Please help me tune my custom printer
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First pic:
possible retraction needs increasing, but not sure about this yet. Do you have an end gcode to move the nozzle away from the print (there's that thing on the top of the chimney).
Underextrusion: either your E steps/mm is off, or your extruder isn't pushing fully, or your filament diameter/ extrusion multiplier is off. May also check that gap fill is turned on.
Nozzle too hot or insufficent part cooling: the droop at the back hole and roof bottom.Second pic:
Chimney: definitely needs more part cooling. More evidence of droop at the roof bottom as well.
Those lines on the outside of the hull: either z banding or over extrusion.
More evidence of droop at the roof bottom suggestingThird pic:
Can see letters on bottom. Good.
Again, underside of hull. More part cooling. Only 1 or a few "zit" visible here, retraction seems ok.5th pic:
Least flattering image of the bunch
So, what slicer, what settings are in it wrt what I mentioned above…?
Nice machine, I see no part cooling fan and what seems to be a bowden extruder.What extruder are you using? Very easy for a cheap extruder to miss steps/ extrude unevenly.
What nozzle size? If it's bigger than 0.4 (ie 0.6mm and up) we're in "fat lines" business and I change my approach significantly.
If it's a volcano style nozzle (seems to be) then your plastic will stay hot much longer and the part cooling fan is even more important. -
Will answer software later tonight when im with the laptop
Nozzle genuine E3D volcano 0.4mm (new not warn) the unit was designed to super rapid printing hence voice of hotend (0.6mm was original intention customer wanted custom pcb jig hence they 0.4 in situe)
There is a part cooling fan but due to my adhesion issues the cooling fan lifts my parts worse (the pictures above are without fan)
Extruder is E3ds titan on a bowden set up with a good sized motor.
Thanks both for feed back so far as said i will post the slicer settings when im home
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How long is the Bowden tube and what length retraction are you using with it. I think you'll see the largest improvement by dropping the hot end temperature unless you are printing at very high speed. The volcano has a large melt chamber and you'll find that for "normal" speeds you can use a much lower temperature than you have been used to. My hot end also has a large melt chamber and I regularly print at 10 to 15 degrees below the manufacturers recommendations because it gives me far better results. But try and see - every printer is different.
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I will try that now and tube is 700mm long with 3mm retraction
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Ian I have a 300x300mm machine with Volcano 0.8mm on it and stopped using this one because I cannot sustain the filament requirements
Of course I'm building a machine for each hotend type I have, so it's ok. And I have a big E3D box.
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Ian I have a 300x300mm machine with Volcano 0.8mm on it and stopped using this one because I cannot sustain the filament requirements
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So you wouldn't like my 350 x 375 x 750 with 5 colour Diamond that takes 5 reels at a time
I also have a 0.9mm diameter Diamond but that's only 3 colour. I bought it for printing T Glass but having re-mortgaged the house to buy 3 reels of T glass, I'm saving it for something really special -
Oh, I read your other comment about this. This was in response to that.
I would love it, but I'd have to make a version with a 0.2mm nozzle for myself so that I could use 5 filament color scraps instead of 5 reels.
If we count all my half-built/ torn apart frames, I now have 20 printers.
Deltaprintr Delta Go
Vslot Mini Kossel
P3steel (makerfront i3, heavily modified)
2 x Wanhao Duplicator i3 - heavily upgraded. First one just became my best printing machine, second one is getting a diy 4x y splitter like prusa multimaterial.
Duplicator i3 Plus. On the list for modifications.
3 custom designed sheet metal based on CNC machanics - this is the 300mm^3 frame.
Also have 1 where this was a box frame from 20x40 extrusion instead of a folded sheet metal frame.
Yellowjacket (small 200x200 of the same frame type)
Still have the 80/20 Frame from the gmax I tried to build as my first printer.
600x600mm frame from 20x40 vlsot
5 frankenbot. Our clone of the old laser cut wood Printrbot Plus, BOM around $125.DICE.
I spend over $250 buying 18kg of PLA at a time from Microcenter.
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right guys part cooling fan and abs seams to fail regardless of what I'm trying ? maybe its to powerful… ? print bite temperature settings ? bed 115deg and hot end 220deg ? what do you guys think to retraction settings ?
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how is best for me to upload the simplify 3d ff file ?
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now things have gotten harder i tried updating the firmware with he web interface and it restarted as i had expected but can't connect to it both online and through usb ?
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What firmware versions were you upgrading from and to? Did you read the upgrade notes first?
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original wifi firmware to the most recent 1.19.2 followed this https://duet3d.com/wiki/Updating_WiFi_firmware_or_DuetWebControl_files
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Did you read the upgrade notes?
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No just looked at instructions i was in a rush to get updated because of the heated bed issue. Is it fixable ?
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Yes, but now you will need to install the new DuetWiFiServer.bin by copying it to /sys on the SD card in a PC. The upgrade notes link to https://duet3d.com/wiki/Upgrading_to_DuetWiFiFirmware_1.19.
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looking at this only one issue i can't connect to the printer through usb (i will get another usb cable to double check) even after the erase and reset having spoken to Roland this afternoon
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just not working for me but i am coming up to the nec tomorrow may be better in person if i bring the board up ?
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Right chaps board is back from repair thanks to me not reading the instructions
while it was away i have done loads of hardware mods main one is cutting the top off with my cmc mill and wedding a new one on (first one was in stainless and it warped) everything is working fine aside from the bed temperature input showing 2000 Deg c my config file has not changed checked the resistance of the sensor 100 ohm ish at room temperature not sure whats gone on there can anyone help out ?
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just to isolate board issue i changed it out for my brand new duet wifi at the same problem is it because of the new firmware change ? i have a p100 temp sensor for the hot end and I'm using the on board thermistor connection next to the heated bed power out ?
