt fans on ebay has been discontinued. Search for 40x10 blower fan and you'll find both 12V and 24V.
24 volt fans.
I did have to print some small pieces to attach to the effector and for the nozzle end. Then I just hot glued the fan to both pieces. Away from that computer with the files, but will try to remember to get them up.
Ive bought from this seller on Aliexpress and after 40 days of no delivery doesn't want to give refund like their buyer protection, which sadly automatically closes at 40 days.
EDIT: Seller did just refund after all.
I did find them on ebay at the same price by searching for 24v Fan 4010S.
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I too have been experimenting with different blower fan mounts. I tried my design with 40x40x20mm and 45x45x10mm blower fans but these seem to be just a little too big to fit on the effector assembly and to not reduce the printing area. I just got the shipment for the Gdstime 40x40x10mm blowers and adapted my design for those. I already printed the parts but haven't yet had time to install those, so they might or might not fit
I'll post more pics after i try these.
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I'll give it a try. Looks like a nice design. Test printing now.
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Had to move the ducts forward 10mm to get the air on the nozzle. Without it just blows 10mm behind the heater block. Works great and I love how it looks. Great design job. I'm reprinting now in transparent to see if it helps the LEDs reach.
Thanks again.
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Oh yes good point. Thanks for that. The exit hole is aligned with the nozzle but the airflow itself goes behind the nozzle. Gotta reprint mine now. Also have to make a slight adjustment on where the fan exit meets the shroud
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Here is my contribution to that topic
http://a360.co/2gUIpMk
The same style of model cooling duct Ive used for a long time and the only disadvantage is that the view on the model is blocked by the torus.
It uses a 50mm radial fan that unfortunately reaches over the effector and therefore has to be angled away. Not a problem on my machine but that increases the footprint of the print head quite a bit.
The airflow on the opposite side of the fan is still noticeably weaker but at least the air angles downwards. I usually never use more the 60% power on the fan, 40% would probably be fine and also noise relevant.I haven't heard much about the "swirly" method of adding two fans. Would be interesting to see the exact airflow.
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Two fans tucked under the effector. I had to relocate the plug for the hotend fan as well as the jumper for the LEDs to the top side.
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I edited it to remove the front brace that blocked the LED light, and extended and moved the duct to fit a volcano heater block. I printed in clear to soften and spread the LED light. Test print worked great, printing a final now.
Do you mind if I post this to thingiverse to share the file? Of course I will credit you for the initial design.
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Really like the mount idea where it's attached to the side of the effector instead of strictly below.
Currently reworking an old first design for 40mm radial, I'll go with a 2 part pieces mount. Due to the size, I add issues with the duck part, finally I've designed it like a cap to put over the blower exit , I think it'll be easier to reprint only the cap in order to match needs.
I'll post it here once printed
