@fcwilt "*if cost is an issue than 3D printing may not be something for you to invest in.

The amount of money I have spent on filament dwarfs the cost of running the printers.*"

Hehe yeah, that's probably right, but I'd rather save on power than on the filament

"*I suggest you follow the advice to connect both to the board via the SSRs and use a separate temp sensor for each one.

I would also suggest you re-consider using line voltage units.*"

I suspect when you say "connect both to the board via the SSRs" you mean to do it a different way than the one I laid out in the original post? Could you please elaborate on how I would go about doing that?

Is there a line voltage unit you could point me to for 650W heated beds?

Sorry for all the questions, this is my first build...

@fcwilt said in Connecting multiple heated beds to Duet 3 6HC:

I have used Keenovo line voltage silicone heaters for all my printers.
Here is a 120VAC 750 WATT unit

Ah, I live somewhere with 230VAC so I guess that one wouldn't work for me, but I see what you mean now (Sorry, I thought a "line voltage unit" was a PSU since english isn't my native language).

Thank you for all the Info, I will have a look at it, however I am afraid switching to mains power won't be an option immediately due to budget considerations (I already bought the 24v hardware).
However I will keep it in the back of my head and contemplate whether I like fire risk or shock risk better
For the time being I will definitely keep a fire extinguisher handy just in case.

@fcwilt said in Connecting multiple heated beds to Duet 3 6HC:

You may want to purchase some silicone insulated wire to run power to your 24 volt heaters.

That's what I bought I use 10AWG silicone wire for everything in the heated bed circuit (except for the input side of the SSRs, since those are low Voltage and amperage).
I'm trying not to set anything on fire haha

@gloomyandy Lol, I re-entered the SD card (for the fivehundredth time) and now it works?! Thanks for the reply haha

SD card is in the reader and the contents are as described in the documentation, but I will triple check.

Edit: M115 also works which I would not expect if the SD card wasn't properly connected, right?

Hello all,

I am currently trying to set up my Duet3 6HC mainboard and ran into the problem that I could not open DWC to finish the guide here: ​https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/1.)+Getting+Connected+to+your+Duet/7

After trying to fix the problem myself, of course I managed to make it worse.
Now when I try to check the Network status using M552, the Duet tells me "Error: M552: Network-related commands are not supported when using an attached Single Board Computer" even though I am running the board in standalone mode (or at least I set it up following the guide for standalone mode).

Has anyone ran into the same problem already and knows how to fix it?
Any help is greatly appreciated!

@hackinistrator said in Connecting multiple heated beds to Duet 3 6HC:

if the current is anywhere near 30A , i would use double 10awg wire , as 10awg wont be enough for hours of printing + hot bed .

I made a mistake in my previous posts, since 30A is actually what the PSUs can put out, but the 650W 24V heated beds should actually "just" pull a maximum of 27.08A.

The Extruder heater is powered via another PSU so it won't add anything to that.

for slicer setting ,simple solution is to configure the second bed as "chamber heater" (if you don't use one anyways) , then just activate it in slicer setting if needed .

Yes, I have read about that, too. In that case I would connect one to the OUT0 and the other to OUT 1, 2 or 3, right?

But I have also read that SSRs can't really handle PWM signals, because it's at too high a frequency and you should rather use a "bang-bang" mode?

@fcwilt said in Connecting multiple heated beds to Duet 3 6HC:

You may want to purchase some silicone insulated wire to run power to your 24 volt heaters.

That's what I bought I use 10AWG silicone wire for everything in the heated bed circuit (except for the input side of the SSRs, since those are low Voltage and amperage).
I'm trying not to set anything on fire haha

@fcwilt said in Connecting multiple heated beds to Duet 3 6HC:

I have used Keenovo line voltage silicone heaters for all my printers.
Here is a 120VAC 750 WATT unit

Ah, I live somewhere with 230VAC so I guess that one wouldn't work for me, but I see what you mean now (Sorry, I thought a "line voltage unit" was a PSU since english isn't my native language).

Thank you for all the Info, I will have a look at it, however I am afraid switching to mains power won't be an option immediately due to budget considerations (I already bought the 24v hardware).
However I will keep it in the back of my head and contemplate whether I like fire risk or shock risk better
For the time being I will definitely keep a fire extinguisher handy just in case.

@Phaedrux Oh, that makes sense. Sorry.

Does the output I use for this have to be PWM capable?

@fcwilt "*if cost is an issue than 3D printing may not be something for you to invest in.

The amount of money I have spent on filament dwarfs the cost of running the printers.*"

Hehe yeah, that's probably right, but I'd rather save on power than on the filament

"*I suggest you follow the advice to connect both to the board via the SSRs and use a separate temp sensor for each one.

I would also suggest you re-consider using line voltage units.*"

I suspect when you say "connect both to the board via the SSRs" you mean to do it a different way than the one I laid out in the original post? Could you please elaborate on how I would go about doing that?

Is there a line voltage unit you could point me to for 650W heated beds?

Sorry for all the questions, this is my first build...

@Phaedrux
"Well it's more fire risk than shock you risk. The wiring required for carrying 30A at 24v would be thicker and stiffer. Not really an issue if you take proper precautions with the correct gauge wiring and strain relief and cable chain for bend radius management if the bed will be moving."

I use 10 awg copper wire for everything that has 30A and I do plan on using cable chains. That should be fine, right?

"i would control each bed from different out , each with own thermistor ."

This sounds like I misunderstood something in the Duet 3 6HC documentation. I thought the board only has one out for a heated bed?

@Phaedrux Is 24V 30A "worse" than 230V 2.83A? As in "kills you worse"?

I mean, I have already bought the hardware so I will probably go with it, but I'm still curious to know.

Anyway, do you have some advice on my original question as well? I would really appreciate it.