Making a heated chamber
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Hello,
Has anyone tried to make one using one of these, or similar?
Can something like this be made to be controlled by Duet?
I was planning to just plug in a dumb 110v ceramic heater. I'm only trying to get to 50-60C inside my chamber that currently will get to 40C just with my bed and hotend running.If there is something easier cheaper, I'm all ears
Thanks in advance
Jake
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A: No.
B: Yes, you could use the Duet's heater outputs to switch an SSR which would turn the 110VAC supply on or off.
But if you do that, you could just add a temperature sensor, connect it to the Duet and control the SSR and heater directly.There's no advantage to using one of these if you want to be able to control the heater from the Duet. The Duet already has a much more sophisticated temperature control loop and can use a wide range of sensors.
I would only use something like this if I wanted to be able to control the heater with the Duet turned off, for some weird reason. Or maybe because I had no available outputs left on the Duet to switch an SSR with.
You should be able to get an SSR and a temperature sensor for less than the cost of that device. Plus you will be able to actually control the temperature beyond on/off.
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Okay that's a fairly good point, I didn't think of doing an SSR like the heated bed. DUH! "SMH"
What about a 24v heater.. are there reputable options you recommend?Something like this with these thermistors and 40A DC-to-DC SSR?? I should be able to tie into my existing power supply for this application right? And plug the ports into the D2W bed heater 1, edit config.g and control within DWC?
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I would suggest you don't even think about using 24V .... yes, if your DC supply has enough grunt it might handle that but why stress it out.
I didn't notice you mentioning how big your chamber is and how insulated it is but think of it in terms of a bed heater .... how much power have you currently running on the bed heater that gets you to 40C? You will need more power to get you to 60C as you have higher losses but if your bed is mostly off because it is very high power then you might be able to run a heater the same wattage as your bed.
In any case, unless it is a very small printer, 250W doesn't sound high enough. At that point you might as well see if you can put in a string of light bulbs (incandescent) and have the light as a bonus. -
@jens55 yeah it's 34" L x 30"w x 30" T, Double walled Cardboard with inner surfaces tinfoil lined. The top definitely leaks, I need to add some foam adhesive strips to fill gaps.
This is my design, ABS plastic fittings hold it together
Honestly, I don't need DWC control just want something with temp monitoring and shutoff. For obvious reasons. My Amazon special space ceramic heater must have a temp sensor bc I only runs for like 5mins in there before it shuts off, which is nice but it won't stay running long enough
