Posts made by v0i9viper

I think I would like it cleared when the print completes. If you need a permanent change add or subtract the baby steps just used to homed height so the next print doesn't need to be stepped. If you print the curreent baby step offset before clearing it the user can go to the console and see the value. Thius way forces you to update your printer if you needs baby steps. What I really would like to see is the mesh correction appllied at each location diisplayed..

After I loaded the height map m122 shows all z probes points as zero. Is that bad?

What is an easy way to test if I need a new display or a new PanelDue? I thought of installing Atmel Studio and finding a helloworld example for an LCD. I've even worked with GLCD on other platforms so it shouldn't be too bad since I have your source as a reference. Thanks for replying. This may be a dumb question, but can I use a Raspberry Pi 7" touch screen? The ribbon connector is wider than the one on the 4.3, but I think that may be due to resolution. With the new PanelDue board of course.

I may have moved the jumper, or shorted the the 4 connection pins. I can reflash the firmware with no errors, but get only the screen backlight. Is there any way to test the panel due board to determine if I killed it or the display? I have a 2.3" TFT that is 240x320, it also shows only a white screen. Sorry to bother you with a problem I caused. I don't want to replace the Panel Due and find out the TFT is dead. The Due board looks like it has some kind of debug or flash onnetions labeled X4.a

Yes, I\m going through the doumentation again tonight following all the steps for G32 and G29. I\ll post the map details when done. I think missed a step. My height map was almost perfect, but after clearing mesh compensasion is off by over 2mms in one corner. If you don't explicitly clear prior compensation can the values stack up?

Before printing I run a calibration and a new mesh probe. However, my first layer is never consistent. Some areas are not printing low enough for good adhesion, other areas are too low and only a smear is printed. I have manually leveled the bed so there is less than 0.3 mm difference in the highest and lowest spot, but I can't seem to get a consistent first layer. If I run G29 S0 then print a simple square should it print smoothly, with the same amount of squishing ( technical term) of the filiment into the glass? Am I missing something? I'm using a smart effector so tilt should not be an issue.

I tried static, sending m552 s0, setting the ip to a valid one , then m552 s1. setting the IP to all zeros,then m552 s1. Nothing worked at all. On a hunch I grabed an old lynksys router and connected my printer and laptop to that. Of course it works just like it should.
5260
There is an obvious problem with Spektrum's newest offering, the Sagecom Fast 5260. I found a reference to some MAC addresses being blocked, but no place to block a MAC address, or even really view a log file. I'm using my router from now on. Thanks for replying. I was totally lost until I searched and found the commands to send to test my network. based on what you had me send.

I also figured out the ABS heating issue. It was heating fine, I had the wrong steps per mm for my extruder and had never calibrated the ADC on the duet.

I still get a 4mm z offset from somwhere when running mesh compensation. all probee values are 4.XX instead of 0.xx. weird.

heres my config
; Configuration file for Mini Kossel kit from Think3DPrint3D

; Communication and general
M111 S0 ; Debug off
M550 Printer ; Machine name and Netbios name (can be anything you like)
M551 Preprap ; Machine password (used for FTP)
M540 P0xBE:0xEF:0xDE:0xAD:0xFE:0xEA ; MAC Address
;*** Adjust the IP address and gateway in the following 2 lines to suit your network
M552 P0.0.0.0 ; IP address (0 = use DHCP)
M554 P192.168.1.1 ; Gateway
M553 P255.255.255.0 ; Netmask
M555 P2 ; Set output to look like Marlin
M575 P1 B57600 S1 ; Comms parameters for PanelDue
G21 ; Work in millimetres
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves

; Axis and motor configuration
M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; Drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S1 ; Drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S1 ; Drive 3 goes forwards
M569 P4 S1 ; Drive 4 goes forwards
M574 X2 Y2 Z2 S1 ; set endstop configuration (all endstops at high end, active high)
;*** The homed height is deliberately set too high in the following - you will adjust it during calibration
M665 R206.4 L360 B150 H382.17 X0.482 Y-0.244 Z0.00 ; set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height
M666 X-2.193 Y0.589 Z1.605 A-0.12 B-0.15
; Heater model parameters
M307 H0 A90.0 C700.0 D10.0 S1.00 V0.0 B1
M307 H1 A511.2 C214.6 D11.3 S1.00 V0.0 B0
M307 H2 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0
M307 H3 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0
M307 H4 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0
M307 H5 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0
; put your endstop adjustments here, or let auto calibration find them
M92 X100 Y100 Z100 ; Set axis steps/mm
M906 X1200 Y1200 Z1200 E1200 I60 ; Set motor currents (mA) and increase idle current to 60%
M201 X3000 Y3000 Z3000 E1000 ; Accelerations (mm/s^2)D
M201 X3000 Y3000 Z3000 E1000 ; Accelerations (mm/s^2)
M203 X20000 Y20000 Z20000 E3600 ; Maximum speeds (mm/min)
M566 X1200 Y1200 Z1200 E1200 ; Maximum instant speed changes mm/minute
M555 P2 ; Set output to look like Marlin
M575 P1 B57600 S1 ; Set auxiliary serial port baud rate and require checksum (for PanelDue)

G21 ; Work in millimetres
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves

; Fans
M106 P1 H1 T45 S1 ; hot end fan
M106 P2 H100:101 T45:55 L0.3 ; electronics cooling fan

; Thermistors and heaters
M305 P0 T100000 B3950 R4700 H0 L0 ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the bed thermistor ADC correction
M305 P1 T100000 B4188 R4700 H0 L0 ; Use RTD to monitor Heater 1 temperature

; Enable logging after setting the heater models to avoid logging the usual warnings of overpowered heaters
M929 S1 P"eventlog.txt"

; Tool definitions
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
G10 P0 S0 R0 ; Set tool 0 operating and standby temperatures
;M563 P1 D1 H1
;G10 P1 S0 R0 ; Set tool 0 operating and standby temperatures

M92 E100:100 ; Set extruder steps per mm

; Z probe and compensation definition
M558 P8 H8 F1000 T12000 R0.8 S0.05 A3 ; Z probe is delta effector, Z probe dive height 3mm, probing speed 1000mm/min, travel speed 12000mm/min, max 5 taps, tolerance 0.02mm
;M558 P8 H6 F1000 T10000 R0.4 S0.02 A1 ; Z probe is delta effector, Z probe dive height 3mm, probing speed 1000mm/min, travel speed 12000mm/min, max 5 taps, tolerance 0.02mm
G31 X0 Y0 Z-0.32 P100 ; Set the zprobe offsets and threshold (put your own values here)
M208 Z-6 S1
M557 R120 S60 ; Define grid

;*** If you are using axis compensation, put the figures in the following command
M556 S78 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Axis compensation here

M501 ; run config-override.g

T0 ; select first print head

i upgrqded the firmware, now I an't get a network connetion at all okI tried looking in my router logs for errors, but don't see anything. Pronterfae is urrently on Ubuntu, and my windows partition wasn't found today. I have been running screen but don't know how to force an attempt to connect. I saw some diagnostic commands from Chris somewhere. Hope I can find them. BTW, can DWC be run from USB? There should be an alternternative that really works for linux. Maybe I can get screen to work properly, with echo and formatted output.

I think I'm still on 1.21rc2 firmware. One thing I have noticed is DWC will still run without a connection from the browsers cache, which could be confusing. Refresh your browser and DWC can't connect either. I have tried DHCP and a static IP, but only DHCP after changing the MAC address works for me. Are there diagnostics I can log or run?

Also, somehow I get a 4.000mm offset for my Z access when running bed mesh compensation. Every probe point shows a 4mm shift upwards. My G31 has Z0.22, and the only reference I see to a 4 is the M558 probe height. I will post my config file as soon as I get a network connection or go get the SD card again.

David

If possible describe exactly how to recreate the problem. If they can see it happen a quick fix is much more likely.

I actually had my taz 4 burn up because the temp probe came loose and missed the glowing red. heater block. It was totally my fault and not the original hot end.

I don' know why reply doesn't work for me. More info on my temp problemn
. I found a thermocouple and stuck the tip in the hole in the hotend. 342 F and the printer read 220 C. My VOM only measures in F. I messed around with the M305 settings to get the temps measured via thermocouple up to 430 F, 221 C. The extruder worked again, but the abs still was very firm and jammed a lot. Then the thermocouple started reporting temps up to 600 F, and nothing was changing with the DWC display temps, or the actual filiment. How hot does ABS need to be? This is some older filiment and needs to be dried out. Could the water content cool the filiment as it flashes to steam? I'm really confused by this. I think I'm going to get a thermocouple for the printer, unless the PT1000 sensor is better. I have not researched that.
Any insight will be most welcome. I'll post bed pics in a few minutes, mostly because I'm so pleased with how level it is after adding an aluminum plate under a SeeMeCNC heater and 3mm of boroglass. I cut the round glass myself since I couldn't find 300mm in stock anywhere online and did not want to wait three weeks. If you ever need round glass it is easy with a 15$ circle cutter and emory cloth to smooth the edges. My first attempt was almost perfect.

You will probably need a device like the one above to feed the extruder. Otherwise you have to know the radius of the remaining filiment on the spool to calculate the correct number of turns to get the right length. I built a stand where the spool sits on two rollers on the floor, and the filiment runs through some PTFE tubing to the top of the printer then to the extruder .

Smart effector E3C, with parts swapped for 3mm. I have another question. Can I use the output if auto calibration to adjust my printer frame to be better aligned? I added an aluminum plate under the bed, be measured the vertical supports to get them all exactly 400mm, but I think my endstops are still off based on the auto calibration.m not 100% sure what the M666 offsets are measuring.. I could not believe how little the errors were when leveling the bed. I really want to print something to see how good the first layer is now. It's always been a struggle to get a good first layer.

I could not set a higher temp so I raised the thermistor resistance value all the way up to 9000k to get some old ABS to flow properly. I think I have a VOM with a thermocouple if I can find it. How else can I check the actual temps? I just rebuilt my 300mm bed kissel and the bed deviation was like 0.028. The new smart effector is wonderful. I am also curious about the constant fan on the hotend. How much cooling do you want in the heat brake? Should filiment stay solid there? I seen to have less issues if I run the constant fan at about 59%. Is that ok or am I messing something else? Rex

I have started looking at the effector code, wondering if it is possible to detect a bed strike and shut down the printer if it happens. I know it's easier to detect an event like a single hit, but if you get several rising signals in a row during a bed crash that would be nice to stop ..

Thanks,
David