Posts made by TKWARD

@dc42

I'm going ahead with it.

Jumpers removed.
CS is set to CS_1.
Tank Capacitor value changed, and resistors added as per your suggestion.

Just waiting on an assembly price from Chinese supplier.

I'd like to send you a few boards to test with the firmware. ( Take this offline and get address etc via pm ?? )

Thanks
Keith

@dc42 Thanks David.

The ground is definitely commoned.

I'll add the resistors as per your suggestion.

Would the firmware changes be added just for this project ? Or, does it need to be added to the features 'wishlist' for Duet 2 firmware ?

How would this be operated in terms of G code ? with M150 command ?

Also, assume that if a thermocouple board is used, only 2 of the CS would be available anyway ?

Thanks,

Keith

@dc42

See replies below ...miss-tagged them ... there is a pdf with potential circuit diagram of addon board

@dc42

Will this work ?

Did you see my previous questions ?

Duet-LED-Driver.pdf

That's what I was alluding to. I can design a cheap pcb with the 74HCT02 and some connectors ( with a set of jumper to select an appropriate CS ).

Would the firmware changes be added just for this project ? Or, does it need to be added to the features 'wishlist' for Duet 2 firmware ?

I'll post a circuit diagram in the coming days for the potential design.

@bearer Missed that bit ..... DOH!!

Another thought .... your WiFI network ... Does it allocate DHCP addresses ? or expect static IP addresses ?

If DHCP... then use the M550 machine name command, and let it auto allocate the IP address ( don't try to specify one ).

You can then ping it in command prompt with : ping machine name.

Once you get YAT connected you can run the M588 S"*" first.

Then follow the getting connected guide.

I would follow @bearer advice ..... Use YAT as per the guide ..... Also, before following that guide run M588 S"*" to delete any saved networks ....... it will save confusion later on.

I would set a machine name using M550.

If network IS connecting but not assigning an IP address that you think it is, you can still find the machine by pinging it from Windows command prompt using "ping machine name" .... It will print the IP address and response time if it is on the network. If not then you have at least a clue that its not seen.

@dc42

David,

Was this code ever implemented ?

I presume connection is via the Therm Board connector ?

I have a circuit diagram fleshed out based on your notes above ..... with CS jumpered to either CS1 through 4.

The obvious caveat is that the thermocouple usage wold be limited to 2 max ?

Also, what would the M150 command look like ? Eg .... for using CS3

( I have working discrete 24v LED driver strips working on other machines via the fan outputs .... I just fancy having a go at this.... maybe make a PCB if enough people are interested .... )

Thanks
Keith

@Thumperprints3d

I don’t have access to that printer now. But I did the same thing on my newly designed printer. It works well.

I’ll find a link to a facebook video I did.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0r_c5pXsyEkLXms1RtpnTJ0Lg#East_Petersburg

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0fsVizVvVhX7C6ozDleqotlGQ#East_Petersburg

@dc42

Thanks David. I got it running fine

Im just dealing with retraction issues right now. I have 2 mechanically identical corexy machines, both with Duets.

The older one is a dual bowden system with E3D Titans and a chimera hotend. Config is perfect. Firmware is V1.20.

I copied the config to this new machine, which is a direct drive Titan and E3D, and at first glance seemed to be fine. Mechanical tweaking got things sorted.

I obviously changed retraction and pressure advance values from from 6.5mm and PA of 0.2, but i am getting corner blobs and just unexplained issues surface issues even at very low speeds ( 20 mm/sec upwards ). I have changed the hotend, the motor ( from 0.9 deg back to 1.8, and back again, different PLA ).

Frustrated beyond belief, but not beaten........yet.

@dc42

Thanks David. Board is too damaged (I think) to refit another driver.

I have got it all reinstalled with the config changes you proposed, and intend to use as a single extruder system.

I just need to set the config for heater1, thermocouple 1, extruder 2, and tool 0 so that I dont need to change gcode .

Keith

@dc42

David, I have desoldered the E0 ( drive 3 ) TMC 2660 now, and there are blown tracks underneath the chip.

I have made sure there are no shorts ( microscope ), but the firmware is still reporting :

Error: short-to-ground reported by driver(s) 3
Error: over temperature shutdown reported by driver(s) 3

Is this expected when E0 driver chip not connected to SPI ? How do I get rid of the warnings / errors reported for this driver only ?

Otherwise X,Y,Z and E1 functionality has been restored.

Keith

Looks like the solder reflow station is going to get a workout .....

I have 5 Duet wifi and this is the first faulty one. It's a shame it blew up so soon after commissioning though.

David,

I have just had exactly the same failure mode. Duet Wifi, Firmware 2.02, board V1.03 from Filastruder.

I changed the E0 motor to a 0.9 degree E3D, literally an unplug ( while off ) and re-plug. Changed e-steps in config.g, and bang! E0 fails to ground. I since tried the motor and cable on an old MKS gen L and it works fine btw.

Measuring resistance across GND and motor outputs show a dead short, same to +VIN.

Other motors refuse to work, but otherwise all other functions are ok ( heaters, endstops, and IR sensor detection ).

This board was only soak tested on the machine I was modifying cycling X Y Z for 10 - 12 hours on Saturday after being in storage for since new ( March last year ).

Ideas ?

Keith

Thanks David ....All working correctly now!

Excellent. Thanks!!

If I needed additional logical switches I assume I can use the original ones I listed with no additional preamble ?

.............and as per your suggestion, and to make sure I get this right,

I need to use :

M307 H3 A-1 C-1 D-1 Frees up the E2 pin on header ( pin 8 )

Then I can use :

M42 P3 S128 to give me 50% duty cycle PWM on pin 8

and M42 P3 S0 to turn it off.

( it's going to be an allnighter I think )

Keith

Thanks for the prompt response David.

I can't find the 'internal' pin number for those. I can see the heaters on the header drawing ( 8,13,18,23,31)

Unless its an M42 E2/3/4/5/6 S0 - 255 command ?

Keith