Yet another cast aluminum plate topic...
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@wyvern said in Yet another cast aluminum plate topic...:
wait until you say, click the Z end-stop to start probing?
You could add a M291 pop-up prompt with a blocking wait until you click ok or cancel.
@wyvern said in Yet another cast aluminum plate topic...:
Does the probe always need to do a Z- offset on startup?
I don't understand what this means.
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The Anycubic had to probe Z and store that information before it would perform the bed compensation routine, but I imagine it is only for delta's.
There isn't any need to have this set up right?
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@wyvern I think I'm having a dense moment. I still don't really understand.
For Delta's you'd have to do an auto delta calibration before printing, but I don't understand that in the context of what you're asking.
Explain it like I'm 5.
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Well with me we make 10!
The delta has a removable probe so it saves that data and applies it until it glitches out and forgets.
With that machine it has to probe Z and then it shuts off, you then have to probe and then save.
But that's a crap board, crap firmware.
I'm sure all I need to do is probe, save and apply the map every print.
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@wyvern said in Yet another cast aluminum plate topic...:
I'm sure all I need to do is probe, save and apply the map every print.
Yeah basically.
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Just another tidbit of information
I have a 300mm x 600mm x12mm cast aluminum plate for my build platform, thinking that this would be quite level and also maintain level during heating...this was a big mistake....the thermal expansion of the aluminium is quite large being .5mm in the 300mm and 1mm on the 600mm. this cast plate was a tooling plate and surface ground initially. the mounting was fixed at one end and allowed to float in the other direction to prevent residual stresses. Even at that the plate warped and you could actually measure the warpage with an indicator during heating. The best level that i could maintain was .2mm. I change to a granite plate and this solved the issue of warping. If your build platform is small you will not run into this issue but if it is bigger than 300mm you will run into issues if you use aluminum. -
@percar Wow! a full mm is pretty large, what type of plate did you use?
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I recommend: https://www.mcmaster.com/7602a53
It's a mother to get off though.. plan on breaking the mirror unless you're really patient. It's heat resistant, and solvent resistant, so it works famously. It's super expensive for a roll though. If you're in the states, I'd be happy to send you a couple feet. My suggestion however would be to get a magnetic sheet and go with a flexible PEI powder coated sheet from TheKKIINNGG on ebay. This dude's plates are AMAZING! I have them on all of my machines. In addition to better adhesion than the mirror (whether using glue stick, "Magic Juice" or Hair Spray) removing prints is a breeze. I'm happy to share any info you may want to know. It was the single best mod to my large format printer yet.
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@wyvern The type or brand of aluminum doesn't matter. The thermal expansion coefficient of aluminum is about 24 um/m-K. Apply an 80C (=80K) temperature rise and it expands: 0.6 m x 80K x 24 um= 1152 um = 1.152 mm
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@percar did you check flatness after that massive plate had time to stabilize at the set temperature, maybe 10-15 minutes or so after the heater was turned on? What was the power rating of the heater?
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@mrehorstdmd
I only asked because the CTE varies slightly depending on the alloy, that said, it doesn't vary enough to make a huge difference.The granite plate plate solution is interesting, but how did you get around it's poor conductivity?
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Have you some place in France for mic6 plate ?
I don't find yet.Thx
