Posts made by RaymondS

Thanks for all the feedback.

After the feedback, I decide to continue with 1.8 degrees motors. Will play with 0.9 later once I have more experience (not too expensive)

Voron Configurator actually recommends as part of the BOM to go with 2A. Ratrig have a 2.5A option only in thier configurator even though you have selected the DUET 3 Mini5+. 2.5A Motors I think is a little high demand from 2209 based on what I now understand.

The 1.68 seems like a safe move but might not be so great on the 500 x 500 size machine I plane to build.

So I will go down the middle with this for now and run 2A motors somewhere in the 1.4-1.7A range and see how it goes. If needed I will add small heatsinks to the drivers (already have a fan blowing over them. Pitty there is now temp sensor in them).

Good to see all the support here. Made the right choice to go with DUET and loving the experience. Hopefully will build the bigger printer soon.

Any opinions on mixing the motors as mentioned above?

@t3p3tony

Thanks for the reply and advice.

Running the 2A stepper at 80% is 1.6A and so will most likely work. Both Voron and RatRig go with 2A on the Duet, but they mostly focused on speed and so recommend 1.8 degrees

Option 1: I should just stick to this and only change later to 0.9 degrees if I still see the need later.

Option 2: Maybe by 2 of each and play. If I need speed I can place 1.8 on X & Y and the 0.9 on Z (Dual) as Z does not need much speed. (I think the Torque on both is overkill for what I do.) Then swap at a stage and see if there is a difference.

So the last question would be, would it make a difference if on Z is on 0.9 (dual motors) and "X & Y" is on 1.8 degrees? (Or visa versa?)

Hi All,

Please advise a newbie here. Sorry for the long post but normally people ask more questions and so I hope I have given enough intent as to why my decision and also what I need to know.

I have taken my lessor spec'd "Creality CR-10S PRO V2" and upgraded it slightly (ok...maybe slightly is a lie because the only thing left of creality is the Frame, Power supply, Stepper Motor's and the sticker on the front..... )

What I have changed is:
New Duet 3 Mini5+
Humera
All rollers removed and now using linear rails (X, Y and Z)
Added strengthening to the frame
Replaced all fans
New screwthread rods and guides (old ones had a slight bend)
Backlash nuts
Distribution boards (for ribbon cable)
Drag chain
FYSETC-Mini-12864-Panel (just to have limited control)
Many new printed parts to hold everything changed

I have been having issues with the stepper motors and have changed Amperage, Jerk, Acceleration, etc... and have decided that I have already overcommitted on the project and so replacing the stepper motors is a small price to pay at this stage to have peace of mind.

The Z Motors are Creality's 42-34 which is supposed to be 1.5A rated but anything above 0.7A and the motors are untouchable from a heat perspective. At 1A they measure about 90 degrees Celcius on a small 10 minute print job.

The X & Y are Creality's 42-40 which when measuring the travel are erratic. With 15, 20, 22, 40mm movements forward and back again mostly landing up in the right positions... but 10, 30 & 50mm are erratic and can be out but 0.04-0.12mm per movement on any of the distance tests (as I mentioned, I have set amps all the way from 0.8 to 1.5 amps with different results all the time).

Not worried about the cost now, I want to replace all 4 motors (Z is dual). I am not really into speed but more into quality. So my dilemma of which motors to go with is a challenge (Living in the UAE, I need to import and need to take this into consideration)

Some points I read:
Duet 3 Mini5+ has TMC 2209 and so max 2A
Duet site says stick to 1.8 instead of 0.9 unless delta printer

I am planning to build a Voron or Ratrig later next year and so could reuse a lot of my investment here.

My thoughts are to go with 0.9 motors but only 1.68A rated as to not push the drivers to the limit. Is this a silly decision?

0.9 vs 1.8? Considering I am not in it for speed and the power supply is 24V
1.68A vs 2A? I know we only run amperage at about 85% and so 2A motor could be run at 1.7A which is below driver amp rating

Any opinions on the above?

These are the options I am looking at from stepperonline:
0.9:
Option 1
Manufacturer Part Number: 17HM19-1684S
Motor Type: Bipolar Stepper
Step Angle: 0.9 deg
Holding Torque: 44Ncm(62.3oz.in)
Rated Current/phase: 1.68A
Voltage: 2.8V
Phase Resistance: 1.65ohms
Inductance: 4.1mH ± 20%(1KHz)

Option 2
Manufacturer Part Number: 17HM19-2004S
Motor Type: Bipolar Stepper
Step Angle: 0.9 deg
Holding Torque: 46Ncm(65.1oz.in)
Rated Current/phase: 2.0A
Voltage: 2.9V
Phase Resistance: 1.45ohms
Inductance: 4.0mH ± 20%(1KHz)

1.8:
Option 3
Manufacturer Part Number: 17HS19-1684S1
Motor Type: Bipolar Stepper
Step Angle: 1.8 deg
Holding Torque: 45Ncm(64oz.in)
Rated Current/phase: 1.68A
Voltage: 2.8V
Phase Resistance: 1.65ohms
Inductance: 2.8mH ± 20%(1KHz)

Option 4
Manufacturer Part Number: 17HS16-2004S1
Motor Type: Bipolar Stepper
Step Angle: 1.8 deg
Holding Torque: 45Ncm(64oz.in)
Rated Current/phase: 2A
Voltage: 2.2V
Phase Resistance: 1.1ohms
Inductance: 2.6mH ± 20%(1KHz)

All thoughts on these stepper motors welcome.

Hope someone can help

@engikeneer Thanks for the input. Appreciated.

I did not think the acceleration and jerk would affect the absolute positioning of the Z, only the quality of the filament had been layed down in a specific movement. So expected 100% same movement distance all the time. All settings for M566 and M201 are standard (as per the online configuration tool - don't recall changing anything here). As for M203, I did up the max speeds but did not know this could change the absolute position, I will reduce this again and see what happens.

As for grub screws, I have triple checked this including alignment (making sure of no binding). This was my initial thought of the problem.

I think the next item post slowing down max speed is to remove the backlash nuts and run another set of tests. Going to follow a very slow and iterative change now so that I can see what is causing which issue (have another but first trying to get E-Steps dialed in correctly).

I have noticed that when changing direction (down to up and also up to down movements), that within the first 1mm you always seem to lose +/- 0.20. Is this normal?

; Drives
M569 P0.0 S0                                 ; physical drive 0.0 goes backwards
M569 P0.1 S0                                 ; physical drive 0.1 goes backwards
M569 P0.2 S1                                 ; physical drive 0.2 goes backwards
M569 P0.3 S1                                 ; physical drive 0.3 goes backwards
M569 P0.4 S0                                 ; physical drive 0.4 goes backwards
M584 X0.0 Y0.1 Z0.2:0.3 E0.4                 ; set drive mapping
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1                      ; configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80.15 Y80.15 Z400.00 E387.10            ; set steps per mm
M566 X900.00 Y900.00 Z60.00 E120.00          ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X16000.00 Y16000.00 Z6000.00 E1200.00   ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z20.00 E250.00          ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X800 Y800 Z1000 E800 I30                ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30                                      ; Set idle timeout

@pcr
Made the changes, still not consistent. Motors are very hot on the touch.

But think I will replace the lead screws first as I think this Teflon coat could possibly be a problem in that I don't know if it is consistent (I bent the originals by mistake and ordered these) I don't have confidence in them as I had to remove some of the coatings just to get them into the coupler... (as you can see in the pic) So coating might also not be consistent up to the top of the screw.

Even though the picture might make the spacing look wrong, the spacing is correct and doesn't bind when moving up or down. But they are tighter through the backlash nuts than in comparison with the normal lead screw.

Thanks for the help. But think I should just go back.... Too many parts upgraded in a single move makes it hard to troubleshoot.

@pcr

Will try again at 1000, but last time it was this high I could fry eggs on it...

Will make correction on M584 as well. Thanks

@pcr

config.g

Hope I am doing this correctly

Hi All,

VID_20211026_225032.mp4

Just upgraded my CR-10S Pro v2 with the Duet 3 mini 5+ and linear rails. So, new to the Duet game.

My Z movement is not consistent and cannot figure out why. New lead Screws, backlash Nuts, everything is tight.

https://youtu.be/sXt5mdn_cKc (Just in case video is not viewable)

Any suggestions as to where to start looking