Issues with print quality, wall surface rough.
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@Corexy So I set the e3d thermistor up and now its reading -273.1C....
M308 S1 P"temp2" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin temp2 -
@CorvoDewittV2 why have you gone from using temp1 to temp2?
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@CorvoDewittV2
You have used temp1 and temp0 in the old config -
@DIY-O-Sphere fuck
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@DIY-O-Sphere I have to go to work so I don't have time to PID tune so I'll have to mess with this more when I get home thank you! But yeah changing it temp1 fixed it
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@mendenmh WhamBam is pretty good, I can not move the bed when its on there. Not a bad idea to check though, I have a mirror I can try.
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@CorvoDewittV2 said in Issues with print quality, wall surface rough.:
@Corexy So I set the e3d thermistor up and now its reading -273.1C....
M308 S1 P"temp2" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin temp2Not my area of expertise.
You need @DIY-O-Sphere or @Phaedrux for that.
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@Corexy @DIY-O-Sphere got it sorted for me. Im not sure how but I changed temp1 -> temp2. I had to go to work (I only work to feed my 3d printing habit ) so when I get home I will re-run the PID magic tunes and try printing again, then try the stuff you suggested. I am considering ordering new POM nuts, they felt a little loose to me. I am not sure if it will translate into video but if it does I will upload a video of the wiggle tonight, for your viewing pleasure.
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@CorvoDewittV2 said in Issues with print quality, wall surface rough.:
@Corexy @DIY-O-Sphere got it sorted for me. Im not sure how but I changed temp1 -> temp2. I had to go to work (I only work to feed my 3d printing habit ) so when I get home I will re-run the PID magic tunes and try printing again, then try the stuff you suggested. I am considering ordering new POM nuts, they felt a little loose to me. I am not sure if it will translate into video but if it does I will upload a video of the wiggle tonight, for your viewing pleasure.
Don't change the nuts yet is my recommendation.
Was there any temp reading difference with the new setting?
Why not just run your PIDs, do those 3 steps then print the large cylinder in vase mode?
Costs nothing, and starts at the beginning.
Flipping back and forth will get you nowhere in printing.
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@Corexy I just want to print a cube to see if the proper thermistor settings is the fix. I really did not get a chance to look at the temp too much, as I was going to be late. I did notice that at room temp the bed and hot end where about 2C apart, so I may have to take a closer look at the bed thermistor.
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I would try a print with a lower acceleration (~600). If it looks the same I would guess it is the extruder.
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@dgrat I have tried that in the past and it made no difference, but I can check it again! I am going to need to make a list of all the tests I need to do lol.
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@Corexy @DIY-O-Sphere @Phaedrux So here is a print with the proper thermistor settings. What do you guys think? I feel much closer...
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That's looking better. Have you PID tuned the bed and hotend yet? Bang bang on the bed can cause Z banding, and oscillations at the hot end could cause similar issues with variable extrusion from varying temps too.
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@Phaedrux Yep!! What do you think the line is right above the X? I think I am experiencing some z binding for sure now, would you agree?
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Clearly that is better, so you've identified the major config error I alluded to earlier in the thermistor setting, which was identified by DIY.
I can't give you any more tips to dialing it in than I have already. Step by step is the key.
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@Corexy I think there is still some Z-Binding, what do you think?
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The line above the X could be due to the fact it's an unsupported overhang and is probably being treated as bridging.
What does a larger vase mode print look like now?
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@Phaedrux We will find out in a bit, printing a large cylinder right now. I feel like I am very close now, I sure hope so at least.
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@CorvoDewittV2 said in Issues with print quality, wall surface rough.:
@Corexy I think there is still some Z-Binding, what do you think?
Lol....I think you should go through the steps previously recommended, then print the single walled cylinder in vase mod and that will definitively tell you whether you have a binding Z axis.
If you print your vase mode test with the wrong temp and extrusion multiplier (retraction doesn't matter for this one), you won't see it as clearly as you could.
Seriously...it's like slamming your #$%^ in a door...you'd stop after the first time.