[Off topic] all metal pla clogging
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@dragonn The 10mm was just a test, for an idea that if the retracted filament had more time to cool down ... I was flying kind of blind about the issue.
@Qdeathstar @dragonn I'm using a smart effector, I'm not sure if a water cooling solution could work with it. Please prove me wrong
I'm using some noname chineese 40x40x10mm fan bought from a local webshop, and just now as I paid closer attention found that it has great airflow unless I mount it, and it has to force the air between the blades of the heatsink. In this case it feels kind of crappy, so I'll buy some new fans on monday. Maybe a Sunon MB40202V1-G99 ?
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@denke most 40mm fan tunnels for the E3D v6 are just crap because the have to much flow resistance. Maybe even mounting the fan without any tunnel would work better. I would suggest you to go with the stock 30mm tunnel and stock E3D v6 fan, I compared it to some 30x30 Sunon and the stock E3D is the much powerful.
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Not for the v6, correct? If they do that is exciting news...
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40mm fans can work fine, but pay attention to the static pressure rating as well as the CFM rating. Higher static pressure is good for blowing into a restricted orifice, such as a heataink.
I found a sunon 30mm fan that fit the bill and is actually very quiet.
https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/sunon-fans/MC30101V1-000U-A99/259-1550-ND/2757778
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Your setup is pretty normal, so I believe your problem is just due to too much retraction that molten PLA is pulled out into the cold zone and then got squashed by new filament.
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@Phaedrux Thanks, I think I'll stick to the 40mm, it should be more quiet for the same effect. At least I hope. It should be easyer to find a 24V piece as well.
@Jackal A few hours ago it happened with 0 retraction printing 40mm/s 0.2mm layer height @ layer ~60 so I lean towards insufficent cooling or bad thermal connection between the radiator and heatbreak.
Furthermora it seems that the clogging is more probable the longer I print. If I start a new print after cleaning up a clog without cooling down, the clog almost always happens within 5 layers -
Do you have thermal paste between the heatbreak and radiator?
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@denke said in [Off topic] all metal pla clogging:
Furthermora it seems that the clogging is more probable the longer I print. If I start a new print after cleaning up a clog without cooling down, the clog almost always happens within 5 layers
That's to be expected with a heat creep issue. The longer you hold the print temperature, the further up the heat break/heat sink it'll creep. Do you really need to be able to print at temperatures higher than 230 deg C? I only ask because as I said in my first reply, the Lite version of the heat sinks with PTFE liner all the way through the heat break will almost certainly fix the problem.
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@dragonn No, I do not. Does it make a big difference? Is there a special kind for this temp, or just some off-the-shelf cpu paste will do?
@deckingman yes, the ptfe would limit me to 225-235 C but for eg. PET-G needs 255 for a strong layer adhesion for me.
Hertz ABS needs 240-275 which is way up. I would essentially be limited to PLA according to theese numbers.If the new fan possibly with the thermal paste between the break and the radiator will not work, I'll probably snap, grab a drill and transform one of those crappy steel heatbreaks from all metal to ptfe and use that for PLA until my stock is gone.
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@denke Yeah it makes, even E3D suggest it in they wiki https://wiki.e3d-online.com/E3D-v6_Assembly#Thermal_Compound as far I know every good cpu paste will do it too. Even seen a post on this forum where someone used solder paste and solder the heatbreak into the heatsink.
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LOL a bit radical, but nice!
Thank You all for your help, and you helped a lot!
