Posts made by rbjam83

@mrehorstdmd That looks scary and is exactly what I'm trying to avoid.
Thanks for the wiring diagram.

@Phaedrux @bearer Thanks! I hadn't thought of something so simple.
I'll look into a thermal cut off switch and a thermal fuse.

So I just bought a silicone heater (AC powered) for the printer I'm building and I'm new to solid state relays.
On the datasheet of my particular SSR (Omron G3NA-210B) I saw that the most common failure mode for the SSR is in closed circuit, which means that if the thing fails there is no way the Duet can turn it off to prevent a thermal runaway.
What can I do to kill power to the printer if the SSR fails?

@niksteel I'm building a Railcore myself and while I don't intent to use the halo, I believe it can be enclosed. Check this link out: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3569321

The command you are looking for is M376: set bed compensation taper.

Interesting idea to link the steel rods to the motor shafts. As timothyz pointed out, bearings could become an issue. However, you could modify the couplers so that they have a regular radial bearing on the side that the couplers connect to the engine shaft and fix the coupler body to the motor body. This will eliminate the rotation of the steel guide rods, making them into "normal" linear moving rods only.

@dc42 It was the X and Y motors. The extruder motor was ok, it is also a different motor (its the slim 0.9 deg sold by E3D).

@dc42 The full spec of the motors are as follows:
Steps / mm: 200
Rated Voltage: 3.4 V
Rated Current: 1700 mA
Phase Resistance: 2 ohms
Inductance: 3 mH
Holding Torque: 40 N

Initially I was using 800mA when the issue fist presented. I then increased it to 1000mA to no effect. It was only when I went to 1400mA that the texture disappeared.

@3dpmicro I know. And I did increase the current from 800mA to 1000mA and got no improvement. As I said, I had the wrong mind set about this. I was doing incremental changes when I should have gone bigger.

@phaedrux FINALLY!!
It was the motor current that was too low.
I never would have guessed it, since I was operating on the "but I print slow" mind set.

Thanks everybody! It really was quite the learning experience for me.

Now I can go on with the rest of the tweaks...

@phaedrux I bought the Titan just three weeks ago from Filastruder. I'ts already from the new batch and the bearings are fine.

@timothyz Just printed two more cubes, in one X and Y were set to x8 microstepping without interpolation, and on the other, I did the same with the extruder motor. Nothing. No change.
But I'm reading other threads about more in depth settings of the stepper drivers. I'll try some of those later.

@doctrucker I'm starting to think this is some combination of stepper motor/driver setting issue.
The Titan seems to be fine.

@3dpmicro Just did the extrusion test, and is was super smooth. So I guess I can check the extruder off the list then.

I just tried a different set of pulleys, both 20 and 16 tooth on X and Y, and again no difference.
I already did a print in vase mode, it's showing equally in x and y. So equally in fact that I'm thinking the stepper drivers just don't "like" my axis motors for some reason.
This is my first time on TMC drivers. Is there any thing else to configure in them besides microstepping and interpolation? I've got a feeling I'm missing something...

@3dpmicro I printed a vase in spiral mode and I don't see much improvement to be honest, here are some pics:

@benkay Yes, I did that. Swapped my 0.9 deg for a 1.8 and still the same. Also disabled interpolation on the stepper drivers, no difference.

@3dpmicro I've tried under extruding till I saw holes on top layers (at 0.89 extrusion) and again, no difference on the perimeters.

@doctrucker I'm printing PLA, with a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.45mm track width, 190ºC temp, 0.2 layer height.
I have tried temperatures between 170ºC and 200ºC with no difference.

Also, I got pretty excited about disabling mesh bed compensation, but it did nothing...

The extruder is a Titan Aero.
Yes, I've calibrated it, and yes, the filament goes smoothly in and out when I release the idler.
I've just tried a different more powerfull motor on the extruder and still the same.

I'll do the under extruding test next...

@3dpmicro Yes. I've since reduced my extrusion to 0.98 and lower the temperatures a bit. The overall "moire like" pattern didn't change though.