Posts made by Scottbg1

@Phaedrux
Thank you, sir.
I glanced over those docs before I asked this question, and I misunderstood it to mean that it was asking for a PIN number.
I didn't think about 'PSON' being the PIN name.

All is well now.
Thank you!

Greetings all.
I have not been able to print anything for several months and tonight I sat down to fire up my machine and do exactly that.
But before I did I visited this forum and seen that there had been several firmware updates since I've been away. I read back through the release notes and didn't see anything too specific that might would suggest changing the config files so I went ahead and upgraded.

I was on v3.3 and just updated to 3.4.4.
I have the Duet2 Wifi.

Now the power button for my ATX power supply has disappeared from DWC.
I read through the wiki and discovered that M80 and M81 now needs parameters set before they will work.
Specifically a 'C' parameter with a pin name to specify the power port. (if I am reading the wiki correctly)

With that, can someone point me to some documentation to help me resolve this?
I have looked through search results for the past 30 minutes and it seems no one else has had this issue, unless I have typed the right terms into the search bar.

Thanks in advance.

I actually emailed Filastruder, the store I bought it from here in the US and asked if they recommended someone and they were able to put me in touch with someone who does their warranty work.
I shipped the board off this morning.

Thanks for all the responses.

I have the v1.02 board that does not have the blade fuses. I wish I had known to look for the version of the board when I bought it.
I live in the US and I bought from a reseller here.
I guess this board was sitting on the shelf for awhile. I bought this board the summer of 2018.
If I read correctly the 1.03 was the latest and greatest by then.

I will try checking with the distributor I bought it from tomorrow and see if they can do repairs.
Unless @dc42 or someone chimes in to say it isn't worth it.

I am pretty sure I fried the driver for the fans on my Duet2 Wifi tonight.
Right before starting a print I decided to run through a bed leveling compensation and the hotend fan kept going on and off and I immediately suspected a short.

Sure enough, I discovered the solder was about to let go at the plug closest to the fan.
With everything still on and running I wanted to touch the wire to the post on the plug just to double check the fan would come on and when I did I accidentally touched the other post and shorted the wire.
I have heat shrink on both posts but there was enough showing that a strand of wire touched I guess. It actually startled me.
It arced a little and I noticed that the cooling fan on the controller board stopped spinning and a second later I smelled that dreadful smell.

You know.....that smell of burned money?

I'm not getting power from any of the plugs for the fans on the board now. Toast.
Everything else works as it should, though.

So with that, 2 questions:
Is it worth sending the board in for repair? I have had it 2 years and it has given me flawless service.

If not, and I am forced to buy another should I upgrade to the new Duet 3 board or shall I stay where I am with the Duet 2?

I have never used the v2 board to it's fullest potential. I only have 3 steppers. I have a corexy with 2 steppers on x/y and one on Z.
I only have 3 fans. HE cooling, part cooling, and controller cooling.
Would the v3 board be overkill?

And I guess one more question....
Any suggestions what I can use this old board for? I thought maybe I could use it for a laser cutter or something.

Thanks in advance.

You sir, are a scholar, a gentleman and a god among men.

I am at work right now, and I have an RPi with Arch installed on it here in my office and I just installed Klipper and DWC onto it to see if I could get it to work.
I am no longer receiving the error regarding the config section but because it's not plugged into a printer I am getting loads of other errors, but I expected that.

The acid test will be when I get home tonight and try this out on the machine connected to the printer.
Now, for which of your suggestions worked:
Per your suggestion, I started with #4 and I deleted the linked file and just moved the .py file from the downloaded git folder to the folder in /opt. Bingo!

I'll report back tonight on how it goes.

FWIW, I want to give #3 a try later down the road. I think that figuring out how to create my own PKGBUILD would be a great lesson in improving my Arch Linux kung fu.
Besides I would really like to create install procedures for installing this onto Arch/RPi and post it somewhere, because I can't be the only guy in the world that would want this over a Raspbian install. And maybe I can save somebody a headache.

A thousand thank yous to you, sir.

You've got me thinking about something and the differences in the install process between Raspbian and Arch.
Raspbian built the install package and installed it via a python script.

I have never tried to compile a package before just using the makefile in the git file downloaded from github.
I thought I was lucky when I found klipper on AUR and I built the package from that.
I read the PKGBUILD and that is what placed Klipper in the /opt folder.
I wonder if it would be worth changing the package directory in the PKGBUILD back to the user folder instead of the /opt folder?
This is over my head and I worry that I would need to change more than that than just that one line.
No where else mentions putting anything in /opt.

@wilriker said in Raspberry Pi, Arch Linux,and DWC.:

@scottbg1 OK, so this might be a stupid question but did you run ln -s with sudo?

Not a stupid question at all, and the answer is yes and no.

I did have to use sudo when I first installed and I took that into consideration that it was failing because of a permissions thing.
I did change ownership of that directory with:
sudo chown scott /opt/klipper/klippy/extras
And then I tried ln -s again without root to see if that was the case, but it wasn't and it still failed and the error about the config section continued..
I know now it was stupid but at the time I was at the mercy of where I found it installed and it seemed like a good idea at the time.

@wilriker said in Raspberry Pi, Arch Linux,and DWC.:

Just check that... wait a second...

ln -s ~/dwc2-for-klipper/web_dwc2.py ~/opt/klipper/klippy/extras/web_dwc2.py

I hope that's a typo... you prefixed the link name with a ~ creating the symlink inside the current user's home dir. That does not seem to be what you want.

Ok, here is where I might be screwing up. And now I feel even more stupid for changing that directory ownership.
I git cloned the klipper tar and the DWC.git into my user directory per the instructions. Its where they ended up on Raspbian so I thought it would work here.
I built the package for Klipper from my user dir and when it installed all those files ended up in /opt. And when I saw in the log that it pulls the config files for klipper from directories in the /opt folder I just thought thats where they were supposed to be. And in my readings, /opt is usually the place where the bulk of programs are installed to in Arch.
It confused me because on Raspbian, everything was still running from my user directory, so I just chocked it up as the Arch way. And once I was at a point I would try stupid stuff like changing directory permissions, I even deleted all those Klipper install folders from the user directory and Klipper was still running fine. So that was more proof that the /opt folder was the place to target the sym-link.

The folder with DWC was unzipped and remains in the user directory and it is just like the DWC folder we would push to the duet wifi. It just holds directories and config files.

If I did something stupid, I'll own that. But if I were to point the sym-link from the Klipper folders in the user directory to the DWC folders also in the user directory that didn't work either at first. That is why I mentioned the idea to link it to the folders in /opt since the log stated that is where it was reading all the other .py files from.

What do you recommend and I'll do it!

Thank you so much for commenting. I appreciate the help immensely!

@phaedrux said in Raspberry Pi, Arch Linux,and DWC.:

You might have better luck in the Klipper github or Klipper reddit.

As mentioned, I have already tried there and those posts are still open but responses are slow.
What little help I have received has been to re-read the install instructions, which I have done so much I just about have them memorized.

@joergs5 said in Raspberry Pi, Arch Linux,and DWC.:

@scottbg1 I would start analyzing the communication between Klipper and DWC. If you post your error logs (maybe on dropbox), this may give a first hint what could be the reason.

The communication between Klipper and DWC is the problem, and it all hinges on a .py file that has to be sym-linked from the Klipper service to the DWC installation.
Here is the only error message I am getting at the moment. It's easy to just post it here rather than linking a drop box file, but I will if you would rather see that instead.

Section dwc2_web is not a valid config section

The following is several lines in Klippers configuration file that tells Klipper where to connect to for access to DWC.

[virtual_sdcard]
path: /home/scott/sdcard

[web_dwc2]
## optional - defaulting to Klipper
printer_name: Anet A8
# optional - defaulting to 0.0.0.0
listen_adress: 0.0.0.0
# needed - use above 1024 as nonroot
listen_port: 4750
# optional defaulting to dwc2/web. Its a folder relative to your virtual sdcard.
web_path: dwc2/web

The section in the configuration [web_dwc2] is what the error message is referring to.

The directory housing the DWC stuff is located in the user folder and it has a file called web_dwc2.py. That file is to be sym-linked to the same file located in /opt/klipper/klippy/extras.

So the command to handle that would be:
ln -s ~/dwc2-for-klipper/web_dwc2.py ~/opt/klipper/klippy/extras/web_dwc2.py

The /opt directory in Arch Linux is where Klipper is installed, hence directing the sym-link to that location. In Raspbian, Klipper seems to be installed and located in the user directory. So if you follow the install directions to the letter, you are obviously placing things in the wrong spot, as far as Arch is concerned.....I think.

Ans thats my problem. I have tried to mimic the install instructions and place things where I am pretty sure they should go in Arch, but it isn't working and I get the error mentioned above. It certainly doesn't work if I install it exactly as the directions call for, which has Raspbian in mind.
I feel in my heart this is just a simple matter of I have the paths set incorrectly.
I just can't figure out exactly, what it is.

I posted this here on a whim, since it involves printer firmware and specifically something we use everyday, such as DWC.
I will try one of the Arch Linux forums next if I haven't gotten this figured out in a couple of days.

Again, thanks to whatever attention I get for this.

Hello all,

This isn't a Duet controller issue and might not be welcome here, but it is involving Duet Web Control and I hoped it would be ok to post. This entire forum has always been so generous in helping each other out on any problems I have seen folks post. And I am at my wits end and relented to post here as a last effort to fix it.

I have been tinkering around with a firmware called Klipper on my Prusa clone.
Klipper is most widely used as an add-on to Octoprint, which would of course employ Octoprint's UI to control and monitor things. This is all ran on a Raspberry Pi, plugged into the printer's controller via USB.

There is a lesser known option to eliminate Octoprint completely and use our beloved Duet Web Control as a web interface, and it's absolutely fantastic! I have it installed and running great on my RPi running Raspbian OS.
Here is an earlier discussion I started about it.
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/11169/dwc-on-my-small-prusa-clone/6

I have 2 or 3 Raspberry pi micro-computers around my house that I use as a media center on my TV, a camera pointed at my CoreXY, and one plugged into my CNC router that I use to transfer gcode to it. I love these things.
And I have them all loaded with Arch Linux rather than Raspbian. IMHO they just run better.
I am currently trying to get Klipper and DWC running on Arch on my RPi.
It's not a must as I have it running fine on Raspbian, but I like to tinker with stuff and I would like to see if I can get it going with Arch.

I have run into a brick wall right at the finish line and I was hoping there were Linux gurus here that were familiar with Arch that might could help me get the rest of the way. A guru I am not. I know just enough to be dangerous, but I feel I know enough as I have gotten this far by myself.
I have posted my problem on the Klipper and DWC-for-Klipper github sites, but support for both are weak and slow responding. The only responses I have gotten so far from there are suggestions that I re-read the install instructions and make sure I didn't miss a step. The install instructions are catered toward a Raspbian install, complete with a install script that takes most of the work out of it. Making it a complete manual install onto Arch, so reading the install instructions over and over haven't helped much.
I have the Klipper firmware installed and running properly, and it is communicating with the printer's controller.
So that isn't a problem anymore. What I am having difficulties with is getting Klipper to connect to Duet Web Control.
I either don't have a .py file sym-linked to the correct directory or the correct path set for Klipper to interface with DWC. It has to be something simple but I am stumped after scouring the internet and trying different configurations for the last 2 days.

Is there anyone who would be able to give some suggestions on how to solve it?
I won't post the errors yet as this post has already become a book to read.
But if anybody is interested I will post the errors I am getting from the Klipper service log and detail what I have already tried to fix it, if needed.

Thanks in advance for any attention I get on this.

@phaedrux said in DWC on my small Prusa Clone:

@scottbg1 can you edit the configuration from the DWC still? Or is it just for control and monitoring?

Yes sir, you can edit the configuration.
It's a little weird though.
The config file for Klipper is the only file there, whereas there are several for the Duet like Bed.g, HomeAll.g, etc.

But it acts just as it does with the Duet. If you change something, it'll reboot the firmware to reset.

@danal said in DWC on my small Prusa Clone:

Interesting, I did not realize that Klipper allows DWC. I still have some RAMPS board based printers, might try Klipper.

Hmmm...

I highly recommend Klipper, especially if you are handy with a raspberry pi.
The configuration codes for Klipper are more like MS DOS than the g-code you might be used to with RepRap.
For instance, if you were to set the acceleration rate in the config files for Reprap with this:

M201 X4000 Y4000 Z100 E4000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)

You would set it in Klipper with this:
max_accel: 4000
max_z_accel: 100

It takes a little getting used to, and the support group doesn't use mainstream resources like a forum like this.
They use the Git Hub site to discuss problems, and though I haven't joined it they have a group on Discord for general discussions.

It still doesn't compare to the Duet and the overwhelming support that it receives here, IMHO.
But it beats the heck out of Marlin for my little prusa clone, and I'll never go back as long as Klipper remains alive and well.

It's worth mentioning that the screen shot of DWC I posted is 1 version of 2 available for Klipper, that obviously looks exactly like what we use for the Duet. But since posting that shot I have discovered that version is pretty buggy and I have opted to use the newer version which has the same exact function but just with a little different UI that doesn't feel quite as polished. I hated that the older version was buggy but the newer is growing on me for use with my Prusa Clone.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3j0mxtdesf7j2os/DWC2.jpg?dl=0

@zapta said in Polycarbonate and line width:

@scottbg1 said in Polycarbonate and line width:

I use Simplify 3D and it only allows to change the width on the first layer.

Try the Extruder tab

Well duh!!

With me, it's generally the simplest things are overlooked.
Ask my girlfriend.

Thank you!

My life is now complete. I now have DWC for my Prusa Clone.
I had been using Octoprint but it was just always clunky to me after using DWC on my larger CoreXY with a Duet Wifi.
I stumbled upon a firmware called Klipper that allows either Octopi or DWC as a web interface.

I can't even describe the joy I am feeling right now!

EDIT: I tried posting a screenshot but it will not load.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/675dvqdzsbmq2v6/Anet DWC.jpg?dl=0

@nophead said in Polycarbonate and line width:

Nozzle diameter isn't even a parameter in the slicer I use. It only really affects the range of line width / layer height combinations that will work. It doesn't enter into any of the extrusion calculations.

This.
I use Simplify 3D and it only allows to change the width on the first layer.
Cura allows for line width changes though.

I guess I need to brush up on my Cura skills.

I have been trying to perfect my printing of polycarbonate. I am getting pretty decent results but I found myself searching for tips and tricks today and I came upon this Reddit discussion on the subject and it's a little bit fantastic and before I started changing my slicer settings and wasting PC filament for nothing, I wanted to get an opinion here.

The OP posted a photo of a beautifully printed part made of Polycarbonate.
He stated that he discovered PC printed best when he changed the line width in his slicer to .9mm while using a .4 nozzle.
He stated the strength also improved by a great margin by doing this.

Here is a link to the discussion:
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/8edmdc/perfect_polycarbonate_prints_5x_nozzle_diameter/

Thoughts anyone?

Hi Phaedrux. I was hoping you'd chime in.

Thanks for the info on the heating pad. I will look into finding a thicker aluminum plate.

My bed and Hotend are PID tuned.

Coincidentally, the bed was at priting temperature well over an hour before I began the print where I discovered the warping. I had installed a new nozzle in my hotend to prepare for the long print I mentioned. I started the heating process as I began breaking the hotend down and putting it back together, and then it was still hot while I re-calibrated my nozzle height and ran the Mesh Bed Calibration. Add in my girlfriend demanding my undivided attention for several minutes while she vented about an inept co-worker who is ruining her life, and it certainly was at temperature quite some time before printing.

Greetings all!

I am not a metallurgist at all, but I do understand that metal, especially aluminum will warp a bit when heated and cooled.

With that, I have a CoreXY with an aluminum 300mm x 300mm heated bed that is 3mm thick.
I have a 3mm sheet of glass that rests on top that I use as my build surface.
Recently I have been on a campaign to tweak my machine to squeeze out a bit more quality out of my prints to try and get the outside perimeter walls as seamless as possible. One thing I am noticing is that when printing a big model, that is several hours to print, the first few hours I am getting the outside finish that I desire, but then as the print progresses over the next couple of hours, I am seeing inconsistencies in the layers on the Z axis. Some thin and some bulging. I chocked it up at first to the filament diameter changing through the roll. But I now notice there is a gap that appears between the glass build plate and the heat bed on one corner, that I am positive is not there before I start printing, as I make sure all 4 corners are seated properly after re-installing after a cleaning it so to get an accurate measurement when I create a Mesh Grid Height Map.

I know the terrain of the bed changes from when it's cold to when it's up to print temperature, but should it flex and change shape over the course of a print, even though the temp stays rock solid throughout it all?
The gap that develops gets to almost a millimeter at times, and that is obviously what I am seeing on my prints.
It's worth noting that I have the heat bed secured in all 4 corners only. I never have a need to heat the bed more than 50C.

I am thinking about redesigning the build plate and doing away with the aluminum bed altogether.
My idea is coming off some money and investing in one of those rubber heating mats and attach it straight to the glass.

Does anyone have any thoughts on the bed warping and/or my new bed design? Or maybe another/better option?

Thanks in advance.

@phaedrux said in Can't connect to DWC.:

Glad it's working now.

It's always a good idea to update to the full release if you're testing release candidates anyway.

Noted.
I hadn't intended on keeping a RC as a daily driver but it was working fine and I didn't think about it.

You sir, are a scholar and a gentleman. That did the trick.
I guess something was corrupted.

I could've tried installing the latest before I asked, since I was suspecting that was the fix anyway, huh?
But maybe someone who has the same issue will stumble across this.

Thanks a million!