TEVO Little Monster Duet Ethernet Conversion
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Would you mind sharing the files for that back Cover please.
Doug
Sorry having re-read your post properly I see you've said you are going to!! Doh my Bad
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Thanks for the comprehensive write up. once you have put the information on thingiverse I will link this and the thingivers stuff from the tutorial page.
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Your timing couldn't have been better as I'm in the process of configuring the same board for the same printer.
Any ETA on releasing your configuration?
P.s. I think what TEVO meant with the ethernet printing not being "stable" is the usual problem of the crippled SD card bus bottlenecking transfer speed on the board (in the manual they also recommend against USB printing).
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I'm also eager to see the details on this after pulling my hair out of pure frustration over the original controller.. There wouldn't be any show stoppers in regards to only switching the controller, but keeping the original extruder and volcano?
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There wouldn't be any show stoppers in regards to only switching the controller, but keeping the original extruder and volcano?
The only incompatibility I've thought of is that I believe that the stock optical endstops use 5V, while Duet WiFi/Ethernet expects them to run on 3.3V.
Hopefully somebody who knows more can chime in on this.
(it's probably not a big deal to take 5V from GPIO or something, in any case)
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It's usually possible to convert 5V optical endstops to 3.3V. Identify the resistor in series with the IR emitter in the slotted opto switch and reduce its value by about 50%. If it's a surface mount resistor and you don't have SMD desoldering equipment then it's easiest to solder a second resistor of equal value on top of the existing one.
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I find a lot of optical endstops will work on 3.3v but to get a positive trigger you need large, black optoflags to trigger them, anything less doesn't give a solid trigger.
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My Tevo LM will be here next week. It would be nice to use these components to start with on the initial build up.
Should would be sweet to see that posting of full instructions to Thingiverse go up soon or did I miss it?Better go look again!
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There wouldn't be any show stoppers in regards to only switching the controller, but keeping the original extruder and volcano?
The only incompatibility I've thought of is that I believe that the stock optical endstops use 5V, while Duet WiFi/Ethernet expects them to run on 3.3V.
Hopefully somebody who knows more can chime in on this.
(it's probably not a big deal to take 5V from GPIO or something, in any case)
I thought of this as well, but thankfully, it appears the stock optical endstops are working just fine on 3.3 volts. Homing is working perfectly without further modification.
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Sorry for taking so long to post this, but here's the complete conversion instructions and 3d models for the conversion:
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Awesome! I have added a link on the wiki to this thread and the thingiverse entry. Thanks for taking the time to document this.
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Thank you!
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Are you happy with the dimmensionall accurancy of the printer? I have a spare Duet wifi and im dreaming of a delta Even if i got parts for a big Core xy on MGN rails on the bench ^^ Delta's Looks so cool!
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Are you happy with the dimmensionall accurancy of the printer? I have a spare Duet wifi and im dreaming of a delta Even if i got parts for a big Core xy on MGN rails on the bench ^^ Delta's Looks so cool!
I am. I've been comparing the setup to my SeeMeCNC Rostock MAX V2, which has been my bulletproof printer that cranks out my my accurate prints. So far, the TEVO with a Duet is within a 15-20 microns. Not bad for something I haven't tweaked at all compared to the Rostock that I've spent a significant amount of time dialing in over the past year.
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Seems I just have to get one
Thanks for the info Emulsifide! -
I can at least confirm that the frame seems very rigid, which alongside the large print volume was the main selling point for me.
I guess I was lucky with the controller too because I did get fairly consistent print quality with it. That said, it does crash occasionally mid-print but there's a chance you can resume the print if you don't go back to main menu and instead just turn the power off and on again. And when I say "consistent" I also mean that it seemed to produce unwanted print artifacts consistently too…
I'm pretty sure temperature sensing was off too.
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Thanks again for sharing this.
I've received my Duet Ethernet, and I am actually also waiting for some .9 steppers for the XYZ. I am a bit unsure though, on the necessity of replacing the stock 1.8 motors.. Will this actually be worth the hazzle? As I understand from the Duet documentation, the .9 ones are recommended to increase the torque on micro stepping these axes on deltas, but is there a strict need for it on the LM? Will a replacement actually give me better results down the line compared to the stock ones? (3d-hw-mod-newbie-alert)
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Using 0.9deg motors reduces the fine moire you get on prints from a delta. You can see my findings at https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/2015/08/01/upgrading-the-large-delta-printer.
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Thanks, I will change the motors later on then.
Right now I have successfully switched out the MKS board with the Duet Ethernet.
I am amazed.. Truly. It went from a monster to being a kitten; I can sit in the same room as the printer and its sound level is like 50% of what it was. The auto leveling works fantastically, the UI makes it a treat to work with both settings and daily tasks.. Wow! Fabulous engineering! And the switch took me a few hours thanks to Emulsifide's pioneering and good Duet documentation in general. Can't get better. -
I also recommend these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3X-NEMA-17-Vibration-Damper-noise-3D-printer-stepper-motor-dampener-screws/302320633635
Running my TEVO delta in the living room was misery prior to installing the dampeners. They work magic with this printer.
The seller on eBay sent me one defective part (the vulcanized rubber was loose) but I managed to fix it with superglue. The seller was so embarrassed that he sent me a fourth one for free, so I can at least recommend him for the upstanding service.
