Posts made by sirus20x6

ok I took the board home at lunch so I could use a windows machine. bossa doesn't show anything under serial ports. device manager doesn't show anything under serial ports .....

@droftarts said in Can't connect to duet3d h6c:

am-ba, I’m not even sure

there are a lot

@droftarts no word on what board to select in sam-ba for the 6hc?

@sirus20x6 ok so it looks like sam-ba v3 is not gui, but 2.17 is. I still need to find what board to select

@sirus20x6 so I was able to make some progress. it wasn't the tty or dialout group that I need, but uucp. after adding my user to that I could get ttyACM0 to show up. bossa still can't communicate with it, and the directions for sam-ba are basically non-existent.

trying to follow https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Installing_and_Updating_Firmware

"If using SAM-BA:
For Duet WiFi/Ethernet, select at91sam4e8-ek. For Maestro, select at91sam4s8-ek. Press Connect. A connection error will be reported if the wrong board is selected. "

first of all I have the 6hc which is neither of those so I don't know which one to select. second of all I don't have a gui... sam-ba appears to be a command line tool.

@droftarts well I've tried 3 usb cables so far, but we use usb cables in the product we manufacture so I have a few hundred more I could pull from to test.

I'm on arch linux.
windows is not available to me for testing

I have already followed the duet wont respond guide
Duet 3 MB6HC: There should be a red LED illuminated between the USB connector and SD card socket. The red 5V LED at the edge of the board should also be lit, so should the green 3.3V LED.
the 5v and 3.3v are lit

The DIAG LED may or may not be lit, but can help diagnosis:
Duet 3 MB6HC: DIAG LED is between the reset switch and the SD card socket
I don't have a diag led. I have a status led. it is just barely dimly lit. before erasing the firmware it was brightly lit.

the image flasher steps assume raspberry pi use. while we do have a few thousand pi 3 and pi4s in stock, I wasn't planning on using a pi with this setup.

I have already gone through hte steps for standalone mode formatting. first of all the official "sd card formatting tool" is a broken link. so that can't be used. secondly I really don't understand why I can't use a normal tool like gparted.
I have tried reformatting the sd card and filling it with firmware, sys, and www directories. it's not clear if anything more is needed.

I'll post an image momentarily but it looks fine

I've used duet boards before, but nothing from this generation. the first thing I tried to do was edit the config file to specify an IP and connect over ethernet. when that didn't work I tried usb and couldn't get anything new to show up under /dev/tty*

I tried another cable, and another. I made sure I had permissions for tty. I could see the open moko device with lsusb but I could not get any serial device for it to show up. nothing in dmesg, nothing in comparing ls/dev/tty* before plugging in and after. so then I tried to put new firmware and iap files on from the github page. I thought it might auto update the firmware. no change.

so after running out of options I used the erase firmware button. now the status led is dim, and I still can't get a connection.

I tried the bossa app, but the first thing it wants to know is the com port which the board never registers with my system. I saw that sometimes you may have to clear your firmware several times with a power down in between to get it to take. so I tried that and still no dice.

I've been searching everwhere for an sdcard image so I can reflash the sd card but I can't find that ANYWHERE I've been searching for hours.

Any help would be appreciated as right now this is a paper weight.

@garyd9 Yes I can and good thinking!\

there was one screw, actually it was a nut, that was pretty lose on the mag balls on the carriage side. the pcb shim can sometimes have a bit of friction on it that can mask the fact that they are loose. after find that out I double checked all the mag ball nuts and found another one that was just a little bit loose

Thanks for the tips! i found two loose screws!

Better?
https://i.imgur.com/7liUfV9.png

first print. a cooling fan!

https://i.imgur.com/j15KXRl.jpg

having trouble printing the adapter though because the screw holes fill in. might have to just drill it out and put the cooling fan on and print a second version

I've only ever been able to get 3 successful small prints out of my machine because of the bed level. That's why I decided to upgrade to the duet 2 wifi and get the smart effector. Now I've gotten autocalibration and mesh leveling going, but I'm not sure if what I'm seeing is correct or symptoms of some other issue.

Here is the results from mesh bed leveling https://i.imgur.com/S57stMF.png
it has all these zig zag patterns on the bed.

I still can't get anything to print. after mesh leveling I try to print and some places it sticks well, some places it's too far away, some places too close.

fixed it! I had a single hair of a wire from the gnd connector on the smart effector end laying across to the next pin, i cleaned it up and dabbed a little liquid electrical tape on the wires coming out of the connector.

Thanks for your help with the config side of things!

Software Information
Firmware Name: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet
Firmware Electronics: Duet WiFi 1.02 or later
Firmware Version: 2.03beta2 (2019-02-16b1)
WiFi Server Version: 1.23beta1
Web Interface Version: 1.22.6

it does not stop if i tap the probe after a g30. the green light does blink though.

sneding m558 gives me
Z Probe type 8, input 0, invert no, dive height 40.0mm, probe speed 1200mm/min, travel speed 6000mm/min, recovery time 0.40 sec, heaters normal, max taps 1, max diff 0.03

I'm not sure which one on your link you mean. I have the smart effector so that should be the one under dynamic test. if that's what you mean then yes I've run G30 after a home all and it slowly descends into the bed and crashes into it

Thanks for the tips. I changed z20 to z-0.1 in the G31 line and changed m558 H to 40, and reset the board. it still crashes into the bed.

I do note that trigger height has been updated to -0.1 under settings -> machine properties -> Z-probe -> trigger height

I also double checked the wiring again and it looks solid. it's brand new 18 gauge silicone sleeved wire. The pins are firmly in the connectors and there are no kinks or cuts on the wires.

config was posted already. the link at the very end of that first post.

if you mean machine control -> machine status -> sensors -> z-probe then it reads zero at idle

I have an anycubic kossel mini. Changed out the electronics to a duet 2 wifi and smart effector. trying to get my config.g file setup. at first I couldn't get the zstop max to work with a probe at the same time. then I'm not sure what I changed but it started actually detecting the probe hitting the bed. after testing the center for several times it would complain that auto calibration had failed because it couldnt move to probe point P0 and I should check my probe radius. my probe radius seemed fine and I was trying to adjust my config.g to see if my sensitivity was off or something and now I can't get the probe to register at all. the green light comes on when I tap the effector, and the connectors and wires look just fine, but the probe just crashes into the bed over and over again.

my config