Thanks for the correction hendricks.

You can setup macros but you will also need to edit the retract and deploy system files as those are what m402 and m401 call.

Anyways, here is my bed.g file, which I call by just clicking the auto bed compensation button, or G32.

M557 X50:150 Y50:150 S25    ; Define grid

T0                          ; Select tool 0
G91 			    ; Relative mode   
G1 Z10 F150		    ; Make sure everything clears the bed                     

; ------------ Home Z ---------------------

G90                         ; Absolute mode
G1 X110.5 Y72 Z6 F4000      ; Home at center of bed, my offsets are X-10.5 and Y28
M401                        ; Deploy probe
G30                         ; Home Z-axis

;----------- Mesh Level ------------------

G29                         ; Start mesh level
M374                        ; Save results, but this might not be necessary 
M402                        ; Retract probe 

G1 X20 Y20 Z10 F3000        ; Dock position

You should really take a look at the 3030 Haribo. I used the basic frame design and from there did my own thing, and now I have a really good printer that I learnt so much from. I've become really confident with CAD design among other skills, but it did take a decent amount of time.

If you have the spare time, even an hour or less per day, I would highly recommend building a 3030 Haribo or at least using the design as a starting point. The MK2 stock frame is garbage anyways and the wait time is ridiculous.

I agree with Sniffle, using the bl touch for homing is great and if your bl touch works (just test deploy and retract) then there isnt really much of a reason to use a endstop over the probe for homing.

Also you can use m400 and m401 (double check) to retract and deploy the probe.

Last thing I am not sure if most people do it differently, but I use my bed.g file and I fill it with my mesh leveling code, well it homes first in the center and then does the mesh leveling. I can copy it if you want

that worked! thank you so much

do you know the reason why?

Hi,

So I have run out of ideas, I cant get M98 to work. Macro file name is simply "test", so I thought M98 Ptest.g would work, but nope, haven't gotten it or the many variations I have tried to work, including turning off "covert all gcodes to capitals". I also tried to specify the internal SD card with P0 but that didn't work either.

I also took out my microSD card, and reformatted it, made sure I had the correct folder structure (https://duet3d.com/wiki/SD_card_folder_structure)…. its still not working.

Does anyone have any ideas? I had it working fine previously, so I have no idea how to fix this.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Hi guys,

I am not sure if this is posted somewhere or common knowledge (searched but couldn't find anything), anyways I found a beautiful model of the Duet Wifi on grabcad, and I just wanted to let others know as it's been quite useful for a printer I'm designing.

Here's the link!

Im glad I could provide some useful information!

Prusa was trying to work together with someone from the original slic3r, but apparently that slowed development too much so he created his own branch. Recently the original slic3r has been getting updates, but I still found it was crashing too often, and the Prusa edition has some cool features like variable layer height and is updated more frequently.

dc42, I had the same problem, loved slic3r but the constant crashing led me to s3d. I tried the Prusa edition a few months ago, and I have been using it ever since (I use both slic3r and s3d now) without a single crash.

It's becoming embarrassing what s3d lacks, I really wish they would start releasing major updates again.

Toshi, you should probably decrease your trigger height. 3.15 is an awfully big trigger height, and since your dive height is only 5 (in m558), your z axis only goes up from 3.15 to 5mm, which is too short of a z-lift after each probe, which makes the probe report that it is already trigger before the travel move.

Your BL touch pin (the very tip) should be 2mm above the tip of your nozzle when retracted, which gives most people a trigger height of around 1.5mm. Your dive height of 5mm is normal, so either you need adjust your mount so you can lower your trigger height (by mounting the probe higher), or you miscalculated your trigger height. 3.15mm would be dangerously close to the height of the nozzle, and could catch during prints, so I think that it is more likely that you made a mistake when calculating the trigger height.

If I am printing something which has small holes that need to be close to the exact model dimension, I switch over to the Prusa edition of Slic3r.

Slic3r has a speed setting called "small perimeters" and basically any small hole (radius less than 6.5mm) will use whatever speed I set, which is usually 10-15mm/sec, and then I can keep my outline speed high and not have to ruin my print times, or find work arounds like above.

I like s3d, but I wouldn't pay 140 dollars for it. It lacks too many basic features, so I find myself having to switch between slicers every now and then.

I didn't use my microwave during the print, otherwise I would have connected the two. Also I believe it is the Duet because I don't ever have any issues with the connection dropping on other devices. I was gaming and my girlfriend was watching netflix during my last print and neither of us noticed any connectivity issues or lag. The printer is in the same room as me btw.

I will try to restart the router if it happens again, but hopefully it doesn't! I am about to start another 5-6 hour print so I will post if I experience another loss of connection.

Thanks for the help guys.