Prints are warping
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@günter-jibben I used the M558 command you posted, hee is the result:
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@tratoon
At first glance it looks better, but to judge it more precisely you would have to be able to see the map from the side.Before the next leveling, check the rollers of the print head and adjust them very precisely so that the print head has no play but does not run heavily.
You should also check all the screws and the belt tension.Google Translate
----- Original Text -----Auf den ersten Blick sieht es schon besser aus, aber um es genauer zu beurteilen müsste man die Map schräg von der Seite sehen können.
Kontrolliere vor dem nächsten Leveln mal die Rollen vom Druckkopf und stelle diese sehr genau ein so dass der Druckkopf keinerlei Spiel hat aber auch nicht schwer läuft.
Auch alle Schrauben solltest Du mal prüfen und auch die Riemenspannung. -
@günter-jibben I just got this height map after adjusting on of the X-Axis eccentric nuts:
Along with a substantial Z-Offset Message -
@günter-jibben said in Prints are warping:
I think 400 measuring points (With a print bed size of 350x350mm) is absolute overkill
That depends: to verify the surface of your print bed, it's fine, but I agree that it consumes way too much time if you create a new mesh frequently, e.g. from your start.g.
Gruß von der Küste
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@tratoon
Found a bug I would say.
BravoHave a look at the linked thread, where I determine the Z offset with macros.
I think then your printer will be a bit more precise and the manual leveling is more accurate and also more fun.If you have decided to use the macro method, please send us some screenshots and tell us what you think of it.
Google Translate
----- Original Text -----Fehler gefunden würde ich mal sagen.
BravoGuck Dir den verlinkten Thread gerne mal an, dort wo ich den Z-Offset mit Macros ermittle.
Ich denke dann wird Dein Drucker noch etwas präziser werden und das manuelle leveln ist genauer und macht auch mehr Spaß.Schick gerne mal ein paar Screenshots falls Du Dich entschieden hast die Macro-Methode zu nehmen und erzähle was Du davon hältst.
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@günter-jibben I do MBL by sending G32 and defining where my adjusting screws are in Bed.g
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@tratoon said in Prints are warping:
I just got this height map after adjusting on of the X-Axis eccentric nuts
That looks much better. If you now level your bed more precisely, you're done.
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@günter-jibben And by maco method, you refer to the Post you linked in one of your previous posts, right?
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And the macro method is used to level the bed right?
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@infiniteloop said in Prints are warping:
@günter-jibben said in Prints are warping:
I think 400 measuring points (With a print bed size of 350x350mm) is absolute overkill
That depends: to verify the surface of your print bed, it's fine, but I agree that it consumes way too much time if you create a new mesh frequently, e.g. from your start.g.
Gruß von der Küste
I agree.
It's too much for everyday use, but to find out exactly how my record looks, especially if you plan to grind the record to see where you can grind more and where not... then I would also go to more measuring points to tend.Greetings back from the North Sea coast
Google Translate
----- Original Text -----Sehe ich auch so.
Für den Alltag ist es zu viel, aber um mal zu erfahren wie genau meine Platte aussieht, besonders wenn man vor hat die Platte zu schleifen, um zu erkennen wo man mehr schleifen darf und wo nicht... dann würde ich auch zu mehr Messpunkten tendieren.Grüße zurück von der Nordseeküste
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Just cleaned the X and Y wheels here is the result:
Will use G32 to level bed and then set Z offset.
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@günter-jibben said in Prints are warping:
It's too much for everyday use
Right.
Greetings back from the North Sea coast
Natürlich Nordseeküste - es kann nur eine geben
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@tratoon said in Prints are warping:
@günter-jibben And by maco method, you refer to the Post you linked in one of your previous posts, right?
Yes, exactly.
Read it to decide if it's something for you.
At least I will no longer manually adjust my print bed with a sheet of paper or a spring steel sheet.
I only need a spring steel sheet (feeler gauge) once to determine the Z offset, and then never again... unless I change the nozzle.Google Translate
----- Original Text -----Ja, genau.
Lese es Dir durch um zu entscheiden ob es etwas für Dich ist.
Ich zumindest werde mein Druckbett nicht mehr mit einem Blatt Papier oder einem Federstahlblech manuell einstellen.
Ein Federstahlblech (Fühlerlehre) brauche ich nur einmal um den Z-Offset zu ermitteln, danach nie wieder... außer ich wechsel die Düse. -
@infiniteloop said in Prints are warping:
@günter-jibben said in Prints are warping:
It's too much for everyday use
Right.
Greetings back from the North Sea coast
Natürlich Nordseeküste - es kann nur eine geben
Hehee ... Ich wohne in Norden, und hier ist es heute brütend heiß.
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@tratoon said in Prints are warping:
Just cleaned the X and Y wheels here is the result:
Will use G32 to level bed and then set Z offset.
This is how you can work
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@günter-jibben What is the most definitive way to find the Z-Offset
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@günter-jibben said in Prints are warping:
Ich wohne in Norden, und hier ist es heute brütend heiß.
Ich auch, aber unter meiner Reetmütze bleibt es schön kühl
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@infiniteloop, @Günter-Jibben I keep getting the Z-Datum error, and I keep setting Z=0 to where a 0.04mm gauge will fit in, but it still gives me the error
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I keep setting G92 Z0, but whenever the printer finishes probing or I restart the printer, it goes back to old height
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@Günter-Jibben @infiniteloop Actual Z0 for me is -1.35 from where it is now. I set it as Z=0 using G92 Z0, but it keeps going back to the original position, after probing and after restarting the printer.