Chimera water cooling
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Im looking into chimera extruder…
Is there a way to estimate how much cold (in watts) i would need to keep extruder cool ?
...assumption is 24 v system and 270 degrees print.many thanks!
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Well at 220 deg C it takes around 8-10 watts (measure the current going to the hotend heater with a clamp meter) to maintain the temperature. So thats what you are putting into it. Some heat is carried away with the filament, the rest radiates in all directions, convects upwards and conducts (hopefully not too much) up the heatbreak. So if you are thinking about water cooling, then I would guess that as long as your water cooler can dissipate at least whatever energy you have to put in to maintain your 270 deg C heaterblock then thats probably sufficient, then add some overhead.
I have water cooling via a pc type radiator with 120mm fan and I PWM's it down to 10% and it still stays below 30 deg C in a 45 deg C chamber. I run it back to 100%, and turn part fans to 100% when I want to cool back down to 130 deg C, which I do before probing prior to the next print.
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DjDemonD:
220 deg C it takes around 8-10 watts
do you mean for both chimera channels or it is for single extruder?
PWM's it down to 10% and it still stays below 30 deg C in a 45 deg C chamber.
did you mean 130 degrees?
Also, dc42 mentioned
The heater cartridge comes with the E3D hot end and is available in 12V and 24V versions. The current will be 1 to 2A for the 24V version, and 2 to 4A for the 12V version.
for single heater that comes with smart effector.
if i double that assuming 24v*2A=48 W * 2 = 96 W … it is almost 100W of power.... -
Chimera has two heater blocks so double it, yes.
No I mean I monitor the temperature of the heatsink to which my water block is attached. The cold zone in my hotend is 30 deg C in a 45 deg C chamber. With the smallest PC style pump/reservoir I could find and 120mm fan and radiator running at 10% PWM.
The power level is correct assuming you are in the heat up phase i.e. 100% PWM, once you get to temperature the wattage needed to maintain it will be 20-30 watts max for both heater blocks.
The amount of heat a PC style radiator and 120mm fan can dissipate I imagine will be at least 1 order of magnitude larger than this. I think its fairly safe to assume any PC type water cooling kit will be massive overkill for a 3D printer hotend, sure the temps are high but they are quite small blocks and the total watts of heat involved are quite low.
Im currently using a Well-Engineered titanium heatbreak, which reduces the thermal transfer to the heatsink by over 5 deg C.
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Also note you would normally not be running both chimera hotends at print temperature at one time, otherwise you get ooze.
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In general, an E3D heatbreak conducts 5-8 watts of heat into the heatsink.
Thus, you need to remove at most, 20 watts of heat using the water-cooling. This is very little, in nearly all cases a radiator is not necessary even.
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Hi. I built a small cross drilled water cooler for my chimera and it had no problems in a 50c heat chamber keeping the cold end cool enough. I mainly printed ABS.
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In general, an E3D heatbreak conducts 5-8 watts of heat into the heatsink.
Thus, you need to remove at most, 20 watts of heat using the water-cooling. This is very little, in nearly all cases a radiator is not necessary even.
I agree.
I use a simple watercooling and without radiator, the heat was near 15° highter than the room( approx. 32°)
I build a small radiator and now the temperature is steady at 23°.
The needed radiator can be very small.I use this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-CPU-Aluminum-40x40x-12mm-Waterblock-Cooling-Water-Liquid-Radiator-XC4/122665473115?hash=item1c8f6e945b:g:yWQAAOSwa3ZZnqnh
I attached a simple heatsink ( from a very old graphic card…)
I added a fan in front of it but it's not even necessary. -
I'm running one side of the E3D Chimera+ with the standard E3D water cooling set, i.e. pump and radiator, with a BeQuiet 80x80x25 Pure Wings 2 fan at the radiator.
I did a comparison between air and water cooling with about 30°C room temperature, 250°C hotend tempereature and with the hotend above the middle of an 105°C heatbed. The air arount the print head was about 40 to 50°C.
Air cooled it was 50°C inside the second heatbreak bore.
Water coolded it was 32°C.There is a blog post in german, but with some pictures also: https://drucktipps3d.de/wasserkuehlung-von-e3d/
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Interesting and thanks for sharing. I used Google translate to view you blog so something might have been missed in translation. Could you explain how you measured the temperature inside the heat break bore? This is something that I have an interest in doing myself.
Thanks.
