Yeyy First print

jens55

@tecno, congratultions, now the REAL work starts (tweaking, tweaking and more tweaking) LOL

tecno

@jens55

Sorry but it went south

My Bondtech BMG extruder gave up and started to grind

jens55

@tecno, oh well, don't fret, we have all been there. Time to do some tweaking

tecno

@jens55

This BMG has been acting badly, now with NO pressure applied filament is not running smoothly.

Sounds like the gear is wobbling so filament is is type of jerking. Will contact Bondtech tomorrow.

jay_s_uk

@tecno that of you don't have the correct thermistor settings in your config so the temperature you think you're at isn't the temperature you have

tecno

@jay_s_uk

Good morning from a very rainy day

Have been trying to find info on this thermistor, maybe I got it with E3DV6 but shure.

Cheers
Bengt

jay_s_uk

@tecno don't think thats an E3D one as they use specific colours for their wires

tecno

@jay_s_uk

Correct, my bad memory
It is HT-NTC100K
So do I have to make any changes to my config?

jay_s_uk

@tecno what do you have for the M308 line for the hotend?

tecno

@jay_s_uk

; Heaters
M308 S0 P"temp0" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin temp0
M950 H0 C"out1" T0 ; create bed heater output on out1 and map it to sensor 0
M307 H0 R0.211 C620.5 D1.28 S1.00 V24.1 ; disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M140 H0 ; map heated bed to heater 0
M143 H0 S120 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C

M308 S1 P"121.temp0" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin temp1
M950 H1 C"121.out0" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on out2 and map it to sensor 1
M307 H1 B0 R3.567 C155.0 D5.77 S1.00 V24.3 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit B0 S1.00
M143 H1 S280 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C

PaulHew

@tecno You could try changing your B value to 3950
From what I have read, that particular type of probe is not very reliable.

I tend to use E3D thermistors and at a push TLabs.

P.

tecno

@paulhew

Hi Paul,
I am all ears for good tips.
E3D have 3 different Semitec 104GT + PT100 + PT1000

Assuming PT100 is a good choice?

droftarts

@tecno PT100 needs a daughterboard. PT1000 is a good choice though. See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Temperature_sensors

Ian

tecno

@droftarts

Hello Ian,

Then PT1000 it is, ordering now from Kent i Denmark.

droftarts

@tecno To be honest, a proper E3D thermistor, with the correct settings, is fine too. Thermistors are repeatable, not accurate, good resolution. PT1000 are repeatable, accurate, slightly lower resolution. Either way you'll need to work out the reported temperature that works for you filament (speed is also a factor), and even your current HT-NTC100K should be fine. Try printing a temperature tower. Something like https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729076

Ian

tecno

Managed to make my first print yesterday evening by replacing nozzle to brass on Dragon. The suppied nozzle is not OK.

Good tool to have.

tecno

On purpose !!!!

Just to play a little hardboll no G29 S1 = Print went south west as suspected

The picture in message is acceptable with loaded heightmap

tecno

Last parts printed for the mechanical upgrade on my Chiron, Y axis linear guides.