parts recommendations
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hello guys .
i'm building actively heated chamber and i'm looking for the right components .
what type of bed leveling sensor is best in this situation ?
also looking for high temp fans for the heaters , any recommendations ?
chamber temp will be as high as i can get it to work . -
@hackinistrator
It's been discussed at length in multiple threads, try searching.And having a target temp is a good idea... just saying 'as high as possible' isn't going to help you.
A 200C build chamber is possible.
Are you ready to spend tens of thousands of dollars to get there? -
I searched the board with no luck .
and yes my target is around 200c . I know chances are that this isn't going to happen . around 100c is a good starting point . below that , there is no point to bother .
if i can reach 150c I'll be happy . -
I searched the board with no luck .
https://forum.duet3d.com/search/?term=heated enclosure&in=titlesposts
The first 3 hits are 2 threads discussing heated chambers.
What materials are you wanting to print in?
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@theruttmeister said in parts recommendations:
The first 3 hits are 2 threads discussing heated chambers.
What materials are you wanting to print in?
i read those threads , no info on high temp fans or bed leveling . i didn't ask about other stuff .
will be printing mostly ultem (pie) -
If you want to print ULTEM and do it properly, then you need to be aiming for 150C.
Which means the answer to your question is: There's nothing off-the-shelf I'm aware of. Very few companies build machines like that, and basically everything that isn't a bearing or wires is going to be a special order part.
If you speak directly to a fan manufacturer you might have more luck. -
Go with something Like the precision piezo.
Keep in mind with 200C Chambers you need all Milled parts inside the Chamber. Yes you could Print Things Out of ultem. But i think millimg is then cheaper!For the hotend use the watercooled mosquito and you need a bowden system. For Part cooling i would Go with Bernd Air.
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also the stepper motors have to be outside of the heated chambers. there are no stepper motors that can take 200c
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Yep thats why bowden
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@PCR said in parts recommendations:
Go with something Like the precision piezo.
Keep in mind with 200C Chambers you need all Milled parts inside the Chamber. Yes you could Print Things Out of ultem. But i think millimg is then cheaper!For the hotend use the watercooled mosquito and you need a bowden system. For Part cooling i would Go with Bernd Air.
There's no benefit to a bowden at this level, you are already adding enough weight with the water cooling, plus a FEP tube at 200C is going to stretch like mad (if its not inside a cooled envelope).
And you don't want to cool the parts. That would defeat the whole point of a 200C enclosure.
And at this level, if you can't just design your own extruder, you are out of your depth.And not just milled, milled stainless steel parts (aluminium will expand too much). Everything inside the heated envelope will be stainless or maybe something more exotic (this is actually a time to use titanium for real reasons).
@Veti said in parts recommendations:
also the stepper motors have to be outside of the heated chambers. there are no stepper motors that can take 200c
There are... but you don't want to know how much they cost. Or how long they last.
But you are talking about printing with filament that costs $250-300 per Kg.
And that's the cheap stuff. -
i already have an idea what to do with the extruder and rails . it will be double walled chamber . all axis rails will be outside of the high temp chamber , including most of the extruder .
my current issues are the bed leveling and chamber heater fan .chamber heater also not decided yet.
if i wont find solution to leveling sensor i will do manual leveling .
its funny how my stupid kitchen oven has a metal fan that can somehow survive oven temps above 250c , but i cant find anything online rated for those temps .
maybe i'll use the oven fans
i already printed ultem with my modified prusa (yes , a prusa printing ultem and peek lol)
no water cooling at all .
i just screwed a 2mm thick copper plate under the heater block , added separate heater conected to the copper plate and heated the plate to around 180c with 390c extruder temp , 160c bed temp , and i printed ultem and also peek .
the copper plate is about 100x100mm , so it limited my print volume to much smaller area then the build plate .ultem is nasty stuff , it sticks to everything , nozzle , heater block and to the inside of the heat break . i had many clogs on my modded v6 .so next extruder will be water cooled anyways .
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what about something like this?
https://www.asi-ez.com/member/x759-High-Temperature-Sensors.asp
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I suspect you can get a convection oven fan for the high-temperature fan. Look at the various appliance repair parts sites, and see if it would work. Those have to be able to circulate 250C air (somehow!).
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@mendenmh I could be wrong but I think the motor portion is actually outside the heated oven area and only a shaft goes to the metal blades within the oven.
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@Phaedrux said in parts recommendations:
@mendenmh I could be wrong but I think the motor portion is actually outside the heated oven area and only a shaft goes to the metal blades within the oven.
yes you are right .
i also have motorcycle radiator fan+motor , which i think should be good for at least 130c .
above that , the only option i see is to use the motor outside of the chamber , and just the shaft +metal fan inside . -
@hackinistrator said in parts recommendations:
@Phaedrux said in parts recommendations:
@mendenmh I could be wrong but I think the motor portion is actually outside the heated oven area and only a shaft goes to the metal blades within the oven.
yes you are right .
i also have motorcycle radiator fan+motor , which i think should be good for at least 130c .
above that , the only option i see is to use the motor outside of the chamber , and just the shaft +metal fan inside .@Phaedrux is right. True high temp fans have the motor outside of the heated envelope, its expensive to make motors that can withstand more than 100C, really expensive to make them withstand >200C.
And a motorcycle fan/motor is going to be good to... maybe 75C. Its designed to have a near constant flow of cooling air running over it.
Besides, if you read those other threads, you will see that the need for a fan inside the envelope is discussed. There are arguments against having one at all.
You can print ULTEM and PEEK with an aircooled extruder, even just using the heated chamber air. So long as the extruder is well designed the delta will be high enough. Might toast your motors though. And your wiring.
And frankly I'd recommend against any multi-part extruder... once you go up to 400C and higher, they tend to unscrew themselves.And why bother with active bed leveling? Just make the bed adjustable, tram it once, then forget about the problem.
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@theruttmeister said in [parts recommendations]
And why bother with active bed leveling? Just make the bed adjustable, tram it once, then forget about the problem.
i tried that before . its not going to be accurate due to metal expansion .
i can get z offsets for my slicer profiles and compensate for each material / bed temp . i simply thought there are ready made parts for that .i guess i'm wrong .
btw , induction sensor suggested before is a no go . i'm using borosilicate glass and ceramic glass as a main bed material .the motorcycle fan i got is not 75c rated , its way above 100c .
i'm not going to use it anyways , looking for more elegant solution. -
The motor being outside the enclosure is true for a convection oven (or other very hot air) fan. However, the back of an oven is still pretty hot. I would expect the windings and bearings on such fans might still be capable of fairly elevated temperatures. I used to wind coils out of HAPTZ wire (see, for example, https://wire-cable-tubing.wireandcable.com/viewitems/magnet-wire/heavy-armored-polythermaleze-round-magnet-wire ) which is good to 200C operation. A fan wound with that and with dry bearings might be available, and capable of running at 150C. Finding one is the trick, of course.
