Bed heater tuning questions
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@Tpmoses said in Bed heater tuning questions:
We had a power surge that toasted a length of wire to the bed,
Might be time to inspect the heater pad itself if possible.
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@Phaedrux I cut the wire to have a pigtail and tested it with my meter, still has continuity. The length of Wire that I cut out had no continuity on the live wire. but still had it on the neutral, When I replaced the wire I also added a ground to the bed that connects to common.
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@Phaedrux I have talked to my boss, he is open to me replacing the mat, and my best guess at doing that and avoiding future heartache is to replace it with 4 say 500x500mm ones. any suggestions? I'll know if I go that route I need to get 3 more SSRs but I'm not sure what type of heaters I should get that wont make my boss mad at me for spending too much money.
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I am also not sure how I would integrate that into the duet 2 wifi board
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Well the only thing that makes bosses more mad than spending money is spending good money after bad money. Buy once cry once.
Having 4 smaller zones might be beneficial if you aren't always printing full volume parts. Only heating a sector might be faster and cheaper to run. But remember you're still attached to the other sections of the bed and they will draw a lot of heat away.
There's also the added complexity. Controller 4 heaters for the bed on the Duet you'll need enough ports and still need to figure out how to tune it for all heater function.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_a_bed_heater
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Spurious_heater_faults_and_how_to_avoid_them
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Tuning_the_heater_temperature_controlThat's where I would buy my heater pads from. They will do custom options too.
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@Phaedrux I am going to make another thread asking questions, I think I have found the heaters I need. The big thing I need to figure out now is how to wire them up. Thank you for all your help
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Get a custom one made. They don't cost all that much, and you can just get the exact size you need to avoid the hassles of either specing them to run in series, or dealing with multiple thermisters and heaters from the control side. I would recommend a thermal switch (manual resettable) that is just above your max temp range incase the SSR fails closed (does happen). Alternatively, you could add a contactor that will trip if a fault occurs (more industrial oriented persons will prefer that method).
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@hamel The problem is time, this machine is used to make parts that are then used to make molds for fiberglass parts. A custom replacement wouldn't be here till May.... I already checked. Four smaller ones can be here by Monday. Ultimately its not my decision to make, bosses liked the faster option.
