Posts made by simonboydfoley

I get this a lot with my BL Touch. Its always been been the connectors (I use latched Dupont connectors at the hot end side). You could just cut off the connectors and solder a wire all the way back to the duet to eliminate them. What I found worked very well was a 3 x 2 standard block Dupont Connector (not latched) that I used to connect the 3 logic pins to the 50Pin Male connector on the Duet Wifi board (Orange Brown and yellow). It will be these three pins that will be causing the problem.
If you have used the connectors at the hot end side ... the cable they provide is very thin (shit actually) and hard to crimp reliably. I soldered and heat shrinked some solid core wire and used that wire to crimp pins for the connector. It mostly fixed my issue.

FYI Continuity testing dose not always pick up the issue if is a broken pin barb on the connector it can get pushed back in the housing if that's broken and you don't spot that when you continuity test further up the pin on the exposed bit where the barb latches. What happens is that when connecting male to female the broken pin gets pushed back and makes a very poor contact.

Good luck this drives me nuts too.

hi @Phaedrux , Thanks for the reply
to answer your questions, No I will read it now .... not sure it existed at the time I bought my Duet. I'll see if I have done something dumb.

[Edit: The only thing I have spotted that I don't do is cancel previous mesh bed levelling before I set the Z=0 and offset procedures, cant see that being relevant as the G92 z0 when the nozzle is on the bed sets the golden reference point ]
... I attach requested files

homeall.g
homedelta.g
homex.g
homey.g
homez.g
heightmap.csv
config.g

Hi All,
I have a BLTouch Z Probe with my Duet2Wifi for my CR10s printer.
I upgraded to the latest firmware, web server etc and I now get the following error when ever I do a mesh bed compensation;

G29
Warning: the height map has a substantial Z offset. Suggest use Z-probe to establish Z=0 datum, then re-probe the mesh.
49 points probed, min error -1.482, max error -1.175, mean -1.340, deviation 0.077

This is the procedure I normally follow.

(With Z offset set 0 G31 X-40 Y-10 Z0 P25 I1).

1. Home all axis.
2. disable axis limits. (M564 S0, G1 Z0)
3. level the nozzle to the bed and set actual Z (G92 Z0)
4. Work out the actual Z offset needed for the probe (G1 Z10,G30 S-1) x 5
5. work out the average offset and then set the offset in config.g
   G31 X-40 Y-10 Z*** P25 I1 where *** = my calculated offset (positive decimal)
   6). restart the Duet.
   7). home and center.
   8). Run Bed mesh compensation

I get the following graph from the Duet and the error message!

So it shows the bed as being "below Z=0"

so it looks like the duet is mistakenly applying the offset twice ??!?

It dose not seem to be affecting the print so it could just be an error in the software ?

If I do a mesh compensation after setting the Z to the actual Bed I get a more reasonable result ....

@bearer yup I am sure the wiring is correct .... I spent a lot of pain learning that the Stepper Motors that Creality use on the Extruder are different to the ones they use on the X, Y & Z axis ...
(Looking down on the Extruder Motor);

1. Black
3. Blue
4. Green
6. Red

& Reverse the direction in config
Or

1. Red
3. Green
4. Blue
6. Black

Maybe this is the norm for most Motors ... I have only even used a CR10s.

Thanks for the tip ... I have ordered a new crimp tool, pricey .... but it would have been worth it to save the day I lost troubleshooting this issue, when I bent the pin on the new cable I was using to troubleshoot.

Thanks for all your help

@Stephen6309 yup .... I don't speak Danish where I live and I got used to not reading the label ... the irony was .... the flux label was actually written in English! :-0

What a muppet ! When I saw the corrosion that's what I immediately though had happened. I have proper flux now. I paid for being impatient and wanting to get the duet installed before all my tools in my new house had arrived.

I posted this specifically as an example for young players.

@bearer that's correct. That's how I wired it and that is correct for the Stepper Motor used for the CR10 Extruder.

However I managed to find the problem when I got exactly the same problem on the second E1 Stepper Driver .... with both the original and the new temporary cable.

While both cables passed continuity tests I examined the connectors under a microscope and Identified the problem.

Both the Old and the newly made cable had a weak pin2 connection on the Connectors provided by Duet (Blue). It was a nasty coincidence that wasted a lot of time looking for other causes! Ironically the crappy black Dupont connectors 2.5mm were more reliable than the supplied ones with the Duet.
I must admit I don't like the connectors that are supplied with the Duet. I find the JST and Latch Lock Dupont connectors way more reliable and secure and the crimp pins make better contact and are stronger.

It could just be they are an size my crimp tool dose not support properly;

Besides that was not the main reason the connector pins failed after 1 year.

See below .... Corrosion on the original Duet Dupont Connectors I fitted 1 year ago.

This is because i find the supplied connectors from Duet ropey so I usually put a small spot of solder to hold the cable in place while I crimp it as the pin either is just a fraction too big for the slot or a fraction too small and twists in the crimp tool.

This where I think I found the root cause ..... schoolboy howler ... I borrowed the flux from a neighbour while I waited for my amazon order to arrive.

I just asked him to show it to me again ...

This is probably the reason why the pins on the Duet connectors have failed... plumbers flux must have reacted badly with the pins and caused them to corrode, weaken and break off in the plastic Dupont connector.

Doh Doh Doh!

I have just replaced all the connector pins with new ones soldered with a tiny dab of electronic PCB flux and led solder(Pb 38, Sn 60, Cu 2).

Its all working now.

... it was just really bad luck breaking the same pin on the new cable :-@

@bearer Yes I know .... but the contact was good enough and enabled me to experiment with different pin outs.

I have a 2mm pitch JST Kit turning up on Tuesday.

I am now trying to prove the E0 Driver has blown.

I have gone back to a stand Z Driver setup and stopped mapping P4 (E1) to the Z Stepper driver so I could try to use it as the default Extruder instead of P3 (E0).

Not managed to get the software to use E1 instead of E0 yet ....
Watch this space.

If it all works we know its a faulty Board

Could be a red herring but it looks like one of the board SMC components has failed.

This board is mounted upside down so its not possible for something from the power supply to fail and drip onto the duet.

I cleaned this gunk off the corner of the Driver Chip on the E0 Extruder chip but the problem still exists.

That looks like a 220 Ohm resistor next to the chip not a cap I have never seen a resistor blow like that, so I'm wondering if its come from under the Chip.

I'll have to look up the wiring of the chip and seeing if it could have been damaged by that pin.

@Stephen6309 I know that is the obvious assumption.

However this was working fine! And this is the original motor.
I have not changed the cabling.
And I have not changed the settings.
I also have not upgraded the firmware (knowingly).

0_1566143336348_config.g

I have also just run in a new cable and it behaves exactly the same!

It's Bizarre .... I can start playing around with the pin combinations on my spare motor ....but this looks like its all down to the Duet Wifi and its a board / driver fault.

If it was the cabling then I would expect to see the voltage either "all positive" or "all negative" on Red-Blue Green-Black pairs ... because the extruder goes in just one direction when telling the duet to extrude.

What I see the driver doing is go +/- polarity before ending up + at the end of the extrude command.

I'm still troubleshooting, but If anybody has any ideas that could help I would appreciate it.

Basically my CR10s was working fine with the Duet for 6m.

I take a break for 6m and then I notice that my Extruder motor just goes back and forth continually (constantly reverses polarity back and forth).

I have not changed anything.

I replaced the NEMA Stepper Motor ( with a new one ... same issue)
Also note I replaced it with a correct CR10 Extruder motor MS17HD6P4150

https://www.moonsindustries.com/p/nema-17-standard-hybrid-stepper-motors/ms17hd6p4150-000004611110008904

so that the cable cross on pins 3 (Blue) and 4 (Green) is still required.

I test the cable from the connector on the DuetWifi to the Female connector on the Motor and it passes a continuity test OK.

I place a multimeter on the end of the cables on the connector that goes into the motor and perform a test extrusion.

I can see its the Duet Wifi that is constantly reversing the polarity on both coils (Red-Blue) and (Green-Black).

Any ideas why teh DuetWifi would suddenly start behaving like this ?

Next Steps: I was going to run a new connector cable directly from the Extruder Motor to the Duet in case its a dry joint in the cable somewhere making it hard for the Duet to maintain a constant current.

#baffled.

I'm not using a M307 to configure an enclosure heater which is probably my problem, but I followed a guide on the Duet Site.;

My config is below.

However I keep getting thermal cutouts because the thermal runaway setting default is for a hotEnd and expects 1.7 C increase every 1 sec which is too high for an enclosure heater settings.

; H=2 Hot End 2 / Chamber Heater
M141 H2 ; Assign chamber heater to heater 2
M305 P2 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 2
M301 H2 B1 ; Set heater 2 to bang-bang mode
M143 H2 S50 ; Set temperature limit for heater 2 to 50C

I cant seem to see where I can override the default thermal runaway settings

Any help appreciated

Right.

1. Re soldered new thermistor on heat bed .... no change, the problem still exists.
2. Opened the controller box case and buzzed the wire out OK Again.
3. Rewired the thermistor cable directly to the DUET with a new connector and cable. Tested OK.
   4 Reconnected the original thermistor and original wiring loom again and connected it to the duet,

I then noticed that when reassembling the case the power supply that goes in last before screwing the case shut was pressing down on the wire that connected the thermistor to the Duet. This must have been causing the connector on the board to have a bad connection.

Once I moved the wire to relieve the pressure and reconnect everything,.. the original thermistor, cable and wiring loom had no issues.

Problem Solved. It wasn't the thermistor.

Thanks,
I'll replace the thermistor next week. If you see below while its heating ... its OK and relativity accurate its when it gets to its target temperature that its starts becoming erratic

Just sorted out my ABL and Z Offset ,,, then my Keenovo clone 750W 220V AC bed heater (powered via a SSR) starts failing on my first print.

I measured the resistance at 25C to be 108K Ohms but I had no details of the thermistor so I had to research and guess the rest of the thermistor settings.

This setup was working on my Marlin, but I suspect I've been unlucky and have another hardware failure when moving from Marlin to RepRap.

; Heaters
; H=0 Bed
M143 H0 S140 ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 150C
;M301 H0 S1.00 P10 I0.1 D200 T0.4 W180 B30 ; Use PID on bed heater (may require further tuning)
;M307 H0 B0 ; Setting for PID Tuning starting with big bang
M307 H0 A90 C700 D10 B0 ; Set Bed PID Tuning
M305 P0 T108000 B4066 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0

The cable connection pass's continuity testing.
The heater passed the PID Calibration OK.

I'm assuming that this has to be a faulty thermistor?

I've ordered some replacements .... anybody disagree with my diagnosis.

In the first diagram I stuck my heater chamber 100K Thermistor the buildplate for comparison.

Right I have figured it out

My Nozzle Wipe is in my Cura Start G Code section.
Cura does not compensate for the the Nozzle gap\Layer height in the Start GCODE section.... hence the prints always looked wrong (no nozzle gap to extrude filament) leaving my z offset to the full amount.

Unless I had set my Z Off Set in my config.g set to take in consideration my expected layer height, my Nozzle Wipe print would look to close to the bed.
However when I did compensate for the nozle gap in my Config.g The nozzle wipe 1st layer always looked good .... but it was always when the main print happened that the gap suddenly appeared to big and my prints fail.

So Cura only applies the layer height correction in the main body of the GCODE Print not the start GCODE.

Now in Marlin in the Start GCODE I always did a full bed mesh calibration (G29) followed by a Nozzle Wipe before every print!

G28 ;Home
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0
G1 F200 E3
G92 E0

G4 P100 ; delay for BLTouch
G29 ; auto bed leveling
M190 S{material_bed_temperature}
M109 S{material_print_temperature}
M117 Nozzle Clean
G1 X10 Y40 Z0 F1500
G1 X290 E100 F1500
G92 E0

So I am wondering if the G29 in Marlin start GCODE affected/overwrote the Layer Height compensation made by the Slicer in the main body of the GCODE?!?

Yes, I meant G28 not G29 I have corrected that now.

I have just set my Z Offset back to the initial measured value as you suggested and it now works .... I have my 1st working print!

I use a nozzle wipe which you can see in the foreground ... when I tried this in the past you can see that the bed compensation does not seem to work and the nozzle grinds into the front of the bed. At this point when I tried this I usually stopped the print to save damaging the bed\nozzle.

This time I left it and the print in the center of the bed and the 1st layer started to bind to the surface correctly.

Thanks

I'm am now really puzzled because when I was using Marlin this is always what I did and it always worked 100% :-0

It would be unusual for the slicer to behave differently between Marlin and RepRap .... I dont know why I would not have had this problem with Marlin ... technically I should have.

2_1525528781065_heightmapPeiBedNoZoffset3.csv.txt 1_1525528781064_config.g.txt 0_1525528781064_heightmapPeiBedWithZOffset.csv.txt 2 weeks and every print fails because I cant get the nozzle to to correct distance from the bed. The duet just seems to refuse to accept the Z Offset.

CR10S + BL Touch

I have tried everything except baby stepping.

This is what I do;

1. Heat the Bed and Nozzle to my desired temperature.
   Nozzle: 200C Bed 60C (PLA on PEI Bed)
2. Perform Setting the Z Offset by using
   G28 (Home to center of the bed)
   G1 Z0
   G92 Z5
   Lowering the Nozzle util it touches the bed (I use a 0.05mm Feeler gauge then one more 0.1- Drop)
   G92 Z0
   I then do 5 x G1 Z10 & G30 S-1 and take the average.
   I then add the following to my config.g

;G31 X-40 Y-10 Z0 P25 I1 ; Set Probe Offset and Z height to 0 ready for calibration
;G31 X-40 Y-10 Z1.458 P25 I1 ; 0mm (1.458)
;G31 X-40 Y-10 Z1.278 P25 I1 ; Set Probe Offset and height for z = nozzle gap (0.18mm) for a layer height of 0.2mm
;G31 X-40 Y-10 Z1.338 P25 I1 ; Set Probe Offset and height for z = nozzle gap (0.12mm) for a layer height of 0.15mm
;G31 X-40 Y-10 Z1.378 P25 I1 ; Set Probe Offset and height for z = nozzle gap (0.08mm) for a layer height of 0.1mm

I have then tried doing mesh bed leveling leaving the offset at 0 and then setting the offset to my Desired Nozzle gap;
I have also tried setting my Z Offset to my desired nozzle gap and then doing the mesh bed leveling.

When I watch the 1st layer I can physically see the nozzle is no where near the bed surface.

Anybody any ideas what I'm doing wrong ?

The only thing I can think of is to move my BL Touch pin over to the location where nozz was set to 0 and do my G30 S-1 from there.
This would be in case over the 40mm offset between my nozzle and the BL Touch pin there was a significant deviation in the bed height.

[2_1525528705710_heightmapPeiBedNoZoffset3.csv](Uploading 100%) [1_1525528705710_config.g](Uploading 100%) [0_1525528705710_heightmapPeiBedWithZOffset.csv](Uploading 100%)

Voltage Drop Problem Solved:

Basically the PWM frequency seemed to be so low that I could see the DC LED & AC Heater LED flicker.

The solution seemed to be to change

M301 H2 P-1

to
M301 H2 B1

This is what RepRap firmware says

P Interprets a negative P term as indicating that bang-bang control should be used instead of PID (not recommended for the hot end, but OK for the bed heater).

B PID Band. Errors larger than this cause heater to be on or off.

So in essence Big Bang did not work .. but using PID did work

@dc42 Problem with the SSR Solved: My replacement SSR turned up today. After I swapped the unit out I popped the lid of the faulty unit and found that the reason both my SSR's LED Did not work when I tested them at 3v on my Power Bench ....... was because the lid had been put on back to front !!!!!!!

So when I wired the unit up the AC Mains power it actually went to the DC inputs of the SSR and the Duet DC Output went to the AC Input/Outputs of the SSR!

That pop I heard was the zener diode going when 220Volts hit it.

On the Fake SSR's they use a sticker with a corner bevel on a square plastic lid while the real SSR's have a plastic lid that has a beveled corner so you can't get the lid the wrong way around.

This faulty SSR i did not take apart, I bought 2 off Amazon but only traced out the other unit that is now working for my heater bed. Obviously they both came from the factory like that which explains why the LED did not work on both when I tested them on a bench with no AC connected.

Luckily when I put the working SSR I still have back together I put the lid on the correct way round, so If I open my Case I bet I see the LED on which wasn't the case when I tested both SSR's initially.

Ironically the new one is also a fake (bought from reprap.me).... (90% of Fotek's out there are fakes, I've not been able to buy a genuine one!).

FYI:

40DA Fakes typically have a Triac rated to 25A not 40A.
25DA Fakes typically have a Triac rated to 13A not 25A.

Now all I need to do is sort out the PWM to keep the SSR Always on at 3V or above. When I set the temp the LED Stops blinking and goes out, so ignoring the SSR, I just need to RTFM.