@o_lampe that is a good observation:). There is an eye icon in the bottom right corner which opens up the usual DWC top panel (this is a feature of the BtnCmd plugin).

Screenshot 2024-11-08 at 14.33.03.png

And if you press the little button with the message bobble icon, it echoes the current polar coordinates to the console.

Screenshot 2024-11-08 at 14.34.45.png

slowly been working on it , here a little update , ive been slowly ordering part, thinking and designing more things .

IMG_20241031_202912877.jpg IMG_20241031_202620263.jpg IMG_20241031_202632510.jpg

@ander , I made all my videos private, but I forgot I had those 2 videos shared here, I made them public again

@Manrhpg1 Do you mean Ivan Miranda ?
which printer model did you follow, and what files did you download from his website.

Duets need to have the end switches to be homed before any other movements are normally recognised, you can get around this by M commands used in the console area of DWC control panel.

You can if you wish contact me directly and we can have a video chat and you can show me what you have got, I would be happy to try and help you and advise accordingly.

Where are you based in the world and we can arrange a meet on WhatsApp.

Contact me on WhatsApp Shaun Richards

@dwak you may still want to peruse the documentation on metacommands so you get an idea how to enable your own codes with parameters

https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Reference/Gcode_meta_commands

@lightface79 hi, have you found anything regarding colouring scheme of 120v psu?

@Zoltan3D some people may have work flows around Duet they use on other machines and prefer consistency. Some may prefer the standalone operations of RRF over Klipper's SBC dependency. Some people may prefer the reliability of Duet hardware. Some people may prefer DWC over the Moonraker front ends ....

many possible reasons, and as often in a hobby involving building stuff, the answer to 'why?' often is 'why not?'

and just for fun, here is a normal benchy printed on it 😛
IMG20240825183834.jpg
(for now I use 0.8mm nozzle, but sucessfully tested a custom made 1.6mm nozzle 😛

@Phaedrux Yes sorry, I don't do this message boards well. It was stabler. Got what I needed to install My SMuFF filament changer. So far only failure point is the Filament cutter. The SMuFF works perfectly. Scripts work without Crashing or giving me error codes not relating to my scripts. I am working on a Filament cutter using two blades from a Wire feed cutter. Had to poll my Direct drive from the Hotend to make room for the cutter. Bummer. But hot end is liter. Futcher add On's to the printer and 8-10 inch screen to the SBC in place of PanelDuo, posable bring back my direct drive extruder.

Note - This is not a Production Printer, just my retirement hobby

@fotomas thanks for sharing it!

@Pete_A Hi. Can you provide the information about Stratasys to duet interface board? Please provide the design file for it.

@MitchMitch you can generate a basic configuration using the reprap configurator as a baseline, to be tuned to your machine's peculiars

@mrehorstdmd Thank you for the detailed answer, I have seen these photos. Well, then I'll try, try, but honestly I'm already giving up a little... I get either a noisy printer or low rigidity, but all options are combined by ripples.

@droftarts said in G29 S0 if G29 S1 not loaded:

Object Model

Hi Ian,
many thanks for your idea. It did work perfectly.
Here below my implementation in start.g

if {move.compensation.type}=="none" echo {"Bed probing started"} G29 S0 ; Probe the bed, save height map to "heightmap.csv" and enable mesh bed compensation echo {"Bed probing complete"} else echo {"Bed compensation already loaded. Bed probing skipped."}

David

@dc42 Hi i checked the page , it suggested me to use the following board instead of the one im using
1eb6e1aa-20b7-4675-9bd1-e478df644860-image.png

@stellator Your first illustration is a Kelvin type kinematic mount. Both Kelvin and Maxwell mounts accomplish the task of allowing the bed plate to expand laterally without bending any mounting screws or causing the plate to flex or lift. The main differences between them are that the Maxwell mount reference point is at the intersection of the three grooves while the Kelvin mount reference point is at the hole or cone in which a ball sits. The other difference is that the Kelvin mount axes can be aligned with the X and Y axes in a machine making it especially easy to tram the bed because adjustment to the roll doesn't affect the pitch of the plate. With a Maxwell mount the axes are usually aligned 120 degrees apart so adjustments at any one point affect both the pitch and roll of the bed, making tramming a little trickier.

This is the bed support in my printer, designed as a Kelvin kinematic mount. The axis with the two spherical screws is aligned parallel to the printer's X axis. One of those balls (the reference) sits in a hole in the bed plate, the other (the pitch adjuster) in a groove that runs parallel to the X axis. The third point (roll adjust) is just a screw that touches the smooth bottom surface of the bed plate. The bed plate has ears for the three adjusters/support screws and is held down on the screws by springs. The reference screw doesn't normally get adjusted when tramming the plate. Tramming is done with a piece of paper between the bed plate and extruder nozzle. Simply adjust the Z position of the nozzle near the reference screw until it just catches the paper, then move the nozzle along the X axis until it is near the pitch adjuster and adjust until it just grabs the paper. Finally, move the nozzle near the roll adjuster and adjust until the nozzle just catches the paper and it's done. The last time I trammed my printer was almost 2 years ago.

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The reference screw sitting in its hole in the bed plate:
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Here's the whole thing:
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All three adjusters are mounted in PTFE blocks that grip the screws firmly but still allow them to be turned for tramming. They also don't mind the heat from the bed plate. If you make anything like this, don't use nylon instead of PTFE. you won't be able to turn the screws (I know, I tried). There's a reason they use nylon in nylock nuts! You don't need to tap the PTFE blocks. Just make slightly undersized pilot holes and thread in the screws. They will roll their own threads into the PTFE.

@DuetUser

I've done this before for a dual drive Z axis on machines in the past without issue. You could give it a shot and report back how it went? The goals of an AWD system for a Voron is to shorten the belt paths, and to get as much power into the motion system as possible.