@dc42 said in Software bundle 3.5.0rc.4 now available:
Duet in standalone mode I have included a release zip for this version. This means that you can simply upload file Duet2and3Firmware-3.5.0-rc.4.zip
Just reporting I have done a fair bit of testing with the latest version on a cartesian printer with Duet2 wifi in standalone mode. I uploaded Duet2and3Firmware-3.5.0-rc.4.zip which installed without issues.
Printing well using both Input Shaping and Pressure Advance. No Wifi issues.
Thank you!
@Phaedrux I would like to add some information to this issue which will hopefully be helpful.
I have a simple setup, Ender 5 Pro with Duet 2 Wifi in standalone mode, no toolboards or other attachments. Running 3.5.0-beta.3.
I just finished installing an LGX Lite extruder and custom fan setup. I calibrated esteps and had some strange issues.
From the PanelDue Extrude retracts and Retract extrudes. I thought I had the direction backwards for the LGX Lite but I did not.
Strangely prints seemed to work. However doing more testing this morning I noticed that the purge at the start of a print actually retracts the purge amount. But then the print proceeds normally.
The same thing happens with the Panel Due in that at some point (seems random) the direction corrects itself.
My point is it may be a more general issue than just toolboards.
If you need any testing done I will be calibrating this printer all day so happy to oblige.
PrusaSlicer is telling your printer to move farther than the bed limits in your config file. That is why the back end of your print is cut off.
It looks like the bed dimensions shown in PrusaSlicer do not match your actual bed so that has to be fixed.
Your part is centered on the bed in the slicer but not on the actual bed.
I have found these issues are related to the origin in the 'bed shape' for PrusaSlicer but the way to fix it is rather complex.
First set the origin in PrusaSlicer Printer Settings - Size and coordinates - Bed Shape - Set to X:0 Y:0. I know that is not how you are supposed to do it but it is the only way I could get it to work. My X = 0 is actually X = +7mm on the bed but I ignore that.
Measure the total movement of your nozzle from your 0, 0 point to the maximum in X and Y. Set those values as the X and Y Size in Bed Shape - Settings.
On my printer my total X travel is 364mm and Y travel is 387mm.
In config.g M208 (Axis Limits) set these same X and Y values. So for my printer:
M208 X0:364 Y0:387
The final part of the solution is to create a custom bed image to show the actual bed limits.
To do this create an image where one pixel = 1mm. This makes it much easier to draw an image to scale. Draw the image to reflect the actual origin. It should also show any keep out zones. In my case I have a glass sheet with bed clips all around. The clips extend 5mm into the bed.
Here is my bed image as an example (Creality Ender 5+ with LGX Lite Pro and REVOsix):
Load the image in PrusaSlicer Printer Settings - Size and coordinates - Bed Shape - Set - Texture - Load and select your custom bed image.
I used a solid red border to indicate where the clips are. Orange is where I do not like to print as it is too close to the edge of the bed. Notice on the left side there is no red area because the nozzle can not reach far enough to touch the clips so there is no danger of hitting them.
The black/striped area at the front of the bed is where the nozzle can reach but there is no bed under it.
This allows me to place objects on the bed in Prusa Slicer and have them print in those exact locations on the actual bed.
I hope that helps.
@jay_s_uk beat me to it. 22Hz does seem low. From your earlier photo it looks like you are using a Delta printer. All of mine are cartesian so I hope my information is applicable. My printers are in the 38 to 45 Hz range. Others on the forum with Deltas are in the 50Hz range. Check your accelerometer is mounted securely.
You should be able to run the input shaping plugin then set a center frequency as you have done. You should then be able to pick an input shaper at the right and do another run to see the effect. I haven't done that last step lately. Instead I just set the frequency in my config and run a test print because there can be undesireable effects from some input shaping settings.
If you have Pressure Advance enabled turn that off. You will have to recheck PA again after you have selected your ideal Input Shaper and frequency/damping.
Instead of 0.2 Damping Factor try 0.1 or 0.
I am not sure a benchy is the best test for Input Shaping. Try the Klipper ringing_tower.stl in vase mode. Many other issues can affect a Benchy. The Ringing_Tower makes the Input Shaping changes very visible. Edit your gcode to change input shapers every 5mm or so then decide which one you are happiest with.
I hope these suggestions are valid for your printer.
Very pleased your printer is working again.
Please let us know how the pressure advance is working in your other topic. Very interested to see if this upgrade fixed your issue.
The test print worked perfectly.
So the Y shifts were due to a configuration error on my part. The motors do need more current to meet the demands of input shaping.
The motors got a bit hotter than I would like by the end of the print but most people would call them warm so that is interesting for me. I will bump up the current in my configs.
Thank you both for the suggestions.
I am wondering if commas and decimals are interchangeable in config.g.
Your M566 uses commas and the rest use decimals.
@carlinicompetizione said in Problems from the second layer to the 7th layer:
M566 X500,00 Y500,00 Z300,00 E1200,00 ; definir alterações instantâneas máximas de velocidade (mm/min)
M203 X3000.00 Y3000.00 Z1000.00 E1200.00 ; definir velocidades máximas (mm/min)
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z250.00 E1200.00 ; definir acelerações (mm/s^2)
First try this version of DWC which has some accelerometer data gathering issues corrected:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1qd4OQXAwT2fin9BYjAkfLMPyyukXC77A
This was provided by @chrishamm and @jay_s_uk
@gbartsch Do not use bang-bang. It can cause artifacts in your prints. Follow the guide for auto tuning here
https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Heaters_tuning
At the end of tuning it will give you the full M307 command for your bed heater. Copy that over your existing M307 in config.g.
@tas This problem has now been solved by @chrishamm. Refer to this post by @alexjx
Go down to the google drive link provided.
Thanks for the combined effort @chrishamm, @droftarts, and @jay_s_uk. Also thanks to @alexjx for zeroing in on the problem so it could be solved.
@SanderLPFRG Make sure you have specified the correct sensor orientation. This is critical so the Duet knows which accelerometer axes match your printer axes.
Check the documentation here:
How to set the orientation
and here:
https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Reference/Gcodes#m955-configure-accelerometer
@gbartsch
I find that to print a really good part you have to print slowly. You also have to print several of the parts and tweak the settings for that specific part.
Then, when you finally have your really good part, you will have had enough time to think up some design changes and start all over again.
@Arminas If the solution is high quality STLs then you also have to try out different slicer resolutions.
In PrusaSlicer it is called G-code resolution (in Print Settings>Slicing). I experimented with this and found 0.5mm was terrible, 0.1mm was ok and 0.0125mm was great. The smaller the value the bigger the g-code file but the better the resolution.
I think the idea of this feature is to reduce g-code file size to not overload the printer's brain but still provide good results. It might be worth a look. The default is 0.0125mm.
Too many variables in too many places if you ask me.
@gbartsch
I place this sort of test code in PrusaSlicer 'Printer Settings' tab. Select 'Custom G-Code' and use the 'After layer change G-Code' box. You could also use the 'Before layer change G-code' box.
Give that a try.
@gbartsch
I have found that every upgrade brings some improvement to print quality.
Of course the slicers have improved too.
@oliof @gloomyandy
I changed L parameter value to the default of 0.25 and the problem is completely gone. No Y shifting at all.
Many thanks, that was an easy fix.
@gbartsch
I noticed you are using D3 in your M572 code. Should it not be D0? That is what I use but I only have one extruder on my printers.
@Arminas These look like Very Fine Artifacts (VFA's). That is the magic name to search for in the forum.
Lots of work has been done on this. Personally I think it is the steppers. I have Creality printers with Duet2Wifi controllers powered by Meanwell power supplies.
I changed every single component but the frames trying to solve this. I changed pulleys, belts, bearings, wheels and wheel bearings. Changed all multiple times with no effect. All are Gates or OpenBuilds now. I changed hotends several times and extruders as well with no real change noticed. Now using Bondtech LGX Pro Lite with Revo6. Prior to that it was Hemera with Volcano.
After you spend enough money on a problem you start to see very minor improvements in print quality but that may be from looking through tears in my eyes.
I finally changed all steppers for E3D units and the VFAs are completely gone.
I have kept up the Duet firmware and DWC versions to the latest. It is possible that that has had an effect. If so, don't tell me, I don't want to know!
@oliof @gloomyandy
I tried the same gcode with Input Shaping disabled and there were no issues with the print so something is up.
In PrusaSlicer on the Printer Settings tab>Firmware>G-code thumbnails
enter 400x400, 160x160
In the format box select QOI
If you enter it the other way around (160x160, 400x400) it doesn't work. Another forum member discovered this and unfortunately I can't remember who to give them credit.