Polycarbonate build plate…. No bed heat Success!!!
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got my clear PC (no black available) today and did a first test print. Worked well. Sticks well.
Subsequent test prints had major issues with ABS with cold HB and also at 55C. I get the feeling that something else is off. This is very strange (went back to fixed Zheight as my probe had major issues with the clear sanded PC with variances of 0.9mm during mesh bed leveling).More tests later…..
I had a feeling it wouldnt work, you might need a piezo sensor to use clear PC. or you can manually level your bed using the paper test.
What started me down this path in trying black PC is the sensor does not even detect my Fleks3D plate that has an etched surface.
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Yes polycarbonate we are just using the black no name knock off version most likely from china.
What's a good source in the UK for the black polycarbonate?
Not sure (i live in US) but grey PC would probably work as well and might be more readily available. Basically any type of PC that is Opaque unless you are using a piezo sensor
In the US we have plastic shops that all they sell is plastic sheet and rods…. does the UK have something similar?
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I bought mine in a company that makes the lights for the ads in the streets, they kindly sold me a couple of pieces cut at the size I needed.
I've not sanded it yet, didn't have time this week =_=.
BTW, found this video in youtube about the sand process and test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XDK7y0F6a1o
Regards
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Yeah the clear PC works thats what the Fleks3d build plate is made out of and where i got the idea to try sanding black PC but it doesnt work with the IR probe. Also i have had better luck with adhesion of a wider selection of materials on the black PC than i did with my Fleks3d plate without bed heat which causes PC to warp above 55c
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I just picked up a couple 11x14" sheets of Lexan at Home Depot to experiment with. I'll cut one down to fit my current heated bed (around 8" by 12" but it's actually slightly larger) and save the other one for my new MIC6 1/2" thick aluminum jig plate that I'll be mounting soon (it's 9"x14").
I'll be interested in seeing if this can be made to work with the DC42 IR sensor. I haven't mounted the sensor yet either, but I have it, and I'll get it on there soon.
I think my first experiment will be using my random-orbital sander and a 100 grit sanding pad to scuff up the surface as the OP described (though he used 60 grit) and then just clamp the Lexan directly to the heated bed. If this works out well I could replace my bed->thermal pad->glass plate->PEI sheet with a simple bed -> scuffed lexan solution that would probably be more uniform. I've had great success with PEI so I've been assuming my next bed would include something like a PEI sheet (if I can find one big enough), but this Lexan is cheap (I paid under $8 for each 11x14" sheet) and if it's just as good, or even better, that's a bonus.
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My black one works with the IR sensor.
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Hi there,
First of all, big big thanks to Whitewolf for letting us know this… I'm at a really early stage, but so far, this material looks awesome.
Yesterday I sanded one of the sheets I bought (the transparent one) with a 80gr sand paper to start with, and with a 120gr after, it was really easy (I've recorded a video, and I will post it with a timelapse of one print I did last night) and only took around 10 minutes, then I washed it, and gave another try with the 120gr sand paper, whased it again, and cleaned with alcohol.
I tried it with PETG, a material I had problems printing with, even with heated bed (around 70 degrees) and blue painter, as it usually warped in the corners... I had more success with my black Buildtak, although removing the part from Buildtak was a nightmare (I've ruined a sheet of Buildtak trying to remove a failed PETG print). However, with PC the process was really really easy, like magic! It sticks without issues to the surface (I'm having a bit of elephant foot, I still need to adjust the Z offset) and you cannot remove it by hand after the print (really well sticked to the surface) but as Whitewolf suggested, I just removed the surface from the bed, bend it a bit, and... voila! It came off in a second, undamaged! (both, surface and part). I was crying after it xD.
The only problem I'm facing is that, as the surface I bought wasn't manufactured for 3dprinting, the surface is not totally flat (in fact, as per the sensor, is not flat at all), and the bulldog clips are not helping either, although the piezo sensor seems to be doing a really good job detecting the unevenness of the surface and the duet is compensating it. I think the white sheet I bought is more straight, so I will sand it too and give it a try. Not sure if I can use the heated bed to try to make it more straight, my suspect is that I will need more than 100 degrees and that I will do more harm than good.
So far (I just printed a couple of parts, just in PETG, with no heated bed and no warp at all), I'm really happy, this seems to be really promising, and in contrast with the Buildtak, I'm not afraid of ruining it, as A) I can just sand it again, or B) I can flip it over, sand the bottom, and use it again, or C) Is cheaper than Buildtak, so I just can buy another one :D.
Cheers!
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you need to sand the other side and clip it from the other side… sorry i forgot to mention that before.... most PC has a cup... being sure to not have the cup upward is the key to a closly flat surface.
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LOL, I see… I've sanded that side because it was in a bit worse condition, with some scratches, and I thought that "if I ruin it, is not the best side" xD. Funny thing, I did over a small table, without adding anything between the shit and the table, so now the "best" side is full of scratches
(not important at all, after the sand all will be gone...)I will sand the other side then and test again, thanks!
Regards
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sheet* and the table
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If I bought Lexan sheets offered up for use as window panes and whatnot, are you guys saying these typically have a scooped side? Or are you talking about PC from other sources?
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Not sure about window pane grade…. I have seen many varations of PC some costing a lot more. I am sure those versions have better tolerences and are probably machined flat... I am referring to the cheap stuff on amazon and other sources.
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Some of the versions specifically designed for glazing may have UV coatings etc
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Some of the versions specifically designed for glazing may have UV coatings etc
I've got some 100 and 150 grit sand pads for my random orbital sander. I'll experiment with using them to scuff up the surface of the Lexan, clamp it directly onto my build plate (no thermal pads or anything in between) and give this a try. I wonder if any coatings that might be there will be removed by this? Or, barring that, whether they'll make any difference?
I print a lot of PLA, PETG, and more recently I've been experimenting with ASA. I've got a PC/ASA blend I want to try as well, and I've experimented with PCMax and eSun's ePC before as well, and some things like Taulman's alloy 910. I probably won't go back to PCMax until I've got some kind of enclosure. The ePC was too brittle to be of much use to me. The others I'd really like to see if they'll stick to this Lexan.
I've never actuall printed anything without a heated bed. Not sure if that really interests me, to be honest. I not only like how the heat helps things stick, but the difference between heat and no heat helps me remove things since the hold on the build plate reduces as the prints cool down to room temperature and there's that little bit of shrinkage of the filament, breaking the bonds that hold it. Been printing on PEI for many moons now, and I love it. I'm really just curious how this Lexan compares to PEI.
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The problem with heat is depending on the filament you can make things stick so good that you wont be able to get them off.
Things like nylon 910 will benefit from 55c and others like acetal pom…. This really isnt a new idea go read about Fleks3D build plate. heat is not a friend of PC in most situations.
Especially heat above 55c i even got Igus Iglidur filament to weld to the build plate at 60c (i have tested stuff up to 120c and had a couple situations where it was extremely difficult to even sand the old filament off the bed plate.
Also the PC plate begins to warp above 55c
My rule of thumb really is no heat until i come across a filament that shows signs of warping then i use a brim or add 55c heat
The trickiest filaments have been acetal pom and the taulman nylon series but they are doable with 55c
Also when you say lexan are you talking clear lexan? if you look at my posts a few up where i show the photo of the Fleks3d build plate... i can tell you from experience that clear does not stick as well as the black on such a large range of filaments... Fleks3d is a commercial build plate from clear lexan and inwas never getting the results that i am from black PC
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read posts like these: https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?pid=18708#p18708
also read about Fleks3d build plate for part removal the key is not heat, it really isnt needed
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Hi there!
After several prints I must say I'm still impressed with PC, it's the best print surface I've used so far, although is not perfect of course… here a few impressions and a question:
- PLA and PETG (so far, the materials I've printed with) sticks perfectly... sometimes it sticks too much.
- The Z Offset is really important and depends on the material you're printing with... for PLA I need to setup a 0.1 offset, for PETG I'm still testing, but 0'25 seems to be OK. If you're closed to the bed, you won't be able to unstick the part without breaking it...
- I have a white and a transparent PC sheet, the white one seems to be more flat than the transparent one, and sticks more too... I will need to sand it a bit more probably.
- Usually bending the sheet is enough to unstick the part... it starts to "crack" a bit, and then you can remove it. The problem here is that if the part is too small or too thin, the part will bend with the bed, and it's harder to remove.
And now the question for @Whitewolf:
After you told me about the "cup", I've been using the bulldog clips and the surface is really flat as per the probe, however, I've observed that even though the parts are not warped from the bed, the base of the part seems to be bended... and I'm thinking the problem is that even with the clips, the plastic bend the surface with cooling down, so the part is a bit bended, similarly when you've warp problems... did you observed this? Any advice?Cheers!
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Instead of sanding, would matte (or frosted or satin) finish PC work ?
For example:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00II1QY9Y/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w -
Hi there!
After several prints I must say I'm still impressed with PC, it's the best print surface I've used so far, although is not perfect of course… here a few impressions and a question:
- PLA and PETG (so far, the materials I've printed with) sticks perfectly... sometimes it sticks too much.
- The Z Offset is really important and depends on the material you're printing with... for PLA I need to setup a 0.1 offset, for PETG I'm still testing, but 0'25 seems to be OK. If you're closed to the bed, you won't be able to unstick the part without breaking it...
- I have a white and a transparent PC sheet, the white one seems to be more flat than the transparent one, and sticks more too... I will need to sand it a bit more probably.
- Usually bending the sheet is enough to unstick the part... it starts to "crack" a bit, and then you can remove it. The problem here is that if the part is too small or too thin, the part will bend with the bed, and it's harder to remove.
And now the question for @Whitewolf:
After you told me about the "cup", I've been using the bulldog clips and the surface is really flat as per the probe, however, I've observed that even though the parts are not warped from the bed, the base of the part seems to be bended... and I'm thinking the problem is that even with the clips, the plastic bend the surface with cooling down, so the part is a bit bended, similarly when you've warp problems... did you observed this? Any advice?Cheers!
I do not use PC, but PEI as a build surface, which has the "cup" and is secured with a clamp to keep it flat, and have experienced the same thing – the bottom of very large prints will "cup" in the same way that the build surface would if released from the clamps.
I wonder if there is a way to get pieces of plastic that "cup" to be more flat by relieving the internal stresses that causes the warping? Maybe heating the pieces in an oven at controlled temperatures, while held between two precision flat plates?
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This is why these surfaces are generally bonded with 3M 468 adhesive to the aluminium/glass substrate. Otherwise they warp too.
