Posts made by X4TEC

Thanks all, must have been, that I set to low. Works fine since I set to 290.

Ill double check but I'm sure I adjusted M143 to 285 and it made no difference.

I've installed the latest firmware on my duet WiFi with pt100 sensor board. I've checked config file, but if i try to set temp to anything beyond 280 printer just ignores the temp. I even tried gcode directly. Is it possible I have a hardware issue. I've got other issues with extrusion which I can't resolve. I did drop a screwdriver on the board. I advanced digs I can run?

@Sabagmn:

I would also double-check if you have a config-override.g file with G31 gcodes in it. Those will override your G31 settings in config.g
Had that happen to me before and ended up having to comment them out.

Hi Sabagmn. not got any G31 in my config-override file.

@Nylkos:

Do you have G92 Z0 anywhere other then homez.g or homeall.g?

Hi Nylkos, I don't have G92 in any of the home files,

Hi anyone experience the following?

I have a P3Steel with Duet Wifi and IR sensor.

After a successful first print, I find that my second print always starts +.6mm above the correct Z point (ie if layer is .2 the print starts at .8, and reads as such on console). If I reset the electronics it prints correctly. The g-code job is exactly the same job, the printer homes the Z correctly, and I've done the paper under the nozzle check, but I can not work out where the extra .6mm is coming from.

PS the extruders are not great!

I've just manged a print, via a convoluted post processing script for Simplify3D, now i need to tune

CaLviNx, this is my first Bowen, much prefer a direct drive, totally agree the acrylic extrudes are not that brilliant. Have you switched yours out for the one in the picture?

I've finally got around to building a machine, now I need to workout all the settings. Anyone tried this yet?

I've just been experimenting with sending the S3D output to the Duet Web Control using the rr_upload api. Its a work in progress and what I'd love to be able to do is upload to job to the SDcard via DWC from S3D, then see the job in the live preview, but not sure it will work that way.

I'm on windows so I installed CURL, then you added the following to the additional terminal post processing section of the S3D profile.

curl -d "@[output_filepath]" -X POST http://xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx/rr_upload?name=gcodes\S3D

I've just got it to work so may not be the final script. Ideally I'd like to store the upload with the model name, but I've not found the S3D attribute to send instead of "\S3D"

@MKGC:

Thank you X4TEC

Hi MKGC,
How have you got on with your aNET A8? Can you share the config you applied?

@MKGC:

Thank you dc42. I'll give it a shot.

Just in the process of setting aNet A8 with a Duet WiFi. I'm struggle trying to translate the Marlin setting to ReprapFirmware figures for speed / acceleration etc., its the use of mm/s^2 and mm/m that get me confused. I got the below figures off another firmware. I'll let you know once I get them in a sensible format for my Duet. Also I, changed the wiring of my micro switches to follow the advice on the Wiki about having micro switches configured for normally-closed contacts.

#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 2, 25} // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {3000,3000,100,10000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves.
#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 200 // X, Y, Z and E acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000 // E acceleration in mm/s^2 for retracts
#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z acceleration in mm/s^2 for travel (non printing) moves
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK 20.0 // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.4 // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_EJERK 5.0 // (mm/sec)

Hi,

Ive got one of these on order, and wondered if anyone else had got there's yet, and most importantly got it working on the duet wifi? I'm assuming it should just be just a case of connecting and configing a second extruder /tool.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/811909269/the-prometheus-system-intuitive-multi-filament-3d

I've already seen there are some challenges with using simplify3d.

@T3P3Tony:

That appears likely.

Many thanks, thermistor shorted to hot end, I've switched to a screw in type as this is the second issue from thermistor shorts. Replacing the fuse was a fun job even with my reasonable soldering skills.

@T3P3Tony:

Hmm a circuit between the heatblock and a thermistor wire is not right. To confirm can you make sure the thermistor is not plugged into the board when you test it.

Thermistor wasn't plugged in when I tested. Just ordered a replacement fuse, but before it arrives I'll disassemble the hot end as I assume thermistor must have shorted to hot end.

@T3P3Tony:

Check the circuit between the heatblock and the thermistor and between the heater block and the heater cartridge. The heater cartridge could have failed in a manner that makes the heater block have VIN present on it.

I checked my heat block, no vin, but I did see 60Ohm from heatblock to thermistor, not sure if that sounds right.

I've just gone and blown my fuse F1, found this info really helpful and quickly identified the fuse, thanks really helpful info.

Nozzle caught on my table glass clip, which some how caused the fuse to go. I've checked the thermistor's and they read around 80K and the Hothead its about 14Ohm and bed aroundt 5/6Ohm, so no obvious shorts. Not having much fun with this 3d printer game.

This is a makerslide Ord Bot type printer.

I upgraded from the supplied PrintrBoard controller to the Duel WiFi. Had a few issues at first, plus I still have lots of hardware issues getting reliable and stable build area. The issues I had with the Deut were of the configuration nature, which were soon resolved thanks to help from @dc42

This hasn't been the best printer, but I am impressed with my choice of DuetWifi for the electronics. No doubt I'll continue to build and refine the base printer as I go on.

I'm currently awaiting a Kickstarter dual y type feeder.

@dc42:

To park the head when the print finished, add appropriate moving and/or homing commands at the end of your slicer end gcode, just before the M0 at the end. Alternatively, just put M0 in your slicer end gcode and define the shutdown sequence in /sys/stop.g.

Many thanks, I believe my original resetting issues have been resolved. I'm still trying to get a print out of the machine, as my use of the manufacturers Marlin settings, plus a possible extruder issue has caused me some problems. Once i get over this hurdle in the next few days, I will play with my setting to help find the original cause. It does sound like its probably that zero jerk speed for the Z axis in the M566 command.