Help me get connected to my Duet2Wifi
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Alright, you're up to date on the RRF2 versions. Up to you if you want to move to RRF3 and want help configuring the printer.
Otherwise you can get a config from the online tool.
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@Phaedrux what are the benefits on RRF3? Also do I need to use 3.3v or 5v for the BLtouch V3.1?
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RRF2 is no longer being updated, so future development is on RRF3.
It's more flexible in how pins can be used and assigned. It allows for conditional gcode and soon variables for doing some programming of macros and things like skipping the homing sequence if it's already homed, or automating the leveling sequence.
More detail here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/RepRapFirmware_3_overview
For the most part the difference isn't huge. If you're already really familiar with RRF2 config files it can take a bit of getting used to, but if you're new to the firmware, it's no different than learning RRF2. It's really just the formatting of a few commands that has changed.
For the BLtouch, connect it like this: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_a_Z_probe#Section_Duet_2_WiFi_Ethernet_without_a_Duex_2_or_Duex_5_expansion_board
Since I assume you don't have an existing configuration for this printer already I figured it might make more sense to go with RRF3 off the bat.
Either way the web config tool would generate a new config file set for 2 or 3.
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@Phaedrux Ok since I have not been connected to the board in a while and need to relearn the workings I agree I should update the firmware to RRF3 then. I can update firmware from the interface correct?
The BLtouch documentation you linked says to use 5v but the config tool says it will damage the board. Kind of confused by the contradictory info on the power input. "Make sure you change it to use +3.3V instead of +5V before you connect it or you risk damaging your board!" is what it says in the config tool in the BLtouch section. Either that message is incorrect or the documentation is out of date.
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@Kwad3d said in Help me get connected to my Duet2Wifi:
I can update firmware from the interface correct?
Yes. YOu can update it in the same way as we updated to 2.05.1.
First upload this zip file for 3.0 and reboot.
https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/3.0/Duet2and3Firmware-3.0.zip
Then upload this zip file for 3.1.1 and reboot.
https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/3.1.1/Duet2and3Firmware-3.1.1.zip
@Kwad3d said in Help me get connected to my Duet2Wifi:
config tool says it will damage the board.
As I said, the recent BLtouch since V2 make this a non-issue. You said you had a 3.1. If your hardware revision of the duet wifi board is 1.03 or newer it's irrelevant as well. On the old V1 BLTouch and most clones you need to cut a trace on the BLtouch, but that's no longer the case.
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@Phaedrux SO I was able to reconnect to the board after the RRF 3.o update but Im not connecting after the 3.1. Do I need to update files on the SD card again? Or do I just need to wait a while for this update to finish before I can reconnect. its been like 5 minutes
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Connect to the board via USB terminal again and send M115 to see if the main firmware is now 3.1.1. If it is, then send M552 to see if the board has enabled the wifi module and got an ip or not.
If that doesn't give you an IP address to connect to, send M997 S1 to reflash the wifi firmware. Sometimes it needs to be reapplied going from 3.0 to 3.1.1.
After it's been reflashed, send M552 S1 to try re-enabling the wifi. It should reconnect at that point.
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@Phaedrux Yes the new firmware is on the board. I confirmed the IP and reconnected to the board. At this point can I set up the BLtouch in the config tool and put it on the SD card or will I need to download and replace the www files again to match the new firmware?
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Ok, good, now that you're connected and the firmware is up to date you're good to go on that front.
When you go through the configurator try and fill out all the boxes to the best of your knowledge with the details of your printer. It might help to load one of the premade printer profiles to look at just to see what a completed one looks like before making your own.
At the end of the configuration process it will give you a download link to get a config.zip file that will contain a bunch of files. You can go to the system tab in the web interface and use the upload button there to upload that config.zip file. It will reboot and your configuration will be in place.
At that point you can edit those files manually in the web interface if you need to.
When your config is in place you can use some steps like those described here for testing the motors and fans and heaters etc.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+3:+Commissioning/39
Come back if you have any questions. If you get really stuck, you can describe the printer and we can generate a config for you to start with. Eventually it pays to get used to editing the config files yourself. If you're unsure what a command does, look it up in the gcode wiki. https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#main
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@Phaedrux Ok thanks for you help and patience. The printer was designed to use senseless homing so I will have to read the documentation on it and update the homex and home y files to get that working correct. I also had a question about how the mesh leveling works. Will the parts of the bed where the probe cant reach be estimated based on the mesh or does it revert to no compensation in these areas?
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@Kwad3d said in Help me get connected to my Duet2Wifi:
The printer was designed to use senseless homing so I will have to read the documentation on it and update the homex and home y files to get that working correct.
You can choose sensorless as an endstop option in the configurator, but you will likely need to do some tuning.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Stall_detection_and_sensorless_homing
@Kwad3d said in Help me get connected to my Duet2Wifi:
Will the parts of the bed where the probe cant reach be estimated based on the mesh or does it revert to no compensation in these areas?
Yes it will extrapolate to the areas it can't reach, but it's not perfect. If there is a unexpected peak or valley it won't know about it.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Using_mesh_bed_compensation
@Kwad3d said in Help me get connected to my Duet2Wifi:
Ok thanks for you help and patience.
You're welcome.
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@Phaedrux Ok I will more than likely need some assistance fine tuning the mesh leveling to match my probe locating and the areas where the print head can move off the bed. I did find this post in the forums where you made some good references that I think will get me there though.
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/18185/possible-pwm-port-issue-rrf3-question/18
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@Phaedrux Ok I came across a bug or something. When testing my heated bed I got error message after 15-30 seconds saying it is heating up too slow. However I can see the temp rising in a acceptable manor. How can I correct this issue?
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@Kwad3d said in Help me get connected to my Duet2Wifi:
How can I correct this issue?
It's not a bug. It's the thermal runaway protection kicking in because it doesn't have an accurate model of your heater yet so it thinks something is wrong.
The solution is to PID tune your heaters.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+4:+Calibration/40#s161
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@Phaedrux LOL.. total DUH moment. Guess I assumed that "Bang Bang" didn't require it
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@Phaedrux Ok I have made some progress but having inconsistent results with senseless homing and not sure how to adjust the settings. This is on a CoreXY for reference so both motors have to move in tandem to home x and y. It will home some times and then sometimes it will move a little in the opposite diagonal direction ( one motor not turning with the other). Here is my HomeX code. My guess is its slightly too sensitive. Im gussing I need to increase the motor current a few percent but want to check
M400
M913 X70 Y70 ; drop motor current to 70%
M400 G91; relative positioning
G1 H2 Z10 F12000 ; lift Z relative to current position
G1 H1 X-320.5 F10000 ; move quickly to X axis endstop and stop there (first pass)
G1 H2 X20 F12000 ; go back a few mm
G1 H1 X-320.5 F7000 ; move slowly to X axis endstop once more (second pass)
G1 H2 Z-10 F9000 ; lower Z again
G90 ; absolute positioning
M400
M913 X100 Y100 ; return current to 100%
M400 -
What does your M915 command look like?
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Stall_detection_and_sensorless_homing#Section_Sensorless_Homing
Have you calculated what your M915 H value should be and your minimum homing speed?
In your example, remove the entire second homing move. With stall detection you need a short sharp shock during a steady state move. Backing off and slowly approaching from close up isn't going to generate a stall reliably. Since you're stalling the motor to a full step anyway, backing off and rehoming for more accuracy doesn't make sense here like it does when using an endstop switch.
So try this
M400 M913 X70 Y70 ; drop motor current to 70% M400 G91; relative positioning G1 H2 Z10 F12000 ; lift Z relative to current position G1 H1 X-320.5 F10000 ; move quickly to X axis endstop and stop there (first pass) G1 H2 Z-10 F9000 ; lower Z again G90 ; absolute positioning M400 M913 X100 Y100 ; return current to 100% M400@Kwad3d said in Help me get connected to my Duet2Wifi:
My guess is its slightly too sensitive. Im gussing I need to increase the motor current a few percent but want to check
Start with as low a motor current as you can still reliably move with and set the sensitivity to default. Then slowly increase (or decrease) sensitivity from there.
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@Phaedrux So lower the full current setting that was set in the confit tool or the "drop motor" current in the M913 line? If im changing the full current that was set in the config (800) I can do that with a g code command in the console right? what is the code please if so
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I mean lower the dropped current in the M913 command in your homing file.
M906 sets the full current in config.g. That one should be set at ~80% of your motors max current.
